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Images from The London Cut

pejsek

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria

English tailoring is inventive and deep in a way Italian tailoring is not.

Yeah: I said that. Who wants to fight me?


- B


If this is the manifesto, I'll sign. It's a good (if mildly provocative) way to put it. I reach for Italian clothes as much as anything these days, in part precisely because they are less loaded and complicated and, hence, more easily understood. English tailoring can be downright odd and perplexing and I guess that's largely because it draws from a deeper well of both experience and creativity. One may be the master; the other the facile pupil and craftsman.

Am I walking the line?
 

Parker

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No, no. I just meant in general. It's nice to have threads like these (good quality images, historical significance) occasionally to remember how inspiring great clothing can be.
 

axe

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Originally Posted by pejsek
If this is the manifesto, I'll sign. It's a good (if mildly provocative) way to put it. I reach for Italian clothes as much as anything these days, in part precisely because they are less loaded and complicated and, hence, more easily understood. English tailoring can be downright odd and perplexing and I guess that's largely because it draws from a deeper well of both experience and creativity. One may be the master; the other the facile pupil and craftsman. Am I walking the line?
That isn't particularly fair to the Italians, since the country itself is a remarkably recent creation. I think the medieval city-states of the Italian peninsula had better things to do than busy themselves with pretty clothes, at least in comparison to the Britain of the time, which was relatively safe in its isolation, and was probably the richest and most powerful nation of the period. The people of renaissance Italy seemed drawn more to fine art than clothing, anyhow. The Britons never matched them in that regard.
 

tutee

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Originally Posted by iammatt
It is about 20x better looking than the average, closed up A&S jackets, at least to my eyes.

+1000! Still even I like it better if the front quarters are rounded when cutaway like yours, especially for sport coats.
Matt if only all of your posts were this sensible.
tounge.gif


Man Good Heavens! I just realized you have 20000+ posts in 3 years? How do you manage this?

BTW Kudos to Vox for posting these. Good images, although many are impractical for us but still a visual treat.
 

itsstillmatt

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Originally Posted by tutee
Man Good Heavens! I just realized you have 20000+ posts in 3 years? How do you manage this?
They include the amount of thought that goes into 1000 posts by a normal person.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by Parker
No, no. I just meant in general. It's nice to have threads like these (good quality images, historical significance) occasionally to remember how inspiring great clothing can be.

I was just kidding.

Originally Posted by axe
That isn't particularly fair to the Italians, since the country itself is a remarkably recent creation.

The people of renaissance Italy seemed drawn more to fine art than clothing, anyhow. The Britons never matched them in that regard.


I wasn't trying to be fair or unfair, just accurate.

Originally Posted by pejsek
If this is the manifesto, I'll sign. It's a good (if mildly provocative) way to put it. I reach for Italian clothes as much as anything these days, in part precisely because they are less loaded and complicated and, hence, more easily understood. English tailoring can be downright odd and perplexing and I guess that's largely because it draws from a deeper well of both experience and creativity. One may be the master; the other the facile pupil and craftsman.

Am I walking the line?


Yes, you are. I think that what explains it is that English city and country tailoring arose from a stable anthill culture, with forms that were mature, settled, and geared to the complexities of class and position. Yet, even into the modern age, you can see an exuberance and verve to the English bespoke arts that are almost entirely absent from Italian bespoke makers.

In contrast to the source, the Italians became oddly dour after their immitative period between the great wars.

Yeah: I said that. Who wants to fight me?

Originally Posted by tutee
Man Good Heavens! I just realized you have 20000+ posts in 3 years? How do you manage this?

Even more startling, 93% of those posts were within the last three months. I have already contacted the authorities, and they are sending the white van for him.

Originally Posted by tutee
BTW Kudos to Vox for posting these. Good images, although many are impractical for us but still a visual treat.

My pleasure.

- B
 

No.XIII

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Sooo... maanyyy... niceeee... sartorial... pieces...under..a... roof
Must...resist...living.. with.. the.. mannequins..
bounce2.gif


Thanks for sharing, Vox! The sight of morning coats and redingotes makes my heart melt.
 

axe

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
I wasn't trying to be fair or unfair, just accurate.
No worries, I was just trying to flesh out the possible historical explanations for your observation (which I agree with, FWIW, although its conclusion seems counter-intuitive at first glance)
 

oscarthewild

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
TOKYO ,,,
07.jpg
08.jpg
09.jpg
- B

These tweed suits are amazing. Any chance of a close up? -
 

uppercase

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It's not an A&S if it doesn't have closed front quarters.

This 'Astaire' model was specifically made for Pitti Uomo a few years ago for display on a mannequin, to relate the A&S legacy to its former client Fred Astaire and for promotional purposes at a trade show.

If you like the Astaire cut, you like something other than A&S because this isn't what A&S makes.

What you like is a Neapolitan drape cut made in beautiful English cloth.

And you are right, the Astaire is a beautiful coat. I tried it on at A&S in its basted form and it is magnificent though certainly not as open as it appears in the photo.

I have never seen A&S subsequently produce another Astaire but only the default closed, straight, louche London sack.

However, if you want this silhouette with its dramatic curves, life and movement, the only place I know to find it is Naples.

The English cannot make it: their joints are too stiff and they think linearly.

wink.gif
 

Manton

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I get open quarter drape from an English tailor. No problem.
 

voxsartoria

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Originally Posted by uppercase
It's not an A&S if it doesn't have closed front quarters.

That's what my guy said, although it wasn't the quarters that made him say that. He did say that if one of the departed head cutters at A&S saw it, they would have put the "shears through it."

Originally Posted by uppercase
I have never seen A&S subsequently produce another Astaire but only the default closed, straight, louche London sack.

You should see one shortly since whnay asked for this cut. We'll se...

Originally Posted by uppercase
However, if you want this silhouette with its dramatic curves, life and movement, the only place I know to find it is Naples.

The English cannot make it: their joints are too stiff and they think linearly.

wink.gif


Hmmm...

564520164_2CVkL-X2.jpg


...not A&S...


- B
 

PandArts

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itsstillmatt

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria
Hmmm...
564520164_2CVkL-X2.jpg
...not A&S... - B

But with stiff joints. Nice stiff joints, like an old English codger back in town for the day.
 

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