I bought a sharpening stone

Originally Posted by alliswell

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Knife damage and repair question: someone who no longer works for me used by Wusthof Grand Prix chef's knife to pry open a can of tomatoes. It's damaged in three places - two dents along the edge and a broken tip. Is this something that can be repaired by a civilian, a specialist, or not at all?

If someone did this to my knife, I would most likely grind it down on their teeth.

Originally Posted by Bhowie

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T-Bone thanks for the info in this thread.

aw shucks, glad to share what I can!

Originally Posted by kwilkinson

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If someone did this to my knife, I would most likely grind it down on their teeth.

you wouldn't have to: the Shun has a Kamikaze spirit forged into it that would take off the unlucky bastard's fingers - at the second knuckle.

Originally Posted by Thomas

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you wouldn't have to: the Shun has a Kamikaze spirit forged into it that would take off the unlucky bastard's fingers - at the second knuckle.


I need a medium-sized knife. Just bought a Sugimoto Gara-ski 170mm and a Sugimoto cleaver. Will update w/ poarn when they arrive.

Originally Posted by kwilkinson

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I need a medium-sized knife. Just bought a Sugimoto Gara-ski 170mm and a Sugimoto cleaver.

Will update w/ poarn when they arrive.

LOL, Mrs. T has started reaching for my old 240mm gyutou, when her santoku isn't available.

Originally Posted by Thomas

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(To paraphase) Hit it with a hammer.

Done and done It's not pretty but after honing it cuts a tomato. Next question. I'm planning on getting a waterstone to take care of the other straight edges in this set. Do I need something less than 1000 grit to grind a new edge on this one?

Originally Posted by alliswell

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Done and done

It's not pretty but after honing it cuts a tomato. Next question. I'm planning on getting a waterstone to take care of the other straight edges in this set. Do I need something less than 1000 grit to grind a new edge on this one?

Not really, but if you're going to remove a bit of steel it would make the task quicker. I've cut some narrower bevel angles on a few knives with 1000 grit and it takes a few minutes - sometimes 15-20 minutes, but that's the sort of thing you only do once on a knife.

Originally Posted by Thomas

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Not really, but if you're going to remove a bit of steel it would make the task quicker. I've cut some narrower bevel angles on a few knives with 1000 grit and it takes a few minutes - sometimes 15-20 minutes, but that's the sort of thing you only do once on a knife.

I was looking at a 120 and a 1000/3000 Naniwa water stones for some beat up knives. Should I drop the 120?

lefty

Originally Posted by lefty

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I was looking at a 120 and a 1000/3000 Naniwa water stones for some beat up knives. Should I drop the 120?

lefty

The lowest stone I'd ever willingly use is a 600 grit (usually wouldn't go under 800). And that is only if there are microchips in the blade or it has really been overlooked for some time. To use a 120 grit over anything else, I'd think my blade would have to be pretty heavily damaged (visible chips, big problems, etc). That's just me though. All my knives get resharpened on an almost weekly basis. Thomas probably knows much better than I do.

Originally Posted by lefty

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I was looking at a 120 and a 1000/3000 Naniwa water stones for some beat up knives. Should I drop the 120?

lefty

I was going to answer earlier but I got derailed - for normal use I'd skip the 120 and instead get something for polishing - 6000-8000 grit.

If you have serious gouges in the blade, though, and really want to keep it, then I'd rec DMT X-Coarse lapping plate, as it won't dish and it cuts about as fast as my 320-grit "Green Lobster" stone.

The 1000/3000 should handle most situations? And a 6000+ for polishing?

One knife, while not as gouged as the pictured blade, is a little dinged. It maybe easier to buy a new one.

Thanks,
lefty

Originally Posted by lefty

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The 1000/3000 should handle most situations? And a 6000+ for polishing?

One knife, while not as gouged as the pictured blade, is a little dinged. It maybe easier to buy a new one.

Thanks,
lefty

Yep: 1000 for grinding/bevel setting, 3000 for intermediary, and 6000 for polishing. You may opt to go with the 1000/3000 for now and get the 6000 later on if you want a finer edge than the 3000 gives you.

Thanks, mate.

lefty

ok, prompted by the scorn of manton, i pulled out my sharpening stone this week and have been going through my knives, without the aid of mechanical assistance. And, yeah, i was really overthinking it. lots of the sharpening manuals emphasize exact angles and since i have a longstanding abhorence of geometry, that freaked me out. but i took a knife-sharpening class with mr. sugai at korin a year or so ago and he advised just finding the angle where the edge felt seamless against the stone. duh. works like a champ. i'm still not sure i'd risk my misono (screwed it up so bad last time, sugai shook his head when he saw it), but my wusthoff is now officially scary sharp.

I have been using whet stones for years on my pocket knifes but never attempted any sharpening of my kitchen knives, I have a set of Global knives now. I was wondering if anyone has tried the manual pull through type sharpeners like this one: Wusthof Sharpener

Originally Posted by Korben

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I have been using whet stones for years on my pocket knifes but never attempted any sharpening of my kitchen knives, I have a set of Global knives now. I was wondering if anyone has tried the manual pull through type sharpeners like this one: Wusthof Sharpener

Won't work for your globals since the angle is different from the german brands.