The Rubinacci Thread.

whnay. · Mar 15, 2010

Originally Posted by mat135ta

Thanks so much! I thought they are thicker than 2.5mm. I was wrong.

With the same shape and polish, is it true that the thicker the buttons, the better and the more luxury they look? If have have the option to choose the thickness of the buttons I order from the factory, what kind of thickness is preferred? 4mm thick for 20mm buttons and 3mm thick for 15mm ones, or 5mm thick for 20mm ones and 4mm thick for 15mm ones?

I think your thinking too much about buttons.

voxsartoria · Mar 15, 2010

Originally Posted by whnay.

I think your thinking too much about buttons.

Would you please measure the ones in this pic?

There are four of them.

Thanks.

- B

edmorel · Mar 15, 2010

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Would you please measure the ones in this pic?

There are four of them.

Thanks.

- B

I know a trick where I can change her two top buttons to pearl ones.

JPHardy · Mar 15, 2010

Originally Posted by mat135ta

Thanks so much! I thought they are thicker than 2.5mm. I was wrong. With the same shape and polish, is it true that the thicker the buttons, the better and the more luxury they look? If have have the option to choose the thickness of the buttons I order from the factory, what kind of thickness is preferred? 4mm thick for 20mm buttons and 3mm thick for 15mm ones, or 5mm thick for 20mm ones and 4mm thick for 15mm ones?
Looks like Rubinacci buttons are headed the way of rims. As in... "All my jackets have 20mm dubs, that how I roll"

jamesbond · Mar 15, 2010

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Would you please measure the ones in this pic?

There are four of them.

Thanks.

- B

Oops.

mat135ta · Mar 15, 2010

Originally Posted by whnay.

I think your thinking too much about buttons.

The good buttons (and the right way to use them) do make a huge difference, according to my experience.

Since I am trying to source some good buttons at reasonable price, for myself and for SFers, it does make sense to sort out the optimal solution (or near optimal) before placing the orders to the factory.

apropos · Mar 15, 2010

Best case scenario is that you will get a poor deal since you are placing a relatively small order. Take nataurlaut for example. $4.5 for each button? I mean - WTF?

For a 3r2 with 8 cuff buttons and pants, that is a significant chunk of change... for buttons. RJW sells horn buttons that are 1mm thinner but still plenty thick (3mm) for less than a dollar each. Consider for a moment as well that the best buttons in the world will make not a whit of difference to a poorly cut suit, which is the problem with most suits we see here. This button thing is like one of those audiophile things - like $1000 wooden knobs on your stereo player to make it 'sound' better.

edmorel · Mar 15, 2010

Originally Posted by apropos

Best case scenario is that you will get a poor deal since you are placing a relatively small order.

Take nataurlaut for example. $4.5 for each button? I mean - WTF?

For a 3r2 with 8 cuff buttons and pants, that is a significant chunk of change... for buttons. RJW sells horn buttons that are 1mm thinner but still plenty thick (3mm) for less than a dollar each.

Don't know anything about RJW but keep in mind that a lot of "horn" buttons that are sold on the market are actually Urea, which are very cheap and can be dyed to make them look like anything. Most people, including merchants, can't tell the difference. The button hierarchy is Urea, Corozo, Horn (moves up in price the lighter it gets in color). I can tell you from experience dealing with one of the largest, if not the largest, wholesalers of horn buttons in the U.S. that you cannot retail quality horn buttons for under a $1.00.

apropos · Mar 16, 2010

^ Sorry it was <1 GBP.

I am skeptical that RJW, one of the bigger trimming/haberdashery names, would knowingly cheat its customers.

Any reliable way to tell urea from horn?

Fishball · Mar 16, 2010

Originally Posted by apropos

^ Sorry it was <1 GBP.

I am skeptical that RJW, one of the bigger trimming/haberdashery names, would knowingly cheat its customers.

Any reliable way to tell urea from horn?

