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Quarter-lined Dinner Jacket: a Stroke of Stupidity or Genius?

whnay.

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Sometimes I really hate this place.

Fooster, I like it a great deal and I'm glad you took a chance on it, me thinks it panned out.
 

Mark from Plano

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Originally Posted by lichmd
I like the overall silhouette but I'm not a fan of the pull that is noticeable on the right side of the jacket. It's visible on the other Ruby DB posted above. The fit is stunning with the exception of the way the cloth is pulled by the right side button. Not sure if it's possible to have a perfectly fitted waist suppressed jacket without it though.

Overall very nice indeed


Assuming this is not just the way he's standing or something, it should be easily fixed, I would think,

That aside, it's hard for me to imagine how this could be much better. I think it's pretty amazing frankly. I completely disagree that the lapels are too wide, just about perfect I'd say.
 

radicaldog

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This seems overall a very handsome dinner suit (or 'smoking', as Rubinacci would call it). That is what one would expect from London House.

Just a few observations (worth $0.02, of course):

1. The grosgrain (?) trim appears to be midnight blue like the cloth of the suit. That's a slightly unusual choice but not an unwise one. But what about the bow tie? It seems black! I do think the tie should match the colour of the trim (a rare case where colour matching is advisable in men's clothing -- which is not to say that it should be made in the same material).

2. The length of the coat is spot on. Taken by itself a lot of people would probably deem it short (well, perhaps not with the current fashion for comically short skirts, but still), but given your figure and the overall look of the suit it is perfect. And so is the button placement.

3. As many have pointed out, the shirt does look out of place (much more so than the shoes, which are OK). What about a proper pique evening shirt with softish collar and single link cuffs? No dress set necessary. I take it you have appropriate cufflinks.

4. The shape of the lapels is handsome and it befits you, even though I have a slight preference for more pear-shaped shawl lapels (you know, the kind that has a bit of belly in the lower part); but perhaps those lapels At any rate your lapels are not too wide, unlike what some here said -- Rubinacci is particularly skilled in making wide lapels that look proportionate and graceful.

5. I just don't know what to think about the quarter lining. I don't see its use, and it might cause the coat to wrinkle more, which you really don't want on evening clothes. But there might be other advantages I don't see.

6. I would definitely add buttonholes on both lapels. Buttonholes make lapels look real, they make them come to life. Even more so in a (sad) world where a lot of people associate shawl lapels to waiters' uniforms.

Congratulations on your new dinner suit!
 

romafan

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
Here it is:

mafoodj-m.jpg


Come on! Is this really even foof?
confused.gif
Looks like a body double...
Attachment 22819

Attachment 22820

Attachment 22821
 

greekonomist

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Foo, I love those lapels. What a great choice. I remember you said it took some persuading to get Mariano on board with the shawl. I don't know what an SB peak would have looked like, but it's hard to imagine it looking better than this. How does MR like it?


On a side note, you look taller and leaner and your head appears smaller.
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by Cary Grant
Maybe I missed it- have you posted pics of the jacket interior?

I'd love a shot that better catches the color of the cloth. (I realize that it's blacker than black in the right light).


I haven't posted pictures of the interior. There's not much to see since I went with a full lining.

Originally Posted by radicaldog
1. The grosgrain (?) trim appears to be midnight blue like the cloth of the suit. That's a slightly unusual choice but not an unwise one. But what about the bow tie? It seems black! I do think the tie should match the colour of the trim (a rare case where colour matching is advisable in men's clothing -- which is not to say that it should be made in the same material).

The trim is, in fact, midnight blue grosgrain. I asked for black grosgrain at first, but Mariano was adamant that black was the more convenient, incorrect option. The bow tie is black grosgain. I like the contrast in color, but I see your point.

Originally Posted by radicaldog
3. As many have pointed out, the shirt does look out of place (much more so than the shoes, which are OK). What about a proper pique evening shirt with softish collar and single link cuffs? No dress set necessary. I take it you have appropriate cufflinks.

I didn't realize the shirt would be so huge a problem! You guys have me convinced: I'll get a proper formal shirt. However, this one will have to do for now. I'm going to weary the ivory cufflinks my wife gave me for our wedding.

