Sartorial mythbusting

jefferyd · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by Manton

I like a mobile sleeve, but I also want it to be clean. I don't see how, if my sleeves were messy, they would be any more mobile. In any event, I am happy with the mobility I have. I wouldn't want any less, but I don't think I need any more.

If the original line in the draft below would produce a clean-fitting undersleeve, the red line is what I mean by cutting a long undersleeve. The shaded area is a bit like a gusset allowing much more movement; if I were cutting for a conductor I would adjust the sleeve like this. It's messy but you have more movement. I've seen it in a lot of the A&S stuff, but maybe he's cleaning the sleeves up these days. If Astaire was abler to dance around without his collar moving, it would have had more to do with this type of sleeve cutting than a 3" back neck.

asdf · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

Actually, I think gay men would be a lot nicer, and straight men wouldn't care. I think sissies who think their manhood is in peril of slipping, get off on examining mens' bodies. So when I use the term "gay", I meant it from a descriptive pov not the actual life style. Perhaps i should use the word "****"? Or perhaps I should get off the term altogether and use "Fruit cake" which also describes the mental state of some of the forum sissies?

I'm not sure what nice or not-nice has to do with things, I was merely referring to your "i'm not gay and don't notice men's bodies so if anyone else comments on my physical appearance they must be gay" comment, and how it is found so closely followed by an objection to personal attacks. humorous, no?

Manton · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I look really great today.

I look pretty bad. But I looked good yesterday, and expect to look good tomorrow.

Film Noir Buff · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by asdf

I'm not sure what nice or not-nice has to do with things, I was merely referring to your "i'm not gay and don't notice men's bodies so if anyone else comments on my physical appearance they must be gay" comment, and how it is found so closely followed by an objection to personal attacks. humorous, no?
Not really, I am not singling anyone out. I simply find it uncomfortable how much certain members study mens bodies. I think it's creepy and out of place on a clothes message board. However, there are some very immature people here and, judging by the way most of the nastiest commentators look, it's a matter of deep seated inadequacy concerning their own looks. But it's just an element of the overall fantasia and it partially explains how some people here can throw their money away on lousy fabrics and tailoring and then need to claim it is superior to other tailoring and styles.

mmkn · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I look really great today.

Oh: cheers!

- B

Fine, fine, but please don't post WAYWRN [or what are you not wearing right now] while cheering.

- M

voxsartoria · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by Manton

I look pretty bad. But I looked good yesterday, and expect to look good tomorrow.

I'm glad you got the homage.

- B

Film Noir Buff · Jan 18, 2010

Ok, here's a thought. If Anderson and Sheppard have recently reinvented themselves, then what accounts for this awful fit? Can it be that the MD of the firm, whom I am sure is a marvelous person, can be so blind to the various shortcomings or can it be that the sort of customer he is used to either cannot see or doesn't want to see that the suit looks like modified rtw?

Manton · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

Ok, here's a thought. If Anderson and Sheppard have recently reinvented themselves, then what accounts for this awful fit? Can it be that the MD of the firm, whom I am sure is a marvelous person, can be so blind to the various shortcomings or can it be that the sort of customer he is used to either cannot see or doesn't want to see that the suit looks like modified rtw?

The "various shortcomings" of that suit have yet to be explained by anyone. Even the stripe issue that jeffreyd and Despos identifed, and which kicked off this discussion, appears not to be present on Hitchcock's suit.

bengal-stripe · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

But this is a personal attack by you on the individual and not about the quality,fit or construction of the suit. A tailor can only make the best suit he can, he cannot account for the whopping immaturity of geeks on a message board

I don’t know the individual, and for all I know the owner might have put on considerable weight after the suit was made
(then, of course, the tailor is not to blame.)

But any suit, cut like that for an overweight man (whose weight hasn’t changed) is a misjudgement and a misfit.
Then the tailor is to blame, even if the client insisted on such a look.

Not even a slim man in his twenties, should not wear suits that ridiculously tight. (Makes him look if he was still wearing his confirmation suit.)

What good is the quality of making and construction (which this suit might well have) if the fit is off to such an extend.

Film Noir Buff · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

I don’t know the individual, and for all I know the owner might have put on considerable weight after the suit was made (then of course the tailor is not to blame.) But any suit, cut like that for an overweight man (whose weight hasn’t changed) is a misjudgement and a misfit. Then the tailor is to blame, if if the client insisted on such a look. Even a slim man in his twenties, should not wear suits that ridiculously tight. (Makes him look if he was still wearing his confirmation suit.) What good is the quality of making and construction (which this suit might well have) if the fit is off to such an extend.
I dont see the man's shape in terms of your ideals but rather in terms of what he would look like in say a pair of jeans and a tee. What would you have him wear? The tailor is not to blame for indulging the mans' request and you dont know that any other tailor attempting the same wouldnt have created a most horrendous cock up; I suspect that is the case. Also,I would believe that clothing is the purview of every man whether he is big, overweight, young, short, old, sickly, cadaverously underweight, ugly, wide hipped and narrow shouldered, sunken chested, poor postured, or has a wing bladed back. I dont get why someone would have to apoloize for their looks to you or anyone else?

edmorel · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

jeffreyd, since you are The Line King (get it????), why does the stripes go up to his neck like that? Is that the only way it can be done on a larger person or is there a way of making the lines straight and hence, not make the person look so portly in the middle?

voxsartoria · Jan 18, 2010

My calf muscles are like a scene from The 300.

Oh: cheers!

- B

edmorel · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

My calf muscles are like a scene from The 300.

Oh: cheers!

- B

A cast of my stomach was used as the model for the Spartans in the movie.

voxsartoria · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by edmorel

jeffreyd, since you are The Line King (get it????), why does the stripes go up to his neck like that? Is that the only way it can be done on a larger person or is there a way of making the lines straight and hence, not make the person look so portly in the middle?

In some of the classic pattern texts, a stripe would be done vertically on fatties as you theorize.

Oh: cheers!

- B

voxsartoria · Jan 18, 2010

Originally Posted by mmkn

Fine, fine, but please don't post WAYWRN [or what are you not wearing right now] while cheering.

- M

Ahhh...you fear the hot tub post. Worry not: island not French.

- B

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