chain stitch hemming

the reason some jean hems pucker is because the designer used cotton thread not polly thread(industry standard). The shrinkage of the cotton in the thread causes the hem to pucker and gives it the shading we all so desire. same goes for the railroad tracks on the side seams. On the subject of authenticity you need to consider the country of origin as a major factor. Now that everybody is into their jeans not just Japanese, it is turning into a fashion trend that certain brands end up mass producing in China. Many Chinese factories have bought up the old union specials chainstitch machines from US jean factories that have gone out of business because of cheap labor overseas. Denim jeans are about American as apple pie, so if you really want to get authentic product make sure it's from a company that has always cared, not just because it's in fashion and make sure they are made in USA. Made in Japan is ok though because they care so much about their details and quality and have purchased many of Levis original 30" looms. They also have a strong passion for indigo and go to painstaking levels of dipping yarns 25 or 30 times to get that deep indigo, even going so much as to hand wringing the indigo into the yarns to get deeper indigo penitration.

Originally Posted by lupin23rd

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Is there much of a different in chain-stich hemming jeans vs not? Or is it not possible to do it another way for some jeans?

I'm going to Tokyo in a couple weeks and plan to pick up at least one pair, and hopefully get the right sizing on other brands so I can mail order in the future...I can probably just get the store to hem them when I am there (or find some place to do it) but if I can't find a place here....

m

most of the stores in japan have machines on hand and will chainstitch your jeans free of charge.

Originally Posted by kiya

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We chainstitch all jeans for free at Self Edge if they were bought from us for instore sales only.
We charge $15 if you bring in jeans that weren't bought from us.
With that said, if you're not able to come in, don't get an original hem. In my opinion, an original hem never falls naturally and the outcome isn't as good as if you just had gotten a regular top stitch hem.

would u say this runs true for washed denim as well? or are u only talking about raw denim?

This should apply to washed too. I got the original hem on a one wash pair of jeans and it tends to keep its circular shape, theres a slight bulk to it, and it doesn't seem to fall naturally. It looks and feels crappy to me but most people wouldn't notice from afar. In hindsight I wish I would have gotten a regular top stitch hem if chainstitching wasn't an option.

Originally Posted by bsyde82

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would u say this runs true for washed denim as well? or are u only talking about raw denim?

probably even worse on washed denim

Originally Posted by poly800rock

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probably even worse on washed denim

correct. it's because washed denim is softer, so the stiffer hem makes a BIG contrast in how it falls. it's less noticeable in stiffer/raw denim.

Curious...those of you who have got your hems chain-stitched on raw denim, did you wait till you washed/soaked the jeans, or just have it done to allow for a bit of shrinkage? I'm not a fan of bunching, so I'd rather not have any extra material at the bottom.


BTW, in NYC, I believe Blue-in-Green in Soho also does chain-stitching for about 20 bucks.

I just called 45RPM in NYC and they said they no longer do chain stitch hemming for jeans purchased out of store. Is there any place else in NYC that has a chain stitch machine? I need to get my APCs hemmed.

PCs aren't chain stitched anyway just take them to a tailor.

Originally Posted by whathup

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I just called 45RPM in NYC and they said they no longer do chain stitch hemming for jeans purchased out of store. Is there any place else in NYC that has a chain stitch machine? I need to get my APCs hemmed.

Try Blue in Green: www.blueingreensoho.com

Sorry about reviving an old topic, but is it better to chain stitch before or after a hot soak? Thanks.

Originally Posted by nahneun

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Sorry about reviving an old topic, but is it better to chain stitch before or after a hot soak? Thanks.
Doesn't matter unless you're shortening the inseam; if that's the case, soak.

Just like to say if you do go to big you'll likely need to make return trips.

Old thread, but seems like I remember someone (whodini?) showing good roping on the hems of a pair of non-chainstitched jeans, disproving the myth that roping is a chainstitch-only benefit. That post had to be from a while back, though.

Wish I was in a better spot in my life, as there's both an old Union Special chainstitch machine and a 5-thread Union Special serger up on craigslist locally... at very good prices.

Originally Posted by c00kz

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Just like to say if you do go to big you'll likely need to make return trips.

what do you mean?