• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

A Tommy Nutter Thread

itsstillmatt

The Liberator
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Messages
13,969
Reaction score
2,086
16jg213.jpg


What is with the gay '70s pornstar mannequin?
 

voxsartoria

Goon member
Timed Out
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
25,700
Reaction score
180
No reason except my usual tangential motives, but as long as we are mentioning Jagger, here are some 1988 pics of Jagger-era Jerry Hall from LIFE that I like...this is a good a place as any to park them:

15fn0bq.jpg


167qwkm.jpg


5v3w43.jpg


2cr7uhi.jpg


eq9tw7.jpg



- B
 

George

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
2,832
Reaction score
17
Originally Posted by voxsartoria
1983. And Nutter was that way.


- B


Interesting choice of topic. Related to the David Reeves posts?
 

RJman

Posse Member
Dubiously Honored
Spamminator Moderator
Joined
Dec 10, 2004
Messages
19,159
Reaction score
2,086
Originally Posted by iammatt
What is with the gay '70s pornstar mannequin?

Ah yes, from the Stockmann "John Holmes" line.
 

voxsartoria

Goon member
Timed Out
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
25,700
Reaction score
180
Originally Posted by George
Interesting choice of topic. Related to the David Reeves posts?

Well, I have had some conversations on this topic with people from time to time, and a lot of the younger ones have little sense of how extraordinarily full of creativity, ferment, and turmoil post-war tailored fashion was in Britain, and how a lot of that was bound up in the various City and regional traditions of bespoke craftsmanship. Not to mention that British society provided a context of change that was disorienting in many ways.

Italian and French stuff is pretty tame compared to that. Where the French stuff gets wild comes from its feminine couture traditions (at least, that's what I think.) Masculine 20th century peacockery has firmer roots in English tailoring.

Those roots are largely bereft of flowers right now. One of the things that I find interesting about the Reeves stuff is that I think that there is a bud of this in there somewhere. The whole question of how it is executed is a different matter, but I still like seeing evidence of it in things made today.

The universe of things that I like and appreciate is larger than the things that I would wear myself. Not everyone has this point of view.

And what do you think of Jerry Hall in her prime? Strapping, back-breaking Texan gal. Feral and lovely.


- B
 

barims

Distinguished Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2007
Messages
2,318
Reaction score
567
Jerry also starred in Batman, so she's more than fair game here. Also, she'll keep me coming back to this thread now and again

I have a belted leather duster coat in butterscotch from Tommy Nutter (handed down from my father, as ever) that I'm very fond of. The leather is acquiring patinas and cracking a little here and there since it saw some uncomfortable storage during the 90s

I don't see much of Nutter and/or Sexton's work in any of the second hand shops, barring a RTW Tommy Nutter grey glen check DB suit last month at £180. I'd be better off hunting in the States

Cheers, Bill
 

George

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
2,832
Reaction score
17
Originally Posted by voxsartoria
Well, I have had some conversations with people from time to time, and a lot of the younger ones have little sense of how extraordinarily full of creativity, ferment, and turmoil post-war tailored fashion was in Britain, and how a lot of that was bound up in the various City and regional traditions of bespoke craftsmanship.

Italian and French stuff is pretty tame compared to that. Where the French stuff gets wild comes from its feminine couture traditions (at least, that's what I think.) Masculine 20th century peacockery has firmer roots in English tailoring.

Those roots are largely bereft of flowers right now. One of the things that I find interesting about the Reeves stuff is that I think that there is a bud in there somewhere. The whole question of how it is executed is a different matter, but I still like seeing evidence of it in things made today.

The universe of things that I like and appreciate is larger than the things that I would wear myself. Not everyone has this point of view.

And what do you think of Jerry Hall in her prime? Strapping, back-breaking Texan gal.


- B


No, I was referring to the fact that Nutter was more of a 'front' man , Sexton was the the creative force the man with the shears.

Jerry Hall? a very sexy lady then and now. She always reminds of the archetypal southern belle, with that drawl and long hair.

Good topic this, I'm going to get back you as I need to digest what you've written and I struggle with the text editor on this site...!!!
 

voxsartoria

Goon member
Timed Out
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
25,700
Reaction score
180
Originally Posted by barims
I have a belted leather duster coat in butterscotch from Tommy Nutter (handed down from my father, as ever) that I'm very fond of. The leather is acquiring patinas and cracking a little here and there since it saw some uncomfortable storage during the 90s.

Cool. Post a pic of it here if you ever get the chance.


- B
 

voxsartoria

Goon member
Timed Out
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
25,700
Reaction score
180
Originally Posted by George
No, I was referring to the fact that Nutter was more of a 'front' man , Sexton was the the creative force the man with the shears.

You know, the next time I see him, I'm have to remember to ask Edwin for how it worked at Nutters with Sexton and Nutter together.

- B
 

George

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
2,832
Reaction score
17
Originally Posted by voxsartoria
You know, the next time I see him, I'm have to remember to ask Edwin for how it worked at Nutters with Sexton and Nutter together.

- B


You know I've always thought that peculiar, I know tailors are a nomadic breed but DeBoise seems to be at the A&S end of the spectrum yet he apprenticed under Sexton who's an altogether more flamboyant cutter.
 

voxsartoria

Goon member
Timed Out
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
25,700
Reaction score
180
Originally Posted by George
You know I've always thought that peculiar, I know tailors are a nomadic breed but DeBoise seems to be at the A&S end of the spectrum yet he apprenticed under Sexton who's an altogether more flamboyant cutter.

