Sartorial mythbusting

voxsartoria · Jan 14, 2010

Originally Posted by Manton

This is Huntsmanesque.

Oh, come on...there's a bit of drape! And it is made up A&S-ish...just more carefully

.

BTW, the jacket Hitchcock was fitting on you looked really swell across the shoulders.

- B

voxsartoria · Jan 14, 2010

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I like it a lot, Bill. I bet you could go slightly shorter if you wanted, but it looks fantastic as is.

Thank you, young man.

As for shorter, watcha want? Thom Browne?

- B

manofstyle · Jan 14, 2010

Looks very good. Only minor changes I'd make, are slightly shorter jacket, slightly longer trousers, and smaller size of turn-ups.

a tailor · Jan 14, 2010

Originally Posted by Sator

The bias cut shoulder seam is a 19th century tailoring fashion:

It is utterly ridiculous to suggest that by moving the shoulder seam so it is aligned with the shoulder line, that it would affect the fit and balance of a coat. It may improve certain things.

Here is a recent example from A&S that utterly refutes the notion that a bias cut shoulder will result in a better fitting collar:

sorry but i cant see a bias cut shoulder in this photo. it looks like an average shoulder on a man with extreme sloping shoulders. that mess of garbage may be hiding something i cant see.
any way that collar looks as though its a excessive long break line [folding line] that is buckling. on a man that is stooping his head forward.

voxsartoria · Jan 14, 2010

Originally Posted by a tailor

sorry but i cant see a bias cut shoulder in this photo. it looks like an average shoulder on a man with extreme sloping shoulders. that mess of garbage may be hiding something i cant see.
any way that collar looks as though its a excessive long break line [folding line] that is buckling. on a man that is stooping his head forward.

Are these things bad?

- B

aportnoy · Jan 14, 2010

Very nice Bill! I think DBs work especially well for you.

voxsartoria · Jan 14, 2010

Originally Posted by aportnoy

Very nice Bill! I think DBs work especially well for you.

Thanks, brutha.

- B

a tailor · Jan 14, 2010

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Are these things bad?

- B

depends on our point of view.

voxsartoria · Jan 14, 2010

Originally Posted by a tailor

depends on our point of view.

Are you making short jokes? Because if you are, you are impinging on my charter.

- B

TheFoo · Jan 15, 2010

Looks good to me. Like the drape.

a tailor · Jan 15, 2010

Originally Posted by jefferyd

I wouldn't want to subject you to that. Allow me.

The lines in the skirt must hang parallel to each other below the waist- this indicates that the garment is plumb and balanced. If one side is low or high, the lines will not be parallel. If the front is too long, the lines will gape. If it is too short the lines will scissor.

The amount of gaping is considered extreme here.

I think the following is self-explanatory, except in the last shot I pinned up the back. This is A&S, by the way

On whnay, the seat is probably too tight and the strap too long. I would let out he seat and shorten the strap (like the second shot) which would bring the coat into balance but the fronts would be too closed for his taste so I would redraw the shape of the curve to look like the Astaire coat.

indeed the front is too long and also the shoulder is too crooked.
the fitter ignored this and just took in the sides when the lower back pooched out.
thats why the sides fit smoothly. there is not enough inside to correct all of this.
an entire new jacket is in order.

a tailor · Jan 15, 2010

Originally Posted by mafoofan

John Hitchcock himself, from his visit to NYC in October:

I think his suit looks great, but I wonder what some of our resident tailor members think. More info on the visit in my blog.

he is bending foreward, in effect making the strap longer.
notice the stripes at the bottom spread out.
like on the brown sport coat.

a tailor · Jan 15, 2010

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

WindowpaneCrotchShotsâ„¢:

Even when whnay. gets a more perpendicular shot, I have the feeling that the pattern will not right itself that much...but, we'll see.

I suppose it is possible that there was an intent when the the jacket was cut to splay the windowpane out to the sides...but that's a rather unusual decision, and somewhat Dr. Seus. If, on the other hand, the windowpane was meant to present itself normally, something odd is definitely happening.

Moreover, since pattern expresses the grain of the fabric as Despos notes, it's not just a matter of appearence (that is, if it were a solid Breanish, no problem...but not really.)

- B

on all three jackets the bottom and pockets are parallel with the plaid pattern. only the brown jacket droops in front. it needs to be shortened at the top.

Doxe · Jan 15, 2010

Originally Posted by a tailor

only the brown jacket droops in front. it needs to be shortened at the top.

Is it possible to shorten a jacket without completely recutting it?

I had a jacket cut for me once and the tailor did not believe that I have an erect stance (maybe he thought I was standing up too straight because I was in front of a mirror). Sure enough at the first fitting the front was short and the back was long (the opposite of what you diagnose on whnay.'s breanish). The tailor ended up recutting the jacket.

But that was a basted fitting, whnay.'s jacket is finished.

What I'm trying to ask, in a roundabout way, is whether there is an easy solution to what you see as a problem (and others may not)?

jefferyd · Jan 15, 2010

No, not easy.

Your coat, on the other hand, shouldn't have needed a recut unless he really goofed; we normally leave enough so that this sort of adjustment can be done at the fitting stage.

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