Sartorial mythbusting

Originally Posted by Manton

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The parts we can see are fine though, aren't they?

And aren't we supposed to conclude that the whole firm, and everything they do and have ever done, are terrible based on one photo of the back of one coat? But that rule only applies to the negative case? A good back is just waved away?

Do these rules apply to any other tailors, or just to A&S?

^London Lounge cloth?

Originally Posted by apropos

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Bill... cares.

He is missed.

- B

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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He is missed.

- B

Aren't you on holiday or whatever you call it over there?

Originally Posted by Dakota rube

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Definition, please?



Your guess is as good as mine.

Originally Posted by Manton

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The parts we can see are fine though, aren't they?

And aren't we supposed to conclude that the whole firm, and everything they do and have ever done, are terrible based on one photo of the back of one coat? But that rule only applies to the negative case? A good back is just waved away?

Do these rules apply to any other tailors, or just to A&S?


Only applies to A&S. To signal connoisseurship or a higher level of appreciation, one need only reject or attack the most recognizable member of the set.

Okay, so here's a sartorial myth: high buttoning points make people look thinner and taller. I find that the opposite is almost always true.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Okay, so here's a sartorial myth: high buttoning points make people look thinner and taller. I find that the opposite is almost always true.
I agree, I convinced my brother of this as well. Though no foo, I felt he benefited greatly from it. Didn't Manton argue this in The Suit?

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Okay, so here's a sartorial myth: high buttoning points make people look thinner and taller. I find that the opposite is almost always true.
I think that depends on the clients shape, as well as other factors.

Originally Posted by jefferyd

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No, we just look for different things, and as I said, unless I can see full-on, full-length shots, I can't really say anything for sure. And is that your normal posture, with your head slung so far forward, or are you watching what he's doing?

So it's always right to jump to conclusions to A&S's detriment, but evidence that they have done something right is always inconclusive.

In addition: alone among all firms, A&S is to be criticized when things look right at a fitting because, hey, it's just a fitting. Why give them credit for making clothes that fit from the get-go?

jeffrey, you are a very knowledgable guy and I enjoy learning from you, but you are not being fair here.

Originally Posted by Manton

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but you are not being fair here.

You may be confusing me with other people. I'm not saying your coat is bad, I'm saying we can;t judge it from this crooked photo in which you are leaning forward. In recent memory I have only come out and bashed the fit of one coat, in which whnay was standing as close to neutral as possible and in which we could see the front well. Otherwise I would have kept my mouth shut as we would not be able to judge it properly (and even so, I allowed that there could be attenuating circumstances and was hoping to see new photos). You also forget that I pointed out a few improvements that I had seen in A&S coats recently; I am no fan of theirs, but don't lump me in with the rabid haters; if I see something I like I will say so, no matter who made it.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Okay, so here's a sartorial myth: high buttoning points make people look thinner and taller. I find that the opposite is almost always true.

High button point makes the person thinner, but no taller.
I think I said that when you foofed a photo a couple of days ago.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Okay, so here's a sartorial myth: high buttoning points make people look thinner and taller. I find that the opposite is almost always true.
The theory is that the longer quarters visually extend the line of the leg, and thus give the impression of height. What I see happen in practise is that the quarters usually end up emphasising the wearer's hips, making him look pear shaped, and thus resulting in the opposite effect.

Originally Posted by George

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Aren't you on holiday or whatever you call it over there?

Every day is vacation on teh StyleForvm.

- B

Enough of the Drape ****!

As far as I can tell, "The Firm" has different level of make based on who the client might be, in descending order . . .

1 - Fred Astaire, Tom Ford
2 - Manton
3 - Whnay
4 - That poor chap with the atrocious collar.

Might be better to go with just one name . . . A Shattuck is a Shattuck is a Shattuck is a Shattuck . . .

- M

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Every day is vacation on teh StyleForvm.

- B

Yeah....in here...