On Edwin's first week at A&S coming out of Nutters, Colin Harvey (I think it was Harvey and not Halberry) asked him to draft a pattern and cut for a client, just to see what he could do and to see if he should be an undercutter to learn the A&S style. And you know back then, they did rock of eye. No block patterns; no square (Edwin still drafts this way.) Harvey also drafted a pattern for the same client as a test. Harvey was quite the old school tyrant, I believe...if he didn't like what someone cut, he would take their work and run it through his sheers and have them do it all over again.

Harvey placed Edwin's pattern on his, and the match was essentially exact. That was enough for Harvey to assign Edwin right away as a cutter in his own right in the shop.

So, I imagine that some degree of natural talent and education are involved. I think Edwin's father, who was also a cutter, would draft patterns directly on cloth. Edwin's brother is also a cutter, and Edwin's son is apprenticing with him right now.


- B
 

George

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
2,832
Reaction score
17
Originally Posted by voxsartoria
On Edwin's first week at A&S coming out of Nutters, Colin Harvey (I think it was Harvey and not Halberry) asked him to draft a pattern and cut for a client, just to see what he could do and to see if he should be an undercutter to learn the A&S style. And you know back then, they did rock of eye. No block patterns; no square (Edwin still drafts this way.) Harvey also drafted a pattern for the same client as a test. Harvey was quite the old school tyrant, I believe...if he didn't like what someone cut, he would take their work and run it through his sheers and have them do it all over again. Harvey placed Edwin's pattern on his, and the match was essentially exact. That was enough for Harvey to assign Edwin right away as a cutter in his own right in the shop. So, I imagine that some degree of natural talent and education are involved. I think Edwin's father, who was also a cutter, would draft patterns directly on cloth. Edwin's brother is also a cutter, and Edwin's son is apprenticing with him right now. - B
I heard Sexton is the best cutter there is and I've heard that off more than one tailor. The British produce the best cutters on the planet, other deficiences notwithstanding.
 

comrade

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 10, 2005
Messages
8,944
Reaction score
2,239
Originally Posted by voxsartoria
No reason except my usual tangential motives, but as long as we are mentioning Jagger, here are some 1988 pics of Jagger-era Jerry Hall from LIFE that I like...this is a good a place as any to park them:

15fn0bq.jpg


167qwkm.jpg


5v3w43.jpg


2cr7uhi.jpg


eq9tw7.jpg



- B


Another proof of God !
Vox, you are a cunning proselytizer.
 

George

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
2,832
Reaction score
17
Originally Posted by voxsartoria
Well, I have had some conversations on this topic with people from time to time, and a lot of the younger ones have little sense of how extraordinarily full of creativity, ferment, and turmoil post-war tailored fashion was in Britain, and how a lot of that was bound up in the various City and regional traditions of bespoke craftsmanship. Not to mention that British society provided a context of change that was disorienting in many ways. Italian and French stuff is pretty tame compared to that. Where the French stuff gets wild comes from its feminine couture traditions (at least, that's what I think.) Masculine 20th century peacockery has firmer roots in English tailoring. Those roots are largely bereft of flowers right now. One of the things that I find interesting about the Reeves stuff is that I think that there is a bud of this in there somewhere. The whole question of how it is executed is a different matter, but I still like seeing evidence of it in things made today. The universe of things that I like and appreciate is larger than the things that I would wear myself. Not everyone has this point of view. And what do you think of Jerry Hall in her prime? Strapping, back-breaking Texan gal. Feral and lovely. - B
There is a very long tradition of crafts in Britain as there is in Europe; you see this in the ancient guilds, many of which stem back to medieval times. The origin of the word guild I believe is German, another country where craftsmanship is deeply ingrained in the national psyche. There a spirit of rebellion in the British, and that’s what you are seeing in that tailoring, it’s rebellion, it’s a big **** you to the establishment, tailors like Sexton were working class kids who were expressing themselves through their craft. It’s always been the working classes who’ve been the most creative in Britain, the upper classes and aristocracy provided the patronage, the middle classes did, well what the middle classes always do, just talked about it.
wink.gif
Italian tailoring does nothing for me from a creative perspective. Yes, they sew a better buttonhole, but so what? Where's the flamboyance, the verve the innovation, they're too wrapped up in the concept of fare bella figura. You will not find many Brits who can afford bespoke patronising Italian tailors, too bland, nice ties though. I like the French, even though their tailoring is now non-de script, think Pierre Cardan meets Groundhog day, however, they more than make up for it in other ways. I don’t think the roots are bereft of flowers as you put it. Britain has an incredibly rich heritage of tailoring to call upon, once you’ve found your tailor you’ve just got to know which buttons to push, that’s all. You see this latent flamboyance peeking through on Savile Row with the work of Andrew Ramroop and Richard Anderson, if you spread your wings a bit farther into Soho and beyond take a look at the work of Mark Powell, Chris Kerr and numerous others, then spread your wings even further and...There’s a tremendous amount of talent and creativity out there, you just need the balls or inclination to tap into it. Yes, there is a universe of things to like, and I, like you, like many things even though I wouldn’t wear them myself. Interesting topic I hope to continue it...
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 55 35.5%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 60 38.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 17 11.0%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 27 17.4%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 28 18.1%

Forum statistics

Threads
505,161
Messages
10,579,012
Members
223,882
Latest member
anykadaimeni
Top