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How short is too short when it comes to slim-suit pants?

rastapunk8

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Hello all, my name is Nick. This is my first post, and thanks in advance for any replies.

So I ordered a slim suit from Thick as Thieves for a wedding I am attending on Saturday. It fits like a glove, but I need to get the pants hemmed a bit since they bunch up when they hit the shoe. I wanted some advice on how short to get them hemmed. Pants for slim suits are generally known for showing a bit of sock, correct? I'm just a little nervous about getting too much hemmed off. Anyone care to partake any advice?

I would post some pics but the pants are at the tailors (don't worry, nothing too drastic for the first stab at hemming).

(I tried to look at the Thick as Thieves website for some guidance on how short the pants should be, but all the pictures are from the front that don't really reveal what's going on near the ankle and shoe)

Thanks guys.
 

jmix1

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Take a look at some of the posts from the last few months in the What are you wearing right now thread. I'm all for showing off my shoe and sock combos, but if your socks show when standing still your pants are too short.
 

Sebastian

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Recoil

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Tell the tailor you want a slight break and he will show you what it will look like by pinning it in place. Also, if its hemmed properly, there will be some fabric left to extend the leg if you don't like the end result, wool suit pants don't get hemmed like jeans.
 

contaygious

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Originally Posted by jmix1
Take a look at some of the posts from the last few months in the What are you wearing right now thread. I'm all for showing off my shoe and sock combos, but if your socks show when standing still your pants are too short.

This depends on the shoes though. If you are wearing loafers then a bit of sock will show.
 

emmanuel

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Originally Posted by Sebastian
It's a matter of personal taste.
Still, this is definately too short:
http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=109767


again a matter of preference... I dont really think thats too short. The pants are waaaaaaay too tight but I like the length. I would like it higher (thom browne like) or lower where the hem just slightly brushes the shoe (Emmanuel like)
 

Gutman

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You only want them a little shorter than a wider leg trouser. The "collegiate" look, which someone else posted a link to above, is a much exaggerated shortness (think gangly teenager growing out of hand-me-downs - and it only works if you are slim and gangly and clearly don't work for a living...).

A 60s business suit is still a business suit and should look that way.

Turn-ups ought (on principle) to be slightly shorter than uncuffed, but you still want the trouser touching the shoe (assuming a normal lace-up) on all sides when standing, and i would suggest with the beginnings of a single break in the crease. They must be long and/or tapered enough so that the back of the trouser cuff "nests" against the ankle/shoe and keeps a clean vertical line from the back of the heel up the back of the leg - if the cuff sticks out then it is too short for that width of trouser leg. If the trousers are very tapered in the leg, then you will quickly see what looks too long because there will be unsightly bunching.

I just got a 60s suit back from the tailor today (will try and post photo) with exactly that length of leg and I am very pleased with it. I had a bit of a fight with my tailor to be able to keep the turn-up (especially as I narrowed the leg a bit), but that is another story...

One guide is the length of the jacket and sleeves - obviously you want to keep leg length in keeping with the overall look of the suit.
 

emmanuel

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Originally Posted by Gutman
posted a link to above, is a much exaggerated shortness (think gangly teenager growing out of hand-me-downs - and it only works if you are slim and gangly and clearly don't work for a living...).

sarcasm.gif
 

Gutman

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I like the Sartorialist photo - outfit looks really good and it suits the wearer, but i just wouldn't dress like that for work...

He is striking a bit of a nonchalant give-a-damn pose - reminded me of this Raeburn portrait of Sir John Sinclair:

http://www.museumsyndicate.com/item.php?item=7081

That's a short leg too, but works cos very tapered
 

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