The Rubinacci Thread.

pabloj · May 8, 2010

Still don't get why short people would wear a db suit ...

Xiaogou · May 8, 2010

Originally Posted by pabloj

Still don't get why short people would wear a db suit ...

Nowhere near as bad as a short person having 2" cuffs on their trousers.

The_Foxx · May 8, 2010

this comparison makes little sense to me-- clearly, the tailor constructed two very different sets of shoulders for these suits. Whnay's suit has almost a roped effect, while Matt's were done very soft (and likely had considerable break-in time, after repeated wearings). As far as a relationship of height to wearing a 6x2 double breasted suit, seems like bespoke means you are not really limited to a certain style for your shape/ proportion if it is made just for you! didn't many of the very short brazilian diplomats wear bespoke suits well?

I'd also disagree with your views of body types, but to each his own perspective.

Originally Posted by username79

This tailor does not appear to adjust his cut based on body type. Reminds me of Ambrosi, who appears to like big hips and tiny cuffs on anyone, be it midget or circus clown. Your suit looks great on you because you are tall, thin, fit, and have good posture. The suit of the original poster does not fit well because he is short, rotund, and has posture issues. Had the tailor adjusted his cut for the original's body type, his suit would look far better.

A great example of how one style fits two people vastly differently, with a stark contrast in end result.

EnglishLapel · May 8, 2010

Originally Posted by username79

This tailor does not appear to adjust his cut based on body type. Reminds me of Ambrosi, who appears to like big hips and tiny cuffs on anyone, be it midget or circus clown. Your suit looks great on you because you are tall, thin, fit, and have good posture. The suit of the original poster does not fit well because he is short, rotund, and has posture issues. Had the tailor adjusted his cut for the original's body type, his suit would look far better.

A great example of how one style fits two people vastly differently, with a stark contrast in end result.

This is such bullshit 79, Foxx is right shoulders look totally different and IMO both look great. What's your problem? It's called a HOUSE STYLE, however one can clearly see that the jackets look quite different. You love to criticise...

username79 · May 8, 2010

Originally Posted by EnglishLapel

This is such bullshit 79, Foxx is right shoulders look totally different and IMO both look great. What's your problem? It's called a HOUSE STYLE, however one can clearly see that the jackets look quite different. You love to criticise...
You guys blind? The shoulder detail is nearly identical. Change the contrast on your screens and you will see the detail in Iammatt's besides the choice in roping. Besides slight differences in shoulder the jackets are identical. And wouldn't a "HOUSE STYLE" that is not complementary to the wearer be a bad thing? Do you honestly think the above wearer has a suit that works for him? You love to fellate.

EnglishLapel · May 8, 2010

Originally Posted by username79

You guys blind? The shoulder detail is nearly identical. Change the contrast on your screens and you will see the detail in Iammatt's besides the choice in roping. Besides slight differences in shoulder the jackets are identical. And wouldn't a "HOUSE STYLE" that is not complementary to the wearer be a bad thing? Do you honestly think the above wearer has a suit that works for him? You love to fellate.

Yeah I do think it works for him and im not praising for the sake of praise either. Outline why you think it doesn't work for him.

EnglishLapel · May 8, 2010

Oh just saw that you did say why you didn't think it worked for him. However I wouldnt say that whnay. is "rotund". Secondly I don't see how this cut doesn't work for the shorter man.

Master Shake · May 8, 2010

I have to say that I prefer Bill's DB suit. It just looks more elegant to me. Also, I never understood why people are convinced that short people cannot wear DB suits.

apropos · May 8, 2010

Originally Posted by username79

You guys blind? The shoulder detail is nearly identical. Change the contrast on your screens and you will see the detail in Iammatt's besides the choice in roping. Besides slight differences in shoulder the jackets are identical. And wouldn't a "HOUSE STYLE" that is not complementary to the wearer be a bad thing? Do you honestly think the above wearer has a suit that works for him? You love to fellate.
Wow. Every shoulder detail 'nearly identical' except... for the presence of roping?

I guess the RLBL shoulder is identical to the A&S shoulder... except for roping of course!

Anyway, you're kinda wrong (blind?).

