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Current opinions on Dege/Whittaker bespoke shirts

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by A Y
Yes, lapped seam sounds right. Each side is folded over to its own side, so it looks symmetric.

I think a lapped seam is when both are folded over to one side, but I could easily be wrong. So, you're saying that, viewed externally, you see the seam and two rows of hand stitching, one on either side?
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by Will
And there is no handwork in a Kabbaz shirt. They are, however, lovingly packaged by hand.

If mailed to their clients, they are also conveyed within machines guided by hand...some of the machines fly.


- B
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
...some of the machines fly.

Apparently, only lying Italians fly their shirts by hand.
 

A Y

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
I think a lapped seam is when both are folded over to one side, but I could easily be wrong. So, you're saying that, viewed externally, you see the seam and two rows of hand stitching, one on either side?

Yes, and the stitching is very fine, like good pick stitching.

--Andre
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
I think a lapped seam is when both are folded over to one side, but I could easily be wrong. So, you're saying that, viewed externally, you see the seam and two rows of hand stitching, one on either side?

Long underarm seams viewed form the inside, striped Borrelli on top and white Kiton on the bottom (click for supersize):



The lapped seam on the Borrelli is machine closed and machine topstitched (and nicely.)

The lapped seam on the Kiton is machine closed, but hand topstitched (the lowest horizontal line of stitching.) If this is really done by hand, and not by some Kiton hand-emulation, it is pretty nice work.


- B
 

whatsinaname

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I think these examples are more often called flat-felled seams in the context of shirts.

Did Borrelli use two different machine stitch lengths to prove that the shirt was single-needle sewn? If so, hilarious.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria
Long underarm seams viewed form the inside, striped Borrelli on top and white Kiton on the bottom (click for supersize):
The lapped seam on the Borrelli is machine closed and machine topstitched (and nicely.)

The lapped seam on the Kiton is machine closed, but hand topstitched (the lowest horizontal line of stitching.) If this is really done by hand, and not by some Kiton hand-emulation, it is pretty nice work.

- B
 

A Y

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That looks different than the Kiton I saw in a N-M last year around Christmas, but perhaps my memory is failing me. Manton and Matt were there as well, and may remember better.

Do you have a picture of the side body seam?

--Andre
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by A Y
That looks different than the Kiton I saw in a N-M last year around Christmas, but perhaps my memory is failing me. Manton and Matt were there as well, and may remember better.

Do you have a picture of the side body seam?

--Andre


That's all I got for you. These two shirts about about eight or nine years old, though...nearly all my shirts except for the recent batch of Black Fleece OCBDs are eight to fifteen years old.

Ergo, the search for shirtmaker.


- B
 

whnay.

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FWIW - Kiton is having a trunk show at BG tomorrow. Foo want don't you go and have a look.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by whnay.
FWIW - Kiton is having a trunk show at BG tomorrow. Foo want don't you go and have a look.

Do you propose a Head Mounted FooCam, or a little spy camera replacing one of his Ambrosi fly buttons?


- B
 

hws

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Originally Posted by Will
And there is no handwork in a Kabbaz shirt.
This is not correct, the button is attach of hand, and the monogram is sewn of hand.
 

binge

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
If mailed to their clients, they are also conveyed within machines guided by hand...some of the machines fly.

If not guided by hand, then at least guidance systems coded by hand...for now.

And here are some close-ups of the sleeve seam on the white RTW Kiton I got at Wilkes two years ago.

Outer seam
1.jpg

2.jpg


Inner seam
3.jpg

4.jpg
 

whnay.

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
Do you propose a Head Mounted FooCam, or a little spy camera replacing one of his Ambrosi fly buttons?
- B

I want to see something other than the floor...
 

RJman

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Originally Posted by whnay.
I want to see something other than the floor...

And wouldn't you worry if they mounted the camera facing the wrong way?
 

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