Apropos,

No need to sorry, the RJW horn button price are less than 1 USD. The supplier don't know where to source, doesn't mean it can't be done.
RJW do have imitation horn button to sell, they are cheaper than real horn.
Using a red hot needle can test it.

AndrewRogers · Mar 16, 2010

RJW buttons are the real deal. They are not the faux horn you often get, which is not straight plastic but ground-down bone mixed with resin and cast as buttons. You only need to get your hands on some RJW buttons to see this. As pointed out, they also have a range of straight plastic and imitation horn buttons.

For the record, I have never sold RJW buttons nor have I got anything to do with them. They happily sell to anyone and are cheap and easy to deal with.

mat135ta · Mar 16, 2010

Originally Posted by apropos

Best case scenario is that you will get a poor deal since you are placing a relatively small order. Take nataurlaut for example. $4.5 for each button? I mean - WTF?

For a 3r2 with 8 cuff buttons and pants, that is a significant chunk of change... for buttons. RJW sells horn buttons that are 1mm thinner but still plenty thick (3mm) for less than a dollar each. Consider for a moment as well that the best buttons in the world will make not a whit of difference to a poorly cut suit, which is the problem with most suits we see here. This button thing is like one of those audiophile things - like $1000 wooden knobs on your stereo player to make it 'sound' better.
I can get buttons from the factory that supplies Brioni for around $1.5/pc for 24L, $2/pc for 32L. And the buttons are 2mm thicker, if not nicer, than RJW sells. Well said about the cut of suits, but the same go with shirts, yet I will be really disappointed if Borrelli changes the buttons it uses to cheaper thinner ones.

Originally Posted by edmorel

Don't know anything about RJW but keep in mind that a lot of "horn" buttons that are sold on the market are actually Urea, which are very cheap and can be dyed to make them look like anything. Most people, including merchants, can't tell the difference. The button hierarchy is Urea, Corozo, Horn (moves up in price the lighter it gets in color). I can tell you from experience dealing with one of the largest, if not the largest, wholesalers of horn buttons in the U.S. that you cannot retail quality horn buttons for under a $1.00.
What about MOP and bone buttons? Where do they lie in the hierarchy? : p

The_Foxx · May 8, 2010

BUMP for updates/ more photos. Whnay, did I miss further photos of your recently completed items? I don't think I ever caught photos showing the fit and cut of your chalkstriped suit, etc., if you wouldn't mind posting them/ again.

thanks!

username79 · May 8, 2010

Originally Posted by iammatt

I think Bill's suit looks great. Some of you are picky to the point of absurdity, IMO. Here are a couple of mine.

This tailor does not appear to adjust his cut based on body type. Reminds me of Ambrosi, who appears to like big hips and tiny cuffs on anyone, be it midget or circus clown. Your suit looks great on you because you are tall, thin, fit, and have good posture. The suit of the original poster does not fit well because he is short, rotund, and has posture issues. Had the tailor adjusted his cut for the original's body type, his suit would look far better.

A great example of how one style fits two people vastly differently, with a stark contrast in end result.

Xiaogou · May 8, 2010

Originally Posted by username79

This tailor does not appear to adjust his cut based on body type. Reminds me of Ambrosi, who appears to like big hips and tiny cuffs on anyone, be it midget or circus clown. Your suit looks great on you because you are tall, thin, fit, and have good posture. The suit of the original poster does not fit well because he is short, rotund, and has posture issues. Had the tailor adjusted his cut for the original's body type, his suit would look far better.

A great example of how one style fits two people vastly differently, with a stark contrast in end result.

IMO, shorter people will benefit from the neopolitan lapel/shoulder. Having a higher lapel gives the appearance of being taller as a longer line is created. Someone like me who is already 6'2" would not benefit from the look.

Looks like somebody has a serious sloped right shoulder (Iammatt)!

The Rubinacci Thread.

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