The StyleForum Working Hierarchical Suit Quality List (SFWHSQL!)

TheFoo · Nov 17, 2009

Originally Posted by Fuuma

Yeah they switched but I'm not sure the Japan-made new production will be inferior, we'll see. It's not like his current offerings pale compared to Isaia or Brioni and they are clearly above black fleece.

-If HermÃ¨s is stillmade by Belvest we could put them in the same category.
-Dior homme was pretty good, going from beyond anything on that list (couture embroidery) to at least "good".
-Lanvin fabrics are often custom and IMHO, more interesting than those from other brands.
-Jil Sander: I'm talking about the RTW "tailor made" line not MtM, not sure who makes it anymore. Mine looks good and is well made but it's a fine example of Teutonic design minimalism (no sleeve buttons, discrete stitching, etc).

Hmm, I get the sense you are measuring quality by different criteria than have been used to construct much of this list. I'm not sure how much embroidery or proprietary fabrics can really be compared to the amount and quality of structural hand-stitiching.

Fuuma · Nov 17, 2009

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Hmm, I get the sense you are measuring quality by different criteria than have been used to construct much of this list. I'm not sure how much embroidery or proprietary fabrics can really be compared to the amount and quality of structural hand-stitiching.

I did not even propose Dior Homme, it was merely an example. Couture embroidery makes Kiton handwork and prices look like bargain basement deals.

TheFoo · Nov 17, 2009

Originally Posted by Fuuma

I did not even propose Dior Homme, it was merely an example. Couture embroidery makes Kiton handwork and prices look like bargain basement deals.

Oh, I wasn't questioning you, just pointing out that embroidery probably didn't register in most of the calculus that went into the list as it stands.

Pezzaturra · Nov 17, 2009

Who makes suits and sport coats for Tom Ford? Tom Ford should be somewhere on that list just for making gorgeous YSL inspired menswear.

furo · Nov 17, 2009

Originally Posted by Fuuma

It's not like his current offerings pale compared to Isaia or Brioni and they are clearly above black fleece.

So seeing that Isaia and Brioni are in the same category in this list, what sets the price points so far apart? Is it the embroidery? Because Isaia seem to retail for 1/2 that of Brioni on average.

GiltEdge · Nov 17, 2009

Originally Posted by Pezzaturra

Who makes suits and sport coats for Tom Ford? Tom Ford should be somewhere on that list just for making gorgeous YSL inspired menswear.

Zegna, still wondering who makes everything else. Last I heard it was still Zegna...

Hmmm Zegna makes for YSL, Gucci and TF

ChicagoRon · Nov 17, 2009

Originally Posted by furo

So seeing that Isaia and Brioni are in the same category in this list, what sets the price points so far apart? Is it the embroidery? Because Isaia seem to retail for 1/2 that of Brioni on average.
I'm interested to hear what the people who actually KNOW will say, but my bet is MARKETING.

gdl203 · Nov 17, 2009

Originally Posted by ChicagoRon

I'm interested to hear what the people who actually KNOW will say, but my bet is MARKETING.

I don't know that I'm in the KNOW but owning garments from both, and on the merits of the garments only, I have no rational explanation why Brioni should be worth more than Isaia. I'd argue the opposite, actually.

Fuuma · Nov 17, 2009

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Oh, I wasn't questioning you, just pointing out that embroidery probably didn't register in most of the calculus that went into the list as it stands.

I don't think any of our forum members own garments baller enough to comment on couture embroidery.

gdl203 · Nov 17, 2009

Originally Posted by Fuuma

I don't think any of our forum members own garments baller enough to comment on couture embroidery.

IIRC, you have a Thierry Mugler embroidered thong, don't you?

sho'nuff · Nov 17, 2009

Originally Posted by gdl203

I don't know that I'm in the KNOW but owning garments from both, and on the merits of the garments only, I have no rational explanation why Brioni should be worth more than Isaia. I'd argue the opposite, actually.

im sincerely asking why you cannot explain why a brioni should be worth more than isaia? im no suit /fabrics expert, but i can see from plain sight and feel, that brioni is empirically at least a couple of notches above isaia in fabric quality at least.

Fuuma · Nov 17, 2009

Originally Posted by gdl203

IIRC, you have a Thierry Mugler embroidered thong, don't you?

Nah, they're studs. Mugler said "studs" and thongs symbolize the new direction his designs have taken.

gdl203 · Nov 17, 2009

Originally Posted by sho'nuff

im sincerely asking why you cannot explain why a brioni should be worth more than isaia? im no suit /fabrics expert, but i can see from plain sight and feel, that brioni is empirically at least a couple of notches above isaia in fabric quality at least.

Sorry but I don't see that at all. You may be comparing fabrics that are not comparable (e.g. worsted vs. cashmere mix...)?

sho'nuff · Nov 17, 2009

Originally Posted by gdl203

Sorry but I don't see that at all. You may be comparing fabrics that are not comparable (e.g. worsted vs. cashmere mix...)?

no im talking about fabric/fabric content to fabric/fabric content

100% wool worsted.
i dont know about the grades though, im not sure isaia has some of the grades brioni has. ive only seen super 120s /130s for isaia wool worsted. and they are fine.

but the worsted ive seen is like buttery cashmere-like on the brionis ive seen but it may be a higher grade wool.

and about 100% cashmere, ive seen isaia coats that are made from that and they are nice, but the brioni ones ive seen are truly superlative.

gdl203 · Nov 17, 2009

I don't have such an experience of empirically superlative cloth quality with Brioni. I'm selling a Brioni right now so I have no interest in saying otherwise but - nope - sorry, nothing notably different IMO. No butter.

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