Zegna - Australia - Update Herringbone

Hi Guys

In the next few days I will be heading out to view the Zegna store as I'm due for a new suit..

I'm after a charcoal suit and am looking at the Traveller range, however am unsure about the 14mill and 15mill range.. ?? Anyone know the difference.. and what's the ranking in quality ??

If possible, could someone suggest the best colour for the inside lining of the jacket.. should I go a standard dark grey.. or something different ?

Thanks in advance.. love this place..

13mil13 > 14mil14> 15mil15 > traveller

the 13mil13 is more fine than the 14mil14 which is more fine than the 15mil15 - but the finer you get the less durable it is.

Traveller is another range that while technically 'lower' down the hierarchy, (IIRC) may have some anti-crease properties or be made of easy-care blends.

As for inner lining colour - go with a dark colour for business use. Alternatively you could go with a lighter grey, hunter green, or a sky blue for something a little unusual. Avoid brightly coloured linings (e.g. bright red, orange, yellow) as chances are you will regret them in retrospect.

Thanks for the quick reply Apropos..

So the lower the number the more expensive it is ?!? and the finer the fabric..

Cause a friend of mine is getting the Traveller suit at it's $3,800, however that's a tad over my budget.. want to save around $500..

I was thinking the dark grey or black .. so that's great..

Dark grey would be a versatile choice, and would be the one I would spring for. For versatility, dark grey > black. the '15' in '15 mil mil 15' refers to the diameter of the wool fibres in microns. So 13 microns is finer than 14 microns is finer than 15 microns. Yes, the lower the number, the higher the price. Oh, and one more thing: Before you spring for Zegna, try out Herringbone. Not sure where you are, but some capital cities have Herringbone standalone stores. I also know that the city DJs in Melbourne and Sydney stock Herringbone.

A couple of months ago I made the decision to go with Ethan @ Herringbone, however at the same week the went under voluntary administration and therefore no longer offer the bespoke service.. just my luck ay ..

Well I might check out the the 15 mill range and hope it's a tad cheaper..

Thanks once again..

Originally Posted by Markus1984

Click to expand...

A couple of months ago I made the decision to go with Ethan @ Herringbone, however at the same week the went under voluntary administration and therefore no longer offer the bespoke service.. just my luck ay ..

Well I might check out the the 15 mill range and hope it's a tad cheaper..

Thanks once again..

Are you doing made to measure with Zegna? You might want to think about Canali.

Originally Posted by AndrewRogers

Click to expand...

Are you doing made to measure with Zegna? You might want to think about Canali.

Yeah going made-to-measure.. I checked out Canali, however thought it was a bit too formal..

What do you think ??

Originally Posted by Markus1984

Click to expand...

Yeah going made-to-measure.. I checked out Canali, however thought it was a bit too formal..

What do you think ??

I suppose it's up to you, but I had heard Canali was a bit cheaper than Zegna these days and were as well made. I have no experience with either brand made-to-measure, however.

What do you mean by too formal? Was it the cut of the suit that was too formal?

Originally Posted by Markus1984

Click to expand...

Yeah going made-to-measure.. I checked out Canali, however thought it was a bit too formal..

What do you think ??

I was in the department store, in Seoul, yesterday and checked out both Zegna and Canali. I didn't look at the m2m styles, but all I can say is the cut of Zegna and material is superior to that of Canali. I guess this is not to be unexpected due to the difference in prices.

I better re-phrase that, considering both are formal suits..

Went with Zegna as I like their style better, while Canali seems to have a traditional edge to it.

Might be wrong..

Originally Posted by aleeboy

Click to expand...

I was in the department store, in Seoul, yesterday and checked out both Zegna and Canali. I didn't look at the m2m styles, but all I can say is the cut of Zegna and material is superior to that of Canali. I guess this is not to be unexpected due to the difference in prices.

Made my day... already booked an appointment with Zegna... phew..

I suggest that you do the world a favour and throw the 13, 14, and 15Mill books into the bin when you see them. Better still set light to them

More seriously, they don't make up well at all. They are not the sort of cloth that is durable or that holds its shape well.

Canali apparently put more structure into their coats - something I approve of. They reputedly have complex, multi-part haircloth chest pieces. Whether this extends to their MTO stuff, I don't know.

Originally Posted by Sator

Click to expand...

I suggest that you do the world a favour and throw the 13, 14, and 15Mill books into the bin when you see them. Better still set light to them

More seriously, they don't make up well at all. They are not the sort of cloth that is durable or that holds its shape well.

Canali apparently put more structure into their coats - something I approve of. They reputedly have complex, multi-part haircloth chest pieces. Whether this extends to their MTO stuff, I don't know.

Thanks for coming onboard Sartor - love reading your opinions as you have directed me to Charles Nakhle last week..

So you think I should stay with the Traveller range ?? Or drop to 15 ?

I know the Traveller quality isn't as brittle and does not crease like the others..

I am in line with Sator here. Perhaps you should try the heavier fabric too hence you could compare which one is to your liking.

It is a matter of personal preference though yet as for me, now I prefer the middle to heavier (not super heavy) weight rather than the lighter one.

In my view it is too fragile, especially if you are in Australia since the dry cleaner will destroy your suit much quicker than the age (have to admit, there are not many good dry cleaners here).

As a result of this, I've been hunting for vintage suits since old suits tend to hold up and 'fall' much better than modern one.

Having said that, I do like lightweight suits/sportscoat but the type that hold up well such as constructed from the range of 13 - 16oz and I don't dismiss super number as well, as long as it does not exceed 120s.

Having tried both Canali and Zegna, I would say both are nice but with a different cut, construction and fabric.

Zegna has superior fabric nevertheless, Sator is spot on again when saying that Canali is more structured than Zegna. Both are traditional I believe (except for the Z Zegna line that is more fashion forward)

I regularly get to see Zegna books whenever I visit Adamo Marrone. They are rather colourful and sometimes ostentatious designs that have never appealed to me. The 15Mill book is one that I particularly have heard problems with durability and in making up.

Try to save yourself money by trying to pick out non-super cloths, with a maximum of S100. A good cloth should spring back when you fold it, and not show creases when you do, nor have a soft sponginess. Excessive 'bunny' softness and lack of springy tensile strength suggest that the weaves settings are set deliberately loose to seduce the unwary and to save on fibre. My personal minimum weight for standard tailoring is 12 Oz (360g) - though 14Oz (450g) is preferable. However, for really hot days a tropical weighted cloth 8-10Oz (240-300g) is sometimes necessary in Sydney. Zegna does offer a mohair blend book for this of purpose, though I find the weave alarmingly tissue paper like and fragile - another reason to wear it only on really unbearably hot summer days. If you are after a three seasons lounge suit that will last for years and years, then I suggest a 13-14Oz cloth. Unfortunately, this weight is almost impossible to find in the Zegna books, as their cloths are a bit anorexic.