The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

Originally Posted by munchausen

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Where would Yves Saint Laurent rank?

Anywhere between 17th & 20th place overall, it's been mentioned in the thread several times.

Glad to see you're following along.

I saw someone requested a rating for J. Crew's suits but no one has been able to weigh in on them yet.

A Loro Piana wool suit with a decently slim cut for about $350 (assuming a 30% discount). I'm not an expert, but I think this would qualify for the "Satisfactory" rating.

What about Boss Selection?

The website claims they are fully canvassed, but when I examined a couple in the store, I swear it felt like half canvassing. Very similar to the BB half canvassed line. Of course, the sales associate said it was fully canvassed, but so does the Boss website.

Didn't have any scissors on me otherwise.... JK.

Originally Posted by phxlawstudent

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What about Boss Selection? The website claims they are fully canvassed, but when I examined a couple in the store, I swear it felt like half canvassing. Very similar to the BB half canvassed line. Of course, the sales associate said it was fully canvassed, but so does the Boss website. Didn't have any scissors on me otherwise.... JK.
On impulse, I bought a black Boss Selection to wear for NYE a couple of years ago. I was stupid enough to pay full price and regret it more than any other suit I own. It is without a doubt half canvassed. Considering their price, I would put them near the bottom of the list. The quality is lower than a $600 BB fitzgerald. (Edit- not saying the fitz is poor quality, just that at twice the price, I would expect the Boss to be much better than the fitz. Not so.)

Originally Posted by brittain

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On impulse, I bought a black Boss Selection to wear for NYE a couple of years ago. I was stupid enough to pay full price and regret it more than any other suit I own. It is without a doubt half canvassed. Considering their price, I would put them near the bottom of the list. The quality is lower than a $600 BB fitzgerald. (Edit- not saying the fitz is poor quality, just that at twice the price, I would expect the Boss to be much better than the fitz. Not so.)

Sorry to hear that. I was at the store, and they were on sale for $800. I was definitely tempted by the slim cut and near perfect OTR fit. Then I felt what I believed to be fusing at the bottom.

Went back with my brother because he wanted to check out the Boss store. Checked again for fusing at the bottom, was pretty sure about it, but the store associate and my brother were vehement.

Thanks for clearing that up, and sorry to hear about the impulse buy going badly. At least its still a nicely cut suit.

Im probably exagerating how bad it is, I just hate wearing it because it reminds me I paid $1400 for a fused suit.

Originally Posted by phxlawstudent

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Sorry to hear that. I was at the store, and they were on sale for $800. I was definitely tempted by the slim cut and near perfect OTR fit. Then I felt what I believed to be fusing at the bottom.

Went back with my brother because he wanted to check out the Boss store. Checked again for fusing at the bottom, was pretty sure about it, but the store associate and my brother were vehement.

Thanks for clearing that up, and sorry to hear about the impulse buy going badly. At least its still a nicely cut suit.

Was thinking, where would RTW Huntsman go?

Interesting - no Cucinelli?

Where would Ferrà go on this list?

Originally Posted by Made in California

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Where would FerrÃ

go on this list?

If you mean the diffusion line thats piled up in mountains at discount stores, probs near the buttom

I see people on here mentioning Armani Classico and Armani Black Label, but no one has mentioned the Armani black label Fatto a Mano suits...
I'm lucky enough to own one (bought from an outlet) and even my old tailor in Paris (who did commissioned work for some of the better brands on rue St Honore) was more than impressed by the craftsmanship on it. My brother has a few Armani Classico suits, and they just aren't a patch on mine... Which makes brotherly competition all the more enjoyable...

How do you factor in suits that have retail prices that aren't justified by the quality but are ALWAYS on sale for 50% off or more?

Originally Posted by Joe Cool

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Anywhere between 17th & 20th place overall, it's been mentioned in the thread several times.

Glad to see you're following along.

How dare he not read through the previous 300 posts to find the answer. The point of this is to make a list so people don't have to dig through pages of posts to find out the quality of each suit manufacturer... Why didn't someone add it?

Originally Posted by PaoloM

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If you mean the diffusion line thats piled up in mountains at discount stores, probs near the buttom

Yeah, that one. The diffusion line. I feel like this list is really heavy on premium brands, and doesn't help me know which brands aren't quality, but are extremely prevalent. I was really hoping to see all the diffusion lines and how they stacked up against each other. I'd like to be able to see whether D&G suits end up being higher quality than Emporio Armani, as an example.

what about vacca? where would it be on the list?

Excellent [*****] (i.e. Suits made this well are far and few between, if money is no object your closet would be full of these. This category should be kept to only a few items)
- Kiton
- Oxxford
-Thom Browne
- Brioni
- Cesare Attolini Napoli (after seen and tried it for the first time, indeed one of the best)
- Luigi Borrelli
- RLPL (not suit maker, a designer brand)
- Luciano Barbera Collezioni Sartoriale
- St Andrew
- Sartoria Partenopea
- Isaia
- D'Avenza
- Sartoria Castangia

Very Good[****] (i.e. Few suits match the quality of the ones in this category).
- Belvest
--Lanvin
-Jil Sander tailor made
- Corneliani Linea Sartoria
- Sartoria Attolini Napoli
- Canali Milano
- (most of Raffaelle Caruso) eg. Sartoria Parma / RL Black Label / RL Signature
- Pal Zileri Sartoriale (I think there is another line higher than Sartoriale, the custom made one, IIRC "Abito Privato", excellent quality)
- Ravazzolo
- Zegna Couture
- Brooks Brothers Golden Fleece
- Borrelli Luxury Vintage


Good[***] (i.e. Quality is superior to most suits).
- Brooks Brothers Black Fleece
- Hickey Freeman Mainline
- Corneliani
- Canali
- K by Canali
- Ermenegildo Zegna
- Samuelsohn
- Paul Smith Mainline (not a suit maker, designer brand - fully canvassed)
- Faconnable Tailleur (also designer brand)
- Cantarelli Tailor
- Etro / Boglioli
- Giorgio Armani (black label)

Satisfactory [**] (i.e. The "Average" Brands. Quality is acceptable).
- Cantarelli
- Brooks Brothers 1818 (half canvassed)
- Paul Smith London (not a suit maker, designer brand - half canvassed)
- H. Freemann
- Benjamin Sartorial
- Hickey Freeman LTD (Half Canvas)
- hickey
- Hackett
- J Crew
- Z-Zegna

Mediocre[*] (Suits that are mediocre)
- Hugo Boss
- Marco Valentino (half canvas) - surprising but I found the VFM is great
- Joseph Abboud
- J. Press
- H&M