Mystery Budapest Shoemaker

Originally Posted by gdl203

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Even that shoe tree looks exactly like the ones Vass has made.
Vass don't make their own trees. As fritzl said, they are likely produced by the same maker who supplies to Lászlò.

Originally Posted by fritzl

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Sterling will chime in on classic lasts.
Always a pleasure...

Originally Posted by fritzl

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fwiw, the lasts are made for the i-gent crowd, which will not order...

Originally Posted by fritzl

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as i said, it's not a very authentic budapest last(shape)

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

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Springline actually has an "Alt Wein" raised toe box last (which appears identical to the Budapest raised toe box that I have seen from Vass, Dinkelacker & now this Mystery Shoemaker).
(...)
I would not want Springline to make me a Budapester style last from scratch. But if they have familiarity with it...well its a mere 227 pound gamble.
(...)
Fritzl, give me some details on how the latest brown blucher is not a traditional Budapester (it looks the same as the black one I posted in the beginning of this thread)?
By Budapester, I mean the raised toe box last (not the generic Mittle Europe term for using a wing tip design on a blucher)
In a traditional Budapester last, the toe box is raised but also the sole is set back a little. Looking at the shoe from the side, the toe box is actually longer than the sole (Zehenschiffchen). The variants produced by Vass, Dinkelacker and a few others are very moderate last shapes, you can clearly see that they were made for an international clientele. Vass' older Budapester model is a bit more traditionally shaped. I will add photos I got the chance to take at fritzl's and my Operation Paprika trip a few days ago as soon as I am back at my own computer. They show a Budapester which is as traditional as it gets, from the last shape to the detailing on the uppers to the sole. You will see a clear difference. Of course, the Budapester lasts shown here are not badly shaped per se, but they are what I would call "watered down".

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

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What is the history behind Goyser stitching...was there any benefit against inclemental weather...or is it pure aesthetics?
In a Goyserer stich or Zwienaht, the welt is sewn completely on the outside, making the ridge between sole and upper waterproof to a certain extent. Of course, it can also look very nice, which is a plus.

Originally Posted by Sterling Gillette

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Vass don't make their own trees. As fritzl said, they are likely produced by the same maker who supplies to Lászlò.
Yes - you're merely repeating exactly what I wrote. To have something made is not make.

Originally Posted by gdl203

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Yes - you're merely repeating exactly what I wrote. To have something made is not make.

I simply wanted to point out that your point is, well, pointless, since almost all shoemakers have their lasts made elsewhere. I am not denying that the last shape looks very much like the famed Vass offerings. They do.

S.G., I look forward to the pics of the "traditional Budapester last".

S.G. and Fritzl...is the traditional Budapester last available through Operation Paprika?...or was it another makers which you ran into during your many travels?

DW- thanks

Originally Posted by Cary Grant

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DW- thanks

is there a conclusion for you now?

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

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S.G., I look forward to the pics of the "traditional Budapester last".

Is it available through Operation Paprika?...or was it another makers which you ran into during your many travels?

Michael,

the one SG is talking about, is a 42 in black. this can be had through operation paprika.

Originally Posted by Michael Ay329

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S.G., I look forward to the pics of the "traditional Budapester last".

S.G. and Fritzl...is the traditional Budapester last available through Operation Paprika?...or was it another makers which you ran into during your many travels?

Originally Posted by fritzl

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Michael,

the one SG is talking about, is a 42 in black. this can be had through operation paprika.




I was talking about this shoe. As you can see, the toebox is significantly more bent forward and you almost don't see the sole from the top.

Yes, it is available through Operation Paprika, as is its twin pair: a black two(=four) eyelet derby (double soled) on the same last. Stunning shoes. I'd buy them at once if they were my size. We have yet to find this one in other sizes. The last is very sleek, btw. Not at all blobby (sole picture is accurate, not much lens distortion).

Originally Posted by Sterling Gillette

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In a traditional Budapester last, the toe box is raised but also the sole is set back a little. Looking at the shoe from the side, the toe box is actually longer than the sole (Zehenschiffchen). The variants produced by Vass, Dinkelacker and a few others are very moderate last shapes, you can clearly see that they were made for an international clientele. Vass' older Budapester model is a bit more traditionally shaped. I will add photos I got the chance to take at fritzl's and my Operation Paprika trip a few days ago as soon as I am back at my own computer. They show a Budapester which is as traditional as it gets, from the last shape to the detailing on the uppers to the sole. You will see a clear difference. Of course, the Budapester lasts shown here are not badly shaped per se, but they are what I would call "watered down".

Looking forward to the comparison pics.

edit: just saw the pic. Thanks for posting.

Originally Posted by srivats

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Looking forward to the comparison pics.

edit: just saw the pic. Thanks for posting.
You're welcome.

Originally Posted by Sterling Gillette

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You're welcome.

What is the suede (?) punch-cap pair on the bottom of this pic?
http://mydisk.se/floriankueblbeck/we...dapester-3.JPG

Looks very good.

Originally Posted by Sterling Gillette

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looks good, imo

thanks SG

Originally Posted by Sterling Gillette

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I simply wanted to point out that your point is, well, pointless, since almost all shoemakers have their lasts made elsewhere. I am not denying that the last shape looks very much like the famed Vass offerings. They do.

My point was not whether or not the last was made elsewhere, or even by the same last maker. It was that the shoe tree design looks exactly like the nes Vass uses (with that little wooden ball thingy) - you may know other shoemakers who use the exact same trees, but I don't. Vass is the only one I know who uses these shoe tree designs.

Originally Posted by srivats

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What is the suede (?) punch-cap pair on the bottom of this pic?
http://mydisk.se/floriankueblbeck/we...dapester-3.JPG

Looks very good.
It's a quarter brogue in oxblood waxed suede as far as I remeber. I'll post a picture later.

Originally Posted by fritzl

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looks good, imo

thanks SG
THe waist, man, look at the waist.

Originally Posted by gdl203

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My point was not whether or not the last was made elsewhere, or even by the same last maker. It was that the shoe tree design looks exactly like the nes Vass uses (with that little wooden ball thingy) - you may know other shoemakers who use the exact same trees, but I don't. Vass is the only one I know who uses these shoe tree designs.
The knob handle is something Kálmán Bertá does for many clients. Maftei, for example, has the same tree design. Münchner Schuhwerkstätten, too.

Originally Posted by Sterling Gillette

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the waist, man, look at the waist.

...and a Holstein Schnitzel, what does a man need m o r e in life...