The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Made in California · May 16, 2010

Originally Posted by GucciMonster

Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
- Kiton
- Oxxford
-Thom Browne
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli (after seen and tried it for the first time, indeed one of the best)
- Luigi Borrelli
- RLPL (not suit maker, a designer brand)
- Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
- St Andrew
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Isaia
- D'Avenza
- Sartoria Castangia

Very Good[****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).
- Belvest
--Lanvin
-Jil Sander tailor made
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Canali Milano
- (most of Raffaelle Caruso) eg. Sartoria Parma / RL Black Label / RL Signature
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale, the custom made one, IIRC "Abito Privato", excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Zegna Couture
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage

Good[***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).
- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Corneliani
- Canali
- K by Canali
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Samuelsohn
- Paul Smith Mainline (not a suit maker, designer brand - fully canvassed)
- Faconnable Tailleur (also designer brand)
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Etro / Boglioli
- Giorgio Armani (black label)

Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
- Cantarelli
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Paul Smith London (not a suit maker, designer brand - half canvassed)
- H. Freemann
- Benjamin Sartorial
- Hickey Freeman LTD (Half Canvas)
- hickey
- Hackett
- J Crew
- Z-Zegna

Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre)
- Hugo Boss
- Marco Valentino (half canvas) - surprising but I found the VFM is great
- Joseph Abboud
- J. Press
- H&M

I'm surprised to see J Crew get this high on your list after the review titled "My review of J Crew suits (they suck)" haha

East Oakland · May 16, 2010

Originally Posted by Made in California

I'm surprised to see J Crew get this high on your list after the review titled "My review of J Crew suits (they suck)" haha

J Crew shouldn't be on the list at all, nor should H&M -- about two thirds of the way through the thread, everything below the level of mediocre was deleted, which is where these items belong.

Really would be better if this thread just quietly died, though.

sho'nuff · May 16, 2010

i am always interested in finding the triumvirate in any category.

for RTW suits, i'd say

brioni
rlpl
kiton

imageWIS · May 16, 2010

Originally Posted by East Oakland

J Crew shouldn't be on the list at all, nor should H&M -- about two thirds of the way through the thread, everything below the level of mediocre was deleted, which is where these items belong.

Really would be better if this thread just quietly died, though.

I own a J. Crew suit and sports coat, both use Loro Piana cloth. Are they as well made as my Chester Barrie, Zegna Napoli Couture, Corneliani, etc... garments? No. But on sale they make an excellent beater suit.

dah328 · May 16, 2010

Originally Posted by East Oakland

J Crew shouldn't be on the list at all, nor should H&M -- about two thirds of the way through the thread, everything below the level of mediocre was deleted, which is where these items belong.

Really would be better if this thread just quietly died, though.
+1. This is a quality ranking, not a value ranking. If it were the latter, we'd need to add Target's Merona line in there because at $69 for a full suit on sale, how could you go wrong?

SpallaCamiccia · May 16, 2010

I would like to see a BAD section.

Zara

Dior Homme

Armani ( other than black label )

D & G

Gucci

Prada

And most of the designer brands

Made in California · May 16, 2010

Originally Posted by SpallaCamiccia

I would like to see a BAD section.

Zara

Dior Homme

Armani ( other than black label )

D & G

Gucci

And most of the designer brands

Yeah, because these are suits that I am constantly seeing that look nice, but are of dubious quality and I'd like to see if for $500, am I getting my money's worth?

Why do you guys want this thread to die??

bearsfan172 · May 16, 2010

Yeah where would we place a brand like Prada on this list?

OttoSkadelig · May 16, 2010

Originally Posted by bearsfan172

Yeah where would we place a brand like Prada on this list?

this "all designer suits suck" approach is simplistic and ill-advised.

many designers outsource their suit manufacture to suit-makers that are fairly high up on the list.

i have a prada suit that is superbly constructed.

ChicagoRon · May 16, 2010

Originally Posted by OttoSkadelig

this "all designer suits suck" approach is simplistic and ill-advised. many designers outsource their suit manufacture to suit-makers that are fairly high up on the list. i have a prada suit that is superbly constructed.
That is why I think you see Paul Smith, RL, Zegna, and Etro up there. I think with Prada you will find significantly less consistency. If you don't have an eye for the quality or can't identify the maker using tags, YMMV where as RL and PS tend to be much more consistent using the same makers over and over with similar standards.

bearsfan172 · May 17, 2010

Yeah I've definately noticed that about Prada's suits, their consistancy is very inconsistant. (HA). What do you mean about identifying label tags to see who actually made it? Could you expand on that?

And regardless of quality... I've found that the fit of most "designer" brands, tends to be quite superb. Particularly for a slimmer guy

intent · May 17, 2010

What's with the Zegna hate, even at the Couture XXX level?

ChicagoRon · May 17, 2010

Originally Posted by bearsfan172

Yeah I've definately noticed that about Prada's suits, their consistancy is very inconsistant. (HA). What do you mean about identifying label tags to see who actually made it? Could you expand on that? And regardless of quality... I've found that the fit of most "designer" brands, tends to be quite superb. Particularly for a slimmer guy
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=24109

clintonf · May 17, 2010

Originally Posted by OttoSkadelig

this "all designer suits suck" approach is simplistic and ill-advised.

many designers outsource their suit manufacture to suit-makers that are fairly high up on the list.

i have a prada suit that is superbly constructed.

+1 In addition to what's said, I wouldn't write the "designer brands" off. I've just reminded myself that some of the Prada suits and SC's have been made by Belvest. I cannot comment whether this is still the case. However, owing a few Belvest items, I'm very pleased with the construction and quality and I would be very surprised if a Prada branded Belvest would be that different the mainline Belvest.

Clint

clintonf · May 17, 2010

Originally Posted by intent

What's with the Zegna hate, even at the Couture XXX level?

I don't know why there isn't much love for Zegna (I'm sure that there are many reasons), but to my mind, they make a good SC/suit, especially if you can get them on discount and in one of their better fabrics.

So, I, at least, will always have a soft spot for Zegna.

Clint

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