Black vs Blue - Blazer Battle!

In one corner we have a Dolce & Gabbana blue blazer in wool and in the other corner we have an Allessandro Gilles black cotton blazer. These are size EU44 or US 34 - I'm 5'7" and about 135lbs.

This will be my first quality jacket and I want one that will not only fit right, but look good and have some versatilty. It would be great if I can dress it up or down, I live in Miami and wouldn't mind looking cool when I go out on occassion or using them for work (I'm a Realtor). I do have an upcoming black tie optional affair that I will use this for as well so suggestions on what to pair with either or both to suit this occasion would be nice. It's a double Bat Mitzvah in upscale NJ, in my mind it is very BT optional if you are under 60.

So, should I have either or both tailored or do I need to keep looking? Please address fit, style, etc as much as possible on both jackets. Obviously sleeve length is an issue on both. The AG jacket has cheap, plastic buttons that I would want addressed, it also does not have a buttoniere so I would likely have that added too but if feels like it might fit a little better than the DG even if I do prefer the DG's style (and I'll admit the name gets me a little). My only concern with the DG is the jacket length, should I look at even pointier shoes to lengthen my profile or at my height might it just look terrible?


D&G

A Gilles - is the button stance OK? It seems high but I haven't worn a jacket in a long time.

Here are the interiors, I wanted to seperate this out since I'm leaving them full size which I know will require a scroll to view.




I think the interior of the AG is really interesting - I hadn't seen a jacket lined like this before.

You're really going to get dogpiled here, so I'm going to try to sound as polite as possible.

A) Black tie optional doesn't mean you can just wear a coat and odd trousers in lieu of black tie. A tuxedo is still going to be most appropriate. If you really don't want to wear one, you should at least wear a dark suit. Coat and odd trousers is wholly inappropriate for a black tie optional event, no matter how "optional" the black tie is.

B) I share the SF contempt for black, so that's a strike against black already. On top of that, neither coat fits in the shoulders, so they're both out in my opinion. There are other gripes I hold as well, but they're all periphery complaints when the shoulders don't fit.

divots?

In general a blue blazer will be more versatile than black.
A black jacket during the day in Miami doesn't sound good.
For a black tie optional event, go with a dark solid suit rather than a blazer/odd jacket.
The style thing is up to you, but to me the first one is a little flashy and the second a little frumpy.
As for fit, I don't think either are right for you. keep looking.

The black one has some very weird styling cues, like the short center vent and the extremely high gorge. It also doesn't fit you as well as the D+G. That said, they both look small in the shoulders, and the center vents, which usually don't look great, look very bad on these coats, maybe because they're kicking. Also the peak lapels are mildly inappropriate but given your profession and location, it's not horrible.

If you have to keep one, keep the D+G. There are some who will say in Miami the cotton will be cooler, but without knowing the weights of the cloths I'll let you weigh that factor on your own.

Neither of these should go anywhere near a black tie event, but if you have to, the wool navy blazer is at least a recognized classic article of menswear, while a black cotton one is not. Honestly though, I'd just invest in a nice navy suit for the event because a) you will wear it to other things b) it will look okay at black tie optional and c) the alternative is having to choose between security guard and waiter.

You might catch a lot of **** in this thread, but try to ignore it. You will also get good advice.

Looks like we all typed the same thing at the same time.

Forgot about the shoes. You need to get two pairs of nice shoes, brown and black, which should cost you about $600 total, half that if you get them on sale. They should have a round toe and no weird stitching. They will look great and elevate your entire look, and that has nothing to do with elongating your profile or anything like that. It just presents an image of cohesiveness and attention to detail that is especially important for someone who is constantly meeting clients. They will also look better with age, unlike the ones you're wearing, and they will outlast them by many many years.

Those are divits!!!


I've seen the piling in other threads so I know it may come but hey, I need advice as I'm purely a jeans & shirt kinda guy for the most part. I'm a 12k+ poster on other forums so I can take it. Still would prefer to stick to the point

So these are actually too small in the shoulders? I thought the DG was a bit tight but it has those dreaded divots/extends past my real shoulder a touch. It seemed like the 46/36s I tried were a bit loose in most brands except DG Martini/Gold.

As for the black tie thing in my opinion (this is my family) it is VERY optional for under 60. If a blazer and trousers are still not appropriate, OK fair enough and I will try and find a suit that works. I'm 34 not 24 and should make an effort to at least wear appropriate dress. Would a grey or charcoal suit be OK or do I need to stick to a dark/navy blue? I go to few formal events.

I'm planning on buying a nice pair of darker brown, more classic styled shoes to use as well - just wanted to put something on that would be in the neighborhood. First step is jacket or suit!

If I chose a suit, must it be solid color? Or could I try this (it's up one size from the blazer too):

http://www.yoox.com/item.asp?sec=1&Y...R&sts=sr_men80

Originally Posted by Icehawk

Click to expand...

If I chose a suit, must it be solid color? Or could I try this:

http://www.yoox.com/item.asp?sec=1&Y...R&sts=sr_men80

If it's your only suit definitely stick with a solid. As for the color question, my preference would be for navy, but there's nothing wrong with charcoal.

You also seem to be focused on certain well-known designer labels. I would recommend doing a bit more research here on Style Forum. There are a lot of brands out there that are of much better quality than those to which you seem to gravitate, and you can probably find them at a much better price.

...

In general, the slimmer something is, and the lighter the cloth is that it's made out of, the less forgiving it will be to fit issues, and the more it will show divets, pulls, and such. I think that if you had more room in your shoulder, the cloth would not pull as much and dimple like that. Sounds counterintuitive, but if you look at the Rubinacci clients' jackets, which are cut with very full sleeves, you never see any dimpling or evidence of stress on the cloth.

Also in general, the more adventurous the pattern, the less wear you are going to get out of a suit. Think about it. Would you wear that D+G suit to a job interview, to a funeral, to a business meeting? It might get you through the Bat Mitzvah (and even then I think a solid navy or charcoal is better), but for more somber occasions (i.e. those that require a suit), a suit with stripes that fancy is inappropriate. Simple pinstripes can be more versatile, but strike me as more for business and less for play.

To quickly address the designer suit issue - if you can point me to non-designers that make 34/36 I am all ears. However, after going to Nordstrom, Saks, NM and literally a dozen other places - every shop in Bal Harbour and Merrick Park if you know those places - it just isn't happening. Almost universally a 38 is as small as they have - hence my Yoox options as they actually have small sizes. I will admit to enjoying a little name brand but it isn't really that important.

Dewey, it's probably the flash - the DG is definitely a navy. I get it, you hate my shoes that I wouldn't wear with the outfit but what if I used NY Yankees jersey?

*Could* that linked suit be worn to the event or is it just too casual? Remember I am younger and live in Miami, to me that is a suit I see everyday. I'm a bit afraid I'll be stuck wearing an old boxy suit I have that I bought in college...

Not trying to be difficult or argumentative but would like to hear as many opinions as possible while getting some further education.