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Jacket Appreciation

Manton

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
An incredibly elegant one. Plus, all the seams are lapped--sprezzatura!

99% sure mine is the same cloth after all. Different facings, though.
 

LawrenceMD

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Sooooo ... pretty...

the thing with those stitches done by hand is that it doesn't look as neat as something a machine would do... which is actually a good thing because it actually moves better in natural movements.

it even works in surgery... sutures that look super neat and symmetrical sometimes don't heal well and produce a scar.. but the sutures that go with the natural tug and grain of the skin (and look less neat) heal perfect and move perfectly and naturally even with motion.
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by Manton
99% sure mine is the same cloth after all. Different facings, though.

Did you wind up going with midnight blue or black for the facings?

Originally Posted by LawrenceMD
Sooooo ... pretty...

the thing with those stitches done by hand is that it doesn't look as neat as something a machine would do... which is actually a good thing because it actually moves better in natural movements.

it even works in surgery... sutures that look super neat and symmetrical sometimes don't heal well and produce a scar.. but the sutures that go with the natural tug and grain of the skin (and look less neat) heal perfect and move perfectly and naturally even with motion.


Interestingly, the hand-stitching is easiest to see on my dinner jacket. It is less obvious in my tweed jackets and suits because the fabric isn't as smooth.
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by dopey
But if I did order one, how are you guys liking your midnight blue mohair mix?
Any regrets?


I like it a lot. I can't see using it for a regular suit, but it's nice having something different for a dinner jacket. It has a nice, subtle sheen at night and looks very black. However, you should be ready for it to look distinctly blue during the day--I'm fine with that, but I imagine many wouldn't be.
 

Manton

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I got black facings. It's a fancier ottoman silk with alternating wide and narrow ribs. I like it a lot.

I love the mohair cloth. Really perfect for a DJ.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
Look, Ma! All long seams done by hand!

dinnerjacket3.jpg



Wonderful. I think that you mean, however, that the topstitching is by hand...the actual seam might be machine sewn.

I have to admit that at first glance, I kinda hated the decorative edge stitching on dinner jacket lapels. In the context of the topstitching elswewhere on your number, though, I like it.

You've inspired me to post some closeups of my Steed DB DJ tomorrow. It will feature an especially porny set of lapel buttonholes...the creamiest, most meticulous ones that I have ever seen from any maker. Completely old school SR...even in the closeups, you'll have hard time seeing the individual stitches...better than old school Brioni.


- B
 

Manton

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She was bubbly and very cool. I know her father, so that made me less of an alien to her, I think, than maybe the average nobody.

I don't think I like the edge pick on foo's shawl lapels.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by Manton
She was bubbly and very cool. I know her father, so that made me less of an alien to her, I think, than maybe the average nobody.

I don't think I like the edge pick on foo's shawl lapels.


My wife really likes her.

I do admit being surprised to see the edge stitching on the Ruby lapels...but we all hope none of us ever get that nose-close to it at a real life evening event. So, it is merely a personal sin or pleasure, except on the Internet where closeup photographs are posted.

What surprises me is that would have thought the Maestro would be more Anglo-conservative about DJ details.


- B
 

TRINI

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How come LH does only 3 buttons on the sleeve vs. 4?

Is this a Neapolitan thing?
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by triniboy27
How come LH does only 3 buttons on the sleeve vs. 4?

Is this a Neapolitan thing?


They do it to f*ck with your mind.

BTW, I miss seeing your gigantic restroom wastbasket.


- B
 

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