A&S

Michael Ay329 · Oct 30, 2009

Is the allure of A&S solely to their drape style jacket?

Is there anything out of the ordinary about their vests or trousers?

Manton, did you purchase only a jacket, or did you do a 2 or 3 piece suit?

M. Charles · Oct 30, 2009

Originally Posted by Manton

It is not strictly necessary, but they often go together.

So one could request at A&S that the shoulder not be extended past the actual shoulder and still get the same amount of drape?

comrade · Oct 31, 2009

Originally Posted by M. Charles

I don't really have a dog in this fight, but what do you think about this experience with A&S (silhouette #1). Not everyone who goes into A&S knows as much as you, and so what you get may vary.

Silhouette #1 would be perfect if had a slightly more nipped waist.
As far as the fabric, I don't think that it would grow on me.

RJman · Oct 31, 2009

I approve of this threak.

OxxfordSJLINY · Oct 31, 2009

Originally Posted by Manton

5) Quality of sewing is excellent. Not Rubinacci (or Solito) but very, very good. Handsewn intercollars, not just chest pieces. Marvellous buttonholes.

Actually, A&S sewing quality, though excellent, is not up to the sewing quality of all of the high end Italian tailors (including the one and only branch of Campagna-which is in Milan and all four branches of Caraceni-three of which are in Milan and only one of which is in Rome) in the world (regardless of whether they are in Italy or in any country in the world other than Italy).

Objectively (meaning that it is fact-in this case, entirely so), all Italian custom tailoring is in a class by itself, when it comes to every conceivable aspect of quality other than appearance, comfort, drape, fit and shape (which, physically, varies tremendously depending on the person and therefore, is entirely subjective).

Manton · Oct 31, 2009

Originally Posted by OxxfordSJLINY

Actually, A&S sewing quality, though excellent, is not up to the sewing quality of all of the high end Italian tailors (including the one and only branch of Campagna-which is in Milan and all four branches of Caraceni-three of which are in Milan and only one of which is in Rome) in the world (regardless of whether they are in Italy or in any country in the world other than Italy).

Objectively (meaning that it is fact-in this case, entirely so), all Italian custom tailoring is in a class by itself when it comes to every conceivable aspect of quality other than appearance, comfort, drape, fit and shape (which, physically, varies tremendously depending on the person and therefore, is entirely subjective).

Considering that you base all your posts such as this solely on what you read from people who actually use these tailors (none of whose products you have ever seen with your own eyes, much less worn, as you yourself are first to admit), perhaps you ought to be a bit more circumspect.

Just a thought.

OxxfordSJLINY · Oct 31, 2009

Originally Posted by Manton

Considering that you base all your posts such as this solely on what you read from people who actually use these tailors (none of whose products you have ever seen with your own eyes, much less worn, as you yourself are first to admit), perhaps you ought to be a bit more circumspect.

Just a thought.

There is nothing wrong with trusting other people’s judgment when the sources are reliable (especially if I will never have the means-in too many ways to specify-to see in person or wear such phenomenal clothing myself).

Cary Grant · Oct 31, 2009

Thks for this threak, Manton.

While I have ordered nothing with them, I spent a few hours there on two trips this summer getting to know them.

I have -nothing- from my own experience to base my impressions on other than examinations of other houses on the row. I like what I saw, the experience while there and came away confident (but without experience perhaps I'd better say naively hopeful?) that they could do what I want.

Manton · Oct 31, 2009

Originally Posted by OxxfordSJLINY

There is nothing wrong with trusting other people's judgment when the sources are reliable (especially if I will never have the means-in too many ways to specify-to see in person or wear such phenomenal clothing myself).

When you say "Objectively (meaning that it is fact-in this case, entirely so), all Italian custom tailoring is in a class by itself when it comes to every conceivable aspect of quality" you are not trusting the judgement of others, because no one says or believes that. It is also incidentally not true.

If you want my opinion, it is that, on average, Italian sewing in high end tailoring is better than English sewing, and the best Italian makers are better than the best Brits, but one cannot universalize that into a rule that applies to all cases. I have seen some sloppy Italian work, and some excellent English work.

aportnoy · Oct 31, 2009

Originally Posted by OxxfordSJLINY

There is nothing wrong with trusting other people's judgment when the sources are reliable (especially if I will never have the means-in too many ways to specify-to see in person or wear such phenomenal clothing myself).

This is like saying that a dish at a certain restaurant or the performance and handling of a certain car is the best in the world without having experienced it yourself. It just doesn't wash.

jon5986 · Oct 31, 2009

I have never had a problem with A&S. Their product is great and I am always very happy with it.

John Hitchcock is a true professional.

JibranK · Oct 31, 2009

Originally Posted by OxxfordSJLINY

Actually, A&S sewing quality, though excellent, is not up to the sewing quality of all of the high end Italian tailors (including the one and only branch of Campagna-which is in Milan and all four branches of Caraceni-three of which are in Milan and only one of which is in Rome) in the world (regardless of whether they are in Italy or in any country in the world other than Italy).

Objectively (meaning that it is fact-in this case, entirely so), all Italian custom tailoring is in a class by itself, when it comes to every conceivable aspect of quality other than appearance, comfort, drape, fit and shape (which, physically, varies tremendously depending on the person and therefore, is entirely subjective).
I mean no offence by this, Audi/Oxxford, but your constant posts of inorganic categorising/grading of bespoke houses are really beginning to grate on me.

Connemara · Oct 31, 2009

Can't wait to see pics. Which fabric?

Cary Grant · Oct 31, 2009

Originally Posted by JibranK

inorganic

Inorganic?

Ataturk · Oct 31, 2009

Every time someone recommends A&S I think of that poor guy from the london lounge who posted the "three tailors mystery thread" or whatever it was called a while back. It was not my favorite to say the least.

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