Originally Posted by radicaldog
4. The shape of the lapels is handsome and it befits you, even though I have a slight preference for more pear-shaped shawl lapels (you know, the kind that has a bit of belly in the lower part); but perhaps those lapels At any rate your lapels are not too wide, unlike what some here said -- Rubinacci is particularly skilled in making wide lapels that look proportionate and graceful.

Mariano drew these lapels himself. Frankly, I had envisioned lapels like you describe. However, I didn't have too powerful a preference and figured I'd rather let Mariano and Genarro figure out what works best with the jacket in front of them. I'm pleased with the results.

Originally Posted by radicaldog
5. I just don't know what to think about the quarter lining. I don't see its use, and it might cause the coat to wrinkle more, which you really don't want on evening clothes. But there might be other advantages I don't see.

As noted above, I never did the quarter lining. It's fully lined in silk.

Originally Posted by greekonomist
Foo, I love those lapels. What a great choice. I remember you said it took some persuading to get Mariano on board with the shawl. I don't know what an SB peak would have looked like, but it's hard to imagine it looking better than this. How does MR like it?

Hmm, I dunno. He was enthusiastic about how the lapels came out before he shipped the suit to me, but he's never seen it on me.

Originally Posted by greekonomist
Where's the bow from? Don't tell me you got that bespoke too.

Not bespoke, but it's from Rubinacci.
 

Film Noir Buff

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
Okay, I tweaked the contrast over part of the jacket so more detail is shown:
mafoodj-m.jpg

You can wear a black bow tie with this. The tailor designed a very handsome lapel for you. Don't cut holes in it. I know the scoop style the iGents speak of, it's passe in the worst sense of the word. Although I find it odd that he let you line mohair in silk. I think I mentioned that before. If anything might make you look like a waiter it's the V fold, get a cream colored silk pocket square. White or pearl cufflinks? I would use some contrast.
 

radicaldog

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
I didn't realize the shirt would be so huge a problem! You guys have me convinced: I'll get a proper formal shirt. However, this one will have to do for now.
Well, this shirt might work if you wore a long tie
peepwall[1].gif
What can I say, I like long ties with tuxedo. One of the best (in fact one of the few non-offensive ones) pictures of Lapo Elkann I've seen is this: http://www.noveporte.it/taccuino/tau...p3?idfoto=2983 The suit is one of Grandpa's (1950's Huntsman, apparenty. Seen it in some old Agnelli pic), and note the buttonhole. Edit: and here's grandpa: http://www.noveporte.it/taccuino/tau...p3?idfoto=2982
 

Film Noir Buff

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Originally Posted by radicaldog
Well, this shirt might work if you wore a long tie
peepwall[1].gif
What can I say, I like long ties with tuxedo. One of the best (in fact one of the few non-offensive ones) pictures of Lapo Elkann I've seen is this: http://www.noveporte.it/taccuino/tau...p3?idfoto=2983 The suit is one of Grandpa's (1950's Huntsman, apparenty. Seen it in some old Agnelli pic), and note the buttonhole. Edit: and here's grandpa: http://www.noveporte.it/taccuino/tau...p3?idfoto=2982

He looks like a rock n roll waiter from a movie that could have the same title from the eighties.
 

TheFoo

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Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff
If anything might make you look like a waiter it's the V fold, get a cream colored silk pocket square.

That is a cream silk pocket square.
 

JibranK

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Originally Posted by radicaldog
Well, this shirt might work if you wore a long tie
peepwall[1].gif
What can I say, I like long ties with tuxedo. One of the best (in fact one of the few non-offensive ones) pictures of Lapo Elkann I've seen is this: http://www.noveporte.it/taccuino/tau...p3?idfoto=2983 The suit is one of Grandpa's (1950's Huntsman, apparenty. Seen it in some old Agnelli pic), and note the buttonhole. Edit: and here's grandpa: http://www.noveporte.it/taccuino/tau...p3?idfoto=2982

Go back to SW&D
 

Butterfly

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Four-in-hand tie with dinner jacket = shoot on sight. Actually it means 'doesn't know to tie a bow'.
 

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