For starters, iammatt's shoulder appears to be more extended than whnay's. Look at the angle formed between the shoulder and the outside of the sleeve. Even taking into account the different slope of their shoulders, compare whnay's R shoulder (L on your screen) with iammatt's R shoulder (L on your screen). Big difference, despite the relative closeness in shoulder angle.

And TBH, that doesn't even look like roping - i.e. there doesn't appear to be any wadding in it - just a bit of con rollino. Does Rubinacci even do roped shoulders in the first place?

George · May 9, 2010

Originally Posted by apropos

Wow. Every shoulder detail 'nearly identical' except... for the presence of roping? I guess the RLBL shoulder is identical to the A&S shoulder... except for roping of course! Anyway, you're kinda wrong (blind?). For starters, iammatt's shoulder appears to be more extended than whnay's. Look at the angle formed between the shoulder and the outside of the sleeve. Even taking into account, so in that the different slope of their shoulders, compare whnay's R shoulder (L on your screen) with iammatt's R shoulder (L on your screen). Big difference, despite the relative closeness in shoulder angle. And TBH, that doesn't even look like roping - i.e. there doesn't appear to be any wadding in it - just a bit of con rollino. Does Rubinacci even do roped shoulders in the first place?

The shoulders on both Iammatt's and WHnay look to be both unpadded so in that sense I think they are the same shoulder treatment. Con Rollino is roped.

apropos · May 9, 2010

Originally Posted by George

Con Rollino is roped.
'Roping' implies the deliberate insertion of wadding into the sleevehead to raise a 'rim' around the sleevehead. Con rollino is just the a closed seam + allowance inside sitting in a way that resembles roping, but isn't. It is also usually a little more subtle than deliberately roped shoulders.

George · May 9, 2010

Originally Posted by apropos

'Roping' implies the deliberate insertion of wadding into the sleevehead to raise a 'rim' around the sleevehead. Con rollino is just the a closed seam + allowance inside sitting in a way that resembles roping, but isn't. It is also usually a little more subtle than deliberately roped shoulders.
My understanding of roping is that it's a term to describe that rolled effect that you see at the sleeve head which is independent of the way it is constructed. The French have another term for it, derived from the word cigarette IIRC. Not that any of this matters by the way.

apropos · May 9, 2010

Fair enough, I guess my understanding leans a little towards the technical side.

Re: the cigarette thing, I think the oft-repeated saying is that the height of the roping should not exceed the thickness of a cigarette. Or something along those lines. Either way, it's a concept that Sartoria Sciamat appear to have taken and run away with.

George · May 9, 2010

Originally Posted by apropos

Fair enough, I guess my understanding leans a little towards the technical side.

Re: the cigarette thing, I think the oft-repeated saying is that the height of the roping should not exceed the thickness of a cigarette. Or something along those lines. Either way, it's a concept that Sartoria Sciamat appear to have taken and run away with.

That's fine. I only have a lay knowledge of tailoring, so I'm aware that my terminology may not be strictly correct from a tailoring perspective. I think that Sciamat shoulder treatment has another name which you find referred to in women's tailoring. Jefferyd will know.

username79 · May 10, 2010

Originally Posted by apropos

For starters, iammatt's shoulder appears to be more extended than whnay's. Look at the angle formed between the shoulder and the outside of the sleeve. Even taking into account the different slope of their shoulders, compare whnay's R shoulder (L on your screen) with iammatt's R shoulder (L on your screen). Big difference, despite the relative closeness in shoulder angle.
Thank you for confirming that only minuscule technical details exist between the two despite significant differences in body type and posture.

The Rubinacci Thread.

Distinguished Member

Distinguished Member

Distinguished Member

Senior Member

Distinguished Member

Senior Member

Senior Member

Distinguished Member

Distinguished Member

Distinguished Member

Distinguished Member

Distinguished Member

Distinguished Member

Distinguished Member

Distinguished Member

Classic Menswear Featured products

FEATURED PRODUCTS

Similar threads

Featured Sponsor

Definitely full canvas only

Half canvas is fine

Really don't care

Depends on fabric

Depends on price

Forum Sponsors

Forum statistics

FOLLOW STYLEFORUM ON: