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Pics of my Custom Suit from Paul Chang in Chicago

magogian12345

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Hey all,

I commissioned a custom suit with Paul Chang some 6 months ago. And, until now, I've neglected to put up photos. As people occasionally ask about Chang's, I thought I'd put of pics of my suit.

It is a 2 button, side vent suit made from Dormeuil's Amadeus line of fabrics. The suit cost $1,900.

A few notes about my body type. I am simply unable to fit into any suit off the rack because of my arm size. I'm 6'4" with a 48" chest, 37" waist, and 19" arms. So, naturally, I've had to always use MTM or custom.

Here are the pics. You need to click on the pic in imageshack to get it to blow up and get a better view.

I think Paul did a good job of accomodating my difficult body type. The suit isn't perfect, but I think the fit is pretty good (and it is a better fit than my two MTM suits from Brooks Brothers).

Just a note: my arms don't lay by my sides. They bow out like that because of my working out. As such, the fabric bunches because my arms always stay bent.



Thoughts: I think it is pretty good from the front. I like the soft shoulders. The only thing I notice is that the sleeves are a bit long. (I have a difficult time getting shirts with long enough sleeves. But, I've recently gone to MTM shirts, so that should change.)





Thoughts: Hmm, the suit does wrinkle a fair bit right at my lower back. It didn't do this a few months back -- at least not to this degree. I suspect my butt got larger or my back changed. I have found that my proportions do change because of varied workouts (cycling different workouts every few months).

Here is a shot of the lining



Finally, a little special touch.




Overall, I'm happy with the suit. It needs a few tweaks, but I think it is good, especially for my difficult body type.
 

antirabbit

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looks bulky, both the pants and certainly the sleeves.
The shoulders look nice and soft and very nice fabric.
 

JLibourel

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How are the sleeves not going to look bulky if he's got 19 inch biceps, which are, as he points out, disproportionately large? My body measurements are otherwise very similar to his, but my arms are nowhere close to that size.
 

magogian12345

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Originally Posted by antirabbit
looks bulky, both the pants and certainly the sleeves.
The shoulders look nice and soft and very nice fabric.


Yes, it is bulky because I have a bulky body. A slender frame just looks much better in a suit. But, I don't have that, so. . .

I should add that I do think the sleeves also look thick/bulky. But, I played around with it before, and I really have to have it as it is because otherwise it inhibits my arm movement too much.

Yah, I do love the fabric.
 

antirabbit

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right, they look bulky on you. I realize that you require more cloth as there is more of you, but how it is placed on you is what is in question.
Not horrid by anymeans....
 

magogian12345

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Originally Posted by antirabbit
right, they look bulky on you. I realize that you require more cloth as there is more of you, but how it is placed on you is what is in question.
Not horrid by anymeans....


I do appreciate your input. I do agree that the suit has a somewhat bulky look. But, I just can't really slim it down without inhibiting my movement/comfort.
 

polar-lemon

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Hard to tell from the pics, but I like the way the back is shaped, and the way it looks from the side. Do you think the tailor could alter the sleeve pitch to correct for your forward-bent arms? Also, do the sleeves seem a little long? That might be adding to the bulkiness effect.
 

FreedBird

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I love the fabric choice and the detailing and the fit seems decent, but off in some places. It looks strange in the chest area and the sleeves look very off, but then again you have the physique of a body builder. As I am not a tailor I really am unsure of how to fix this problem with your body build, but maybe someone else would. It would also be easier to judge the fit if your pose was more natural. I think this would probably remove the really bad wrinkling in the back of the suit and maybe fix some of the problems I am seeing from the other angles.
 

magogian12345

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I am getting another suit with Chang. I've had the first fitting, but the jacket was only partially made and only one sleeve basted on.

So, I'm open to fit changes/suggestions. I only ask that you keep in mind my particular "difficulties" before suggesting something.

Below is a .pdf of the Scabal fabric from the Scabal website that I am using for my next suit. My fabric is the first of the two. It is quite bold in person. The fabrics feels like cashmere, even though it is only a 120s wool.

http://www.2shared.com/file/5135916/...selection.html
 

magogian12345

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Originally Posted by polar-lemon
Hard to tell from the pics, but I like the way the back is shaped, and the way it looks from the side. Do you think the tailor could alter the sleeve pitch to correct for your forward-bent arms? Also, do the sleeves seem a little long? That might be adding to the bulkiness effect.

The sleeves are too long. But, it is partly my fault because I requested them long. Well, let me be more specific. In general, because of my arm size, when I bend my arms significantly, it takes up a lot of sleeve, causing the sleeve of a suit to come a fair bit up my arm. This Chang suit is much better than my Brooks Brothers MTM suits in that area, but it still does it a fair bit. But that said, the sleeves are still too long.

I will ask Paul about the sleeve pitch and see what he says.
 

magogian12345

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Originally Posted by FreedBird
I love the fabric choice and the detailing and the fit seems decent, but off in some places. It looks strange in the chest area and the sleeves look very off, but then again you have the physique of a body builder. As I am not a tailor I really am unsure of how to fix this problem with your body build, but maybe someone else would. It would also be easier to judge the fit if your pose was more natural. I think this would probably remove the really bad wrinkling in the back of the suit and maybe fix some of the problems I am seeing from the other angles.

One thing that might be what bothers you is the low arm holes. Because of the size of my arms, I have to have pretty low arm holes. So, that adds to the bulkiness.

Regarding pose, that is, unfortunately, my "natural" pose. I swear it makes me look badass in the gym though! heh
 

oaw01

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goddamn, you're a big mofo. Did you start off lanky and then workout to get that 48 inch chest?

Since you have such a big back, shoulders and arms - I think you should have the waist of the jacket a bit wider since your waist is a hell alot thinner than the upper body.

edit: I think the front and sides look good. Something about the back is a bit off perhaps it's the bunching on the lower back.
 

antirabbit

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Are you in the NFL???
smile.gif
smile.gif
 

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