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Hey, I am interested in picking up a pair of kmw 1980s and was wondering if I should consider sizing down to compensate for potential stretching. Do they stretch as much as apcs or should I just order actual waist size thanks

Originally Posted by flyguy25

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Hey, I am interested in picking up a pair of kmw 1980s and was wondering if I should consider sizing down to compensate for potential stretching. Do they stretch as much as apcs or should I just order actual waist size thanks
Actual waist or size down one; most go the former.

Originally Posted by whodini

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I honestly can't think of indigo jeans that are up on that "high-end" tier that don't use contrast stitching and are worth their price. Nudie does some monochrome stuff for a few models (the navy Even Steven comes to mind) but the denim they use isn't anything to write home about. I'm sure other mid-level designers offer similar stuff but the problem again would be with the denim.

I think you might need to make a concession somewhere...
when you say "the denim they use isn't anything to write home about," are you saying you don't like the denim quality? at the moment, i think as long as the denim isn't light and flimsy, i'm sure most of the denim here will be more than wearable. it doesn't need to be super high quality. the look is most important for me at the moment.

if nudie makes an indigo regular straight-leg with tonal stitching, i might be interested since the back pocket stitching won't be that noticeable, and if it is, i can just remove the stitching.

Originally Posted by dswang

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I recently bought a pair of KMW one wash Rockers in a size 31. I just got them the other day and tried them on, and the top block could be tighter by an inch in both the waist and the thigh. Will a soak make these dimensions smaller? I dunno since these are one wash, and presumably sanforized. If so, should I cold soak or hot soak? Thanks in advance.

That's the one drawback to KMW, which aeglus has already experienced. It's the same problem with all the cuts, and even more pronounced with the latest '09 batch.

Mine all have the same loose top block, and no washing or soaking will resolve it. I'm assuming they intended this to work better with Western body types, but I don't have much rear-end to speak of. It really works against you if you want to develop good contrast fades in the lap.

Come to love them for what they are.

Originally Posted by Ctrl+W

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hi, my girlfriend just dumped me and i need to buy some jeans to ease the pain.


it should:

a. be dark blue raw or at least look dark blue raw (i want the look, not the fades)
b. have dark stitching (i want a classier look without the more casual contast stitching)
c. plain back pockets (so definitely no ass dragons, the letter "r," or horseshoes)
d. not be light/flimsy denim
e. be a straight-leg (bootcut could work too if it isn't too tight in the thighs because i can taper the bootcut)

thanks in advanced!

A few ideas:

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/inde...mart&Itemid=28

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/inde...mart&Itemid=28

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/inde...mart&Itemid=28

Originally Posted by Ctrl+W

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when you say "the denim they use isn't anything to write home about," are you saying you don't like the denim quality? at the moment, i think as long as the denim isn't light and flimsy, i'm sure most of the denim here will be more than wearable. it doesn't need to be super high quality. the look is most important for me at the moment.

if nudie makes an indigo regular straight-leg with tonal stitching, i might be interested since the back pocket stitching won't be that noticeable, and if it is, i can just remove the stitching.

I wouldnt mind removing the back pocket stitching from my Nudies... how exactly do you go about this? Just curious...

Originally Posted by mlyngard

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A few ideas:

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/inde...mart&Itemid=28

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/inde...mart&Itemid=28

http://blueingreensoho.com/site/inde...mart&Itemid=28
awesome! the first 2 are pretty much what i want (only way it could be better is if these won't fade, but that's probably asking too much lol...these look beautiful though)!

now i just gotta find out my size, how much they stretch, and how they fit. and what blue in green's return policy is, haha.

edit: is it safe to assume that the fading properties described for the 007 is the same for the 010?

some of the Pure Blue jeans on the Blue In Green website is listed as "One Wash." does that mean it won't fade because it was already washed once?

Originally Posted by mlyngard

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A few ideas: http://blueingreensoho.com/site/inde...mart&Itemid=28 http://blueingreensoho.com/site/inde...mart&Itemid=28 http://blueingreensoho.com/site/inde...mart&Itemid=28
The xx010s are a bad choice. They look much more purple than blue (and I know this from experience... I'm wearing them right now) and have purple (like the weft color) stitching Both the xx010 and the xx007 will fade white (and it's generally a high contrast fade) iirc the Sunrise jeans have a grey hue

Originally Posted by splattered

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I wouldnt mind removing the back pocket stitching from my Nudies... how exactly do you go about this? Just curious...
Go to any craft/fabric store and buy a seam ripper, then just go to town. Should only take a few minutes tops

Originally Posted by Ctrl+W

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awesome! the first 2 are pretty much what i want (only way it could be better is if these won't fade, but that's probably asking too much lol...these look beautiful though)! now i just gotta find out my size, how much they stretch, and how they fit. and what blue in green's return policy is, haha. edit: is it safe to assume that the fading properties described for the 007 is the same for the 010?
As stated before, 007 and 010 fade to white. You may be able to stave off fading for a while by using salt in the wash [if you can handwash that'd be best] and hang drying them, basically just try to remove friction. I stand by my previous statement, however, in that you really shouldn't be looking towards any raw denim if you don't want fades. Even IH/3W fade (albeit with a long fight)

if i dry clean, will that prevent fading?

also, yeah, i did some looking around and those PBJ do look purple instead of dark blue.

Originally Posted by flyguy25

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Hey, I am interested in picking up a pair of kmw 1980s and was wondering if I should consider sizing down to compensate for potential stretching. Do they stretch as much as apcs or should I just order actual waist size thanks

Stretch will be an inch or less. The denim is soft and pliable, so a snug waist won't be uncomfortable. KMW will be slightly more generous in the top block too, compared to other raws I own, so snug in the waist doesn't mean ball-crunchers.

Sizing down one is something I did, with excellent results. See Context's size charts for actual measured size versus tagged size. There's a one inch difference or more. For example, I have 1980s that are tagged 29, which Context says are 30 measured. I measured mine new, and they were closer to 31".

Size chart:

http://www.contextclothing.com/item.php?id=481

Originally Posted by Ctrl+W

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some of the Pure Blue jeans on the Blue In Green website is listed as "One Wash." does that mean it won't fade because it was already washed once?

nope. they will fade. all denim will fade to some degree. there really is no getting around it

I have an actual waist of 30.5... bought a pair of tagged 27 s5000vx (off sufu) and they measure 28 waist exactly after all the shrinking and a few months wear by the previous owner. Will these stretch enough or should I cut my losses and sell? I didn't think my waist was that big until I measured it recently since I'm a really skinny guy. I used to just guess based on tagged size for my other raws (which worked until now).

Thanks aeglus and mlyngard for your replies.

I do have a butt, so it doesn't look too bad as-is; however, the thighs are just not tight enough as you mentioned. I am short, so extra bagginess is not going to work for me. I'm thinking I may just take them to the tailor to get them slimmed down overall, since I need to hem them anyway. My tailor did a great job on some RB11s so perhaps she can work her magic on these as well. I could sell them too and take a hit on them, but might as well put that money to good use at the tailor.

From what I've read, these are sanforized. Since they are also one-wash, I don't think I'll have to soak them at all before altering them to my liking.

Originally Posted by Ctrl+W

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if i dry clean, will that prevent fading?

also, yeah, i did some looking around and those PBJ do look purple instead of dark blue.
No. I suggest you do a search on here for the newbie guide on denim thread. There are a lot of answers in a single post.