Drape tutorial?

anon · Feb 20, 2009

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

If you read AY's link to the London Lounge thread, as he notes, that is a decent start.

- B
I tried to read it but there was too much BS in it. "The Drape has no purpose in this world other than to please its owner; it is not utilitarian, not business wear; it need not assert itself through padded shoulders, puffed chest, slashing lapels. It is not anonymous armor but rather open, casual and welcoming. " wtf is that? anyway, the drape apparently sucks.

voxsartoria · Feb 20, 2009

Originally Posted by anon

anyway, the drape apparently sucks.

You are a quick study, and have come to your conclusion in record time.

- B

gdl203 · Feb 20, 2009

Originally Posted by anon

anyway, the drape apparently sucks.

itsstillmatt · Feb 20, 2009

Originally Posted by gdl203

Gyros?

gdl203 · Feb 20, 2009

Originally Posted by iammatt

Gyros?

I got sick of popcorn

jefferyd · Feb 20, 2009

In a nutshell, drape is a way of cutting that is bigger in the chest around the armhole, usually characterized by vertical fold along the front and back of the armhole. This, combined with soft tailoring, is supposed to be more comfortable. There is debate about how attractive or flattering it is. I am from the clean chest (no drape) school but to satisfy my curiosity as well as a challenge from Sator, I have drafted and am making myself a drape jacket. If you are so inclined you can read about it on my blog, though I will no doubt be posting results of my experiment here.

james_timothy · Feb 20, 2009

Originally Posted by anon

wtf is that?.
Well, that was a wonderful, if poetic, essay by someone who loves clothes and is knowledgeable about them. For some reason these are relatively rare and so are valued when found.

voxsartoria · Feb 20, 2009

Originally Posted by jefferyd

In a nutshell, drape is a way of cutting that is bigger in the chest around the armhole, usually characterized by vertical fold along the front and back of the armhole. This, combined with soft tailoring, is supposed to be more comfortable. There is debate about how attractive or flattering it is. I am from the clean chest (no drape) school but to satisfy my curiosity as well as a challenge from Sator, I have drafted and am making myself a drape jacket. If you are so inclined you can read about it on my blog, though I will no doubt be posting results of my experiment here.

Your test coat is looking FANTASTIC. If you can get it to fit you like a bit closer to the way it fits the dummy, it is a remarkable first attempt.

Bravo.

Also, just a little possible fact correction in your blog: I don't think Scholte was ever at A&S, it is just that the founders were trained by him and were influenced by his theories.

- B

jefferyd · Feb 20, 2009

If it fit me like it fits the dummy, it would not be drape, it would be clean chested. There are no folds on the dummy- those folds are the drape. I agree it looks good on the dummy, but drape is not supposed to look like that. There are photos of it on me (in a fitting stage, however) and it not quite so nice.

voxsartoria · Feb 20, 2009

Originally Posted by jefferyd

If it fit me like it fits the dummy, it would not be drape, it would be clean chested. There are no folds on the dummy- those folds are the drape. I agree it looks good on the dummy, but drape is not supposed to look like that. There are photos of it on me (in a fitting stage, however) and it not quite so nice.

I meant closer to the dummy. Your fitting side shot isn't spectacular, but the back looks quite nice.

And no, you do no look twenty pounds heavier.

What is the sidebody and darting situation with this particular jacket...how are those made up?

- B

Manton · Feb 20, 2009

The coat looks much too long and could use some more waist, but I like the shoulders and chest.

TRINI · Feb 20, 2009

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

2. An example of a draped jacket: A&S

This jacket looks spectacular.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

As for jackets that have no drape, that would be 99% of all jackets that you see, RTW or bespoke.
Interestingly enough, I've noticed drapesque characteristics on about 3 or 4 of my sportcoats, all of which are RTW and none of which were tried on before purchasing.

voxsartoria · Feb 20, 2009

Originally Posted by triniboy27

Interestingly enough, I've noticed drapesque characteristics on about 3 or 4 of my sportcoats, all of which are RTW and none of which were tried on before purchasing.

The Anti-Drapites might say that you have a jacket that is simply too big.

Since you are a natty dresser, I would find that hard to believe, so the existence of drapesque characteristics is an interesting phenomena. Do you like it?

- B

voxsartoria · Feb 20, 2009

Originally Posted by Manton

The coat looks much too long and could use some more waist, but I like the shoulders and chest.

I was going to say that, but I would have to see a full body shot to see what's going on...it could be that J. uses the length to cover the seat.

- B

TRINI · Feb 20, 2009

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

The Anti-Drapites might say that you have a jacket that is simply too big.

Since you are a natty dresser, I would find that hard to believe, so the existence of drapesque characteristics is an interesting phenomena. Do you like it?

- B

I like it quite a lot actually. I definitely see the appeal.

Drape tutorial?

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