Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed

Cary Grant · Apr 5, 2010

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Yes. Have I ever suggested otherwise? Mariano or Luca will tell you the same. If you come into London House in Naples asking for a lean, clean jacket, they'll often suggest using their Milan shop instead. Different tailors do different work--that's been my point the whole time, no?

Make sense, interesting, nonetheless.

Which, for lack of a better term, "style" travels? Who comes to New York?

gdl203 · Apr 5, 2010

IMO:
Attolini looks good
The one Castangia example looks good
Rubinacci looks a bit off
Steed doesn't look very good

TheFoo · Apr 5, 2010

Originally Posted by Cary Grant

Make sense, interesting, nonetheless.

Which, for lack of a better term, "style" travels? Who comes to New York?

Luca comes to New York. I actually don't know whether you can pick to have things made in Naples or Milan, but I can't see why not.

Cary Grant · Apr 5, 2010

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Luca comes to New York. I actually don't know whether you can pick to have things made in Naples or Milan, but I can't see why not.

Ah- thanks M- wondering how that translates to each cutter...

TheFoo · Apr 5, 2010

Originally Posted by gdl203

Attolini looks good

Do you see a marked difference between Attolini MTM and bespoke, or am the only one? The MTM has no shaping in the chest. It looks like they just took a RTW jacket and cut at the sides.

TRINI · Apr 5, 2010

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Yes. Have I ever suggested otherwise? Mariano or Luca will tell you the same. If you come into London House in Naples asking for a lean, clean jacket, they'll often suggest using their Milan shop instead. Different tailors do different work--that's been my point the whole time, no?

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Luca comes to New York. I actually don't know whether you can pick to have things made in Naples or Milan, but I can't see why not.

Pardon my ignorance but I'm really confused now. I thought that the cutter/fitter influences the shape, fit of the suit - the tailor pieces it all together.

If Luca's the one that's travelling and he's the one doing the fitting, won't the garment then take on whichever 'style' he represents?

gdl203 · Apr 5, 2010

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Do you see a marked difference between Attolini MTM and bespoke, or am the only one? The MTM has no shaping in the chest. It looks like they just took a RTW jacket and cut at the sides.

The bespoke seem to fit better but the styling on the MTM seems more attractive to me - I can't really explain it but I think the MTM ones are better looking garments. The cut on #5 is especially unflattering IMO - makes him look chubby.

lasbar · Apr 5, 2010

Originally Posted by TRINI

Are you saying that the Rubinacci 'house style' differs depending on which location you get measured at?

It does make sense especially if they're locally trained..

Milan is a city with a different sociocultural and therefore sartorial heritage than Naples..
The Milan look is cleaner and more structured...More business like when Naples is more flamboyant...

Cary Grant · Apr 5, 2010

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Do you see a marked difference between Attolini MTM and bespoke, or am the only one? The MTM has no shaping in the chest. It looks like they just took a RTW jacket and cut at the sides.

I see it as you see it; not that the MTM looks bad. I wouldn't expect the MTM to look as naturally shaped without some serious surgery.

Cary Grant · Apr 5, 2010

Originally Posted by lasbar

It does make sense especially if they're locally trained..

Milan is a city with a different sociocultural and therefore sartorial heritage than Naples..
The Milan look is cleaner and more structured...More business like when Naples is more flamboyant...

We get that- Trini's point, and my question, is how one individual's measurements results in two different house style that still fit exceptionally well. I might suppose that any issues are resolved in the fittings and that Luca's measurements are enough to get started.

TheFoo · Apr 5, 2010

Originally Posted by TRINI

Pardon my ignorance but I'm really confused now. I thought that the cutter/fitter influences the shape, fit of the suit - the tailor pieces it all together.

If Luca's the one that's travelling and he's the one doing the fitting, won't the garment then take on whichever 'style' he represents?

Neither Luca nor Mariano are cutters. They may take initial measurements and liaise with the tailor who is making your garment during fittings, and they are responsible for the ultimate outcome, but they aren't in the back cutting cloth or sewing.

Originally Posted by gdl203

The bespoke seem to fit better but the styling on the MTM seems more attractive to me - I can't really explain it but I think the MTM ones are better looking garments. The cut on #5 is especially unflattering IMO - makes him look chubby.

I think the MTM Attolini dinner suit is one of the worst, and arguably the worst, of the whole bunch. It really looks just like RTW adjusted by a lazy alterations tailor. Not too hot on the style, either: the peaks looks like they are going to lift-off at any given moment.

That said, the other MTM example is much better looking. I don't understand the discrepancy. I can see why one might prefer it over the bespoke, but chest shaping is really important to me.

Slewfoot · Apr 5, 2010

I think they all look great in their own way. I'd be happy with any one of them. All of them seem to have a more relaxed style than one often sees which I appreciate. They are not clean and lean. The one thing I might suggest is to lower your next commission a half inch. On some items the quarters seem a bit scrunched.

Thanks for the comparison! Very gracious of you.

mmkn · Apr 5, 2010

For your body habitus, Attolini [and maybe Liverano & Liverano].

- M

Cary Grant · Apr 5, 2010

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

I think they all look great in their own way. I'd be happy with any one of them.

I can't say that about the Steeds.

Vox' Steeds make me want to meet with Edwin and yet these do not.

Doxe · Apr 5, 2010

Montesquieu,

Which of the suits feels like it fits your body the best?

The reason I ask is that in the past Vox has had people comment that his Solito fits better than his Steed, only to be told by Vox that the Steed is more shapely and fitted and the 2 dimensional picture does not capture the full shape of the suit.

Also, what are the weights of the fabrics on the Steed suits? My own experience is that a suit needs to settle on the body. Usually the heavier the cloth the longer it takes for the suit to properly conform. Does this explain the odd collar roll on the Steeds above the button?

Fit notwithstanding, I love the fabrics you've chosen. Particularly the Steed #5 and the Attolini #1.

Thanks for posting your pics and opening yourself to potential (inevitable) criticism (abuse).

Poll: Attolini vs. Rubinacci vs. Steed

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