Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

dah328 · May 12, 2010

Originally Posted by kgmessier

What are the differences between saddle and spectator shoes?
Both are two-tone shoes but saddle shoes have a band running across the middle of the instep whereas spectators usually have the alternate color on the toe, heel counter, and laces. If you google both, you will easily see what I am describing.

Master-Classter · May 12, 2010

Originally Posted by JesseJB

What can I do to keep my shirt from gaping open above the belt line between buttons when I sit? Its gross.
it's to do with the button placement and width. ever notice how some shirts have the second button rather high, or rather low? so some shirts have the buttons I guess in your case just placed right in the wrong spot. Does that happen with all shirts?
as to what to do... Keep your pants up high, when you sit put your hands in your pockets and pull your shirt in so it lays flat. Might also be worse when the shirt's crispy. I also assume you don't wear undershirts?

Originally Posted by kgmessier

My leg hair goes down to my ankle bone. For those who wear shoes without socks during the warmer months, are you shaving off some hair?
I give mine a light trim with an electric set on # 3 or something, plus a little bit of shaving just around the bottom. I also shave my feed+toe hair, but that's a whole nother thing.

Originally Posted by lpresq

What color/style of trousers would pair best with this SC? Thanks
Pants - I say navy to pick up the tie color, otherwise dark chocolate brown.

enarchay · May 13, 2010

Originally Posted by enarchay

At what stores (both non-online and online) do you guys recommend buying budget ties? What brands should I look out for?

To add a little more detail...

I'm going to a college banquet where I need to dress up a little bit (khakis, button-down, blazer should be fine). I bought the following shirt, and I plan to wear tan khakis and my navy blazer. I need to get a tie, and while I don't want to get junk, I don't need anything extremely high quality either; I won't be wearing it again for quite some time. I picked a pronto-uomo tie (it looks pretty close to this one) at men's wearhouse (even though I've heard that MW is typically ****). Do you think this would work for my purposes in terms of quality and color/match-ability?

Would you recommend something else instead? I have until Thursday to get something else instead (so take into consideration shipping time).

Thanks.

kinch · May 13, 2010

NYC people:

I'm moving into the city in a few weeks (the Village, to be precise) and I need to find a tailor that can make some pretty major alterations to suit trousers. They're just way too baggy for me, in the top block and legs, so I'm wondering if I could get some recommendations on some competent tailors that could handle this.

(I'm aware I could just go onto Yelp and find well reviewed tailors, but I'm more interested in SF's opinion.)

dah328 · May 13, 2010

Originally Posted by kinch

NYC people:

I'm moving into the city in a few weeks (the Village, to be precise) and I need to find a tailor that can make some pretty major alterations to suit trousers. They're just way too baggy for me, in the top block and legs, so I'm wondering if I could get some recommendations on some competent tailors that could handle this.

(I'm aware I could just go onto Yelp and find well reviewed tailors, but I'm more interested in SF's opinion.)
Search for the "Hopefully definitive thread on NYC tailors" in the Men's Clothing forum. There's tons of info in it.

kgmessier · May 13, 2010

I see folks in the WAYWRT thread with 2" trouser cuffs. I thought the general rule was something closer to 1-3/4". Is the two-inch cuff style a SF-related one? Just curious.

- Keith

D Yizz · May 13, 2010

How long is "too long" for a jacket? Somewhere I read that you should be able to wrap your fingers around the lower hem. I came upon a beautiful linen suit, with a patch pocket jacket I could match with other pants and jeans. However, when I look in the mirror, I'm in doubt, although I can wrap my fingers around the hem, but it goes past the crotch area and in the rear, way beyond my buttocks. I'm only 5'3" but with an athletic wide shoulder body. The jacket fits perfectly otherwise, except of course, I have to adjust the arms length. The shape and symmetry olf the jackets looks something like this:

dah328 · May 13, 2010

Originally Posted by D Yizz

How long is "too long" for a jacket? Somewhere I read that you should be able to wrap your fingers around the lower hem. I came upon a beautiful linen suit, with a patch pocket jacket I could match with other pants and jeans. However, when I look in the mirror, I'm in doubt, although I can wrap my fingers around the hem, but it goes past the crotch area and in the rear, way beyond my buttocks. I'm only 5'3" but with an athletic wide shoulder body. The jacket fits perfectly otherwise, except of course, I have to adjust the arms length.
It's really a question of proportions and the guideline about being able to curl your fingers over the hem is just a guideline. If you're short, the proportions are even more important. I would err on the side of short rather than long because a long jacket really cuts you in half.

minnesnowman · May 13, 2010

What outfits could be created using a vintage suede satin-back vest like this one?

Mine is colored camel so coordination is a bit trickier. I was thinking of a plaid shirt and dark jeans, but I'm looking for any and all ideas. Pictorial inspiration would be nice. Thanks!

D Yizz · May 13, 2010

Originally Posted by dah328

It's really a question of proportions and the guideline about being able to curl your fingers over the hem is just a guideline. If you're short, the proportions are even more important. I would err on the side of short rather than long because a long jacket really cuts you in half.
Thank you. It is a nightmare for me to find appropriately proportioned and good looking OTR suits. Yes, I know it is time for mtm and I'm working on it.

onix · May 13, 2010

Originally Posted by kgmessier

I see folks in the WAYWRT thread with 2" trouser cuffs. I thought the general rule was something closer to 1-3/4". Is the two-inch cuff style a SF-related one? Just curious.

- Keith

The 2" cuff rule is from SF. It's a bit excessive.

Originally Posted by D Yizz

How long is "too long" for a jacket? Somewhere I read that you should be able to wrap your fingers around the lower hem. I came upon a beautiful linen suit, with a patch pocket jacket I could match with other pants and jeans. However, when I look in the mirror, I'm in doubt, although I can wrap my fingers around the hem, but it goes past the crotch area and in the rear, way beyond my buttocks. I'm only 5'3" but with an athletic wide shoulder body. The jacket fits perfectly otherwise, except of course, I have to adjust the arms length.

There are several rules like you just said. However, they work for the general assumption of body proportion. For your problem, it's most likely that you have either slightly longer arms or slightly shorter back. It's normal, don't worry about it.

enarchay · May 13, 2010

Originally Posted by enarchay

To add a little more detail...

I'm going to a college banquet where I need to dress up a little bit (khakis, button-down, blazer should be fine). I bought the following shirt, and I plan to wear tan khakis and my navy blazer. I need to get a tie, and while I don't want to get junk, I don't need anything extremely high quality either; I won't be wearing it again for quite some time. I picked a pronto-uomo tie (it looks pretty close to this one) at men's wearhouse (even though I've heard that MW is typically ****). Do you think this would work for my purposes in terms of quality and color/match-ability?

Would you recommend something else instead? I have until Thursday to get something else instead (so take into consideration shipping time).

Thanks.

Anyone?

EZETHATSME · May 13, 2010

Originally Posted by enarchay

Anyone?

That looks like a good combo to me, I'd wear it! Even if the quality is not so great on the tie, it's fine for your purpose. Should look great with the blazer and pants you mentioned. Enjoy.

EZ

imschatz · May 13, 2010

When buying a trench coat, do you get your normal suit jacket size, or do you add an inch or so for space to wear stuff under it?

Estilofino · May 13, 2010

The word drop normally indicates the size of the trousers on a suit, for example there could be a drop 6 or 8, which means that either 6 or 8 inches smaller than the suit size:
So for a size 40R suit, with drop 6, the pants will be size 34.

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