Voxsartoria's Weekly WAYWRN Subjective and Totally Unfair Digest

Originally Posted by james_timothy

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I'm still trying to get my mind around the idea that somewhere in the 1930's were year 0 in Sartorialist History. Perhaps when the world found its ground shifting under their feet it latched onto the myth of the Upperclass and the images of the AA crystalize this aspirational idea.

Well, to be fair, that's not what I'm saying. I don't thing there was a 'year 0'. Norms develop and change over time--that's always been the case. Rather, I am claiming that the latter half of the twentieth century brought with it a sea change in popular philosophical thinking (namely, postmodernsm). Thus, the nature of many of the the changes has been fundamentally different.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

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There isn't anything inherently wrong with the AA/Esky plates, rather it is how they are approached, interpreted and applied. A fundamental element of design and taste is to borrow and refresh. There are literalists, LITERALISTS as well as people who who panic if they have to make a decision. People can often recognize the fruits of taste and successful interpretation even if they cannot achieve it themselves. Doubtless you know people who can appreciate humor or a joke but are not themselves witty.

Can someone quote this to make sure Buffy sees it? Thanks.

Carl: you say this all the time. Over and over and over and over. But you never say who you mean. Who are these people? Are they posters on SF? Are they people you know personally? Friends? Collegues? People in the clothing trade whom you interview?

I have read this assertion from you hundreds of times, and I still have no idea who you are talking about. Could you please clear it up for once?

Originally Posted by Manton

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Can someone quote this to make sure Buffy sees it? Thanks.

Carl: you say this all the time. Over and over and over and over. But you never say who you mean. Who are these people? Are they posters on SF? Are they people you know personally? Friends? Collegues? People in the clothing trade whom you interview?

I have read this assertion from you hundreds of times, and I still have no idea who you are talking about. Could you please clear it up for once?

Just hit ignore.

Oh, wait, he has me on ignore too, so he won't see this either.

Originally Posted by eg1

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It's the ones you cannot see that ought to worry yourself and the missus. If you listen closely you might just hear them toiling underground: teeming, misshapen and tireless Morlocks -- mining and sapping in the darkness ...

As you recall, the Eloi first serve as food for the Morlocks, and then devolve over time into plant eaters who hop...much like, uhm, rabbits. Then, they are snuffed out by creatures that look like giant centipedes.

Good times.


- B

Originally Posted by binge

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Here they come to snuff the rooster Yeah here come the rooster, yeah You know he aint gonna die No, no, no, ya know he aint gonna die
When the rooster is a paladin, he's cock of the block and invincible This is one of those Tammy Faye squares, Senior Fresco likes

Originally Posted by Manton

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There is definitly a lighter than navy dupioni. Have a look at Draper's.

Flusser had this one. He had three shades of dupioni: tan, elephant gray, and a slate/AF blue. I really, really wanted the latter. Alan wore it in the shop the day I tried to order it. He talked me out of it. Said it was impractical. A Palm Beach/man of leisure suit. I never forgot it, and eventually got a similar color in mohair.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

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Before it changed hands, the owner of D. Singer Textiles in NYC got me a chart of high quality duppioni silks to choose from. I chose a medium grey and a silvery grey for a sports jacket. I almost chose a bright blue too but I already have a bright blue jacket. I mention this because there were a lot of nice colors on the card and many shades of blue. It was from Italy. If I get a chance I will inspect the fabrics to see if a maker's tag is stapled to it.

Thank you, you two. When I was at my local tailor, he had a book with shantungs that had the requisite slubbiness, but the colors and book looked like it was for women's wear (there was also lace, georgettes, etc. in there). Mohair may be a good alternative in terms of getting surface interest. This would be for a straight-up DB blazer, gilt buttons and all.

--Andre

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Rather, I am claiming that the latter half of the twentieth century brought with it a sea change in popular philosophical thinking (namely, postmodernsm). Thus, the nature of many of the the changes has been fundamentally different.

And I think that fundamentalness is all in the mind- not yours, but in the thinkers of the last couple of decades.

At least I'd like to argue it- objectively, the most radical changes to the world happened in the first half of the 20th Century, not the second. Postmodernism might be a reaction to those changes, but it wasn't the cause of them. To make a caricature of it: Modernism as the single guiding idea of (my version of) the upper class died in the fires of WWI and WWII, not the heat of Vietnam or the Cold War.

I like, FNB, the idea that the 30's was "the first time there was a dynamic international exchange of styles, fabrics, colors" but why then, during a great downturn in international trade?

By the way, eg1, I think the Brits get Morlocks, Americans get zombies:

Dawn of the Dead: In this first sequel to Night of the Living Dead, a group of four people take up residence in a deserted mall while trying to stay alive amidst the armies of the dead... Taking stock of their surroundings, they arm themselves, lock down the mall, and destroy the zombies... Tensions begin to build as months go on, however, when they come to realize that they've fallen prey to consumerism..." IMDb

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Darth Vader: All too easy.

Originally Posted by A Y

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Thank you, you two. When I was at my local tailor, he had a book with shantungs that had the requisite slubbiness, but the colors and book looked like it was for women's wear (there was also lace, georgettes, etc. in there). Mohair may be a good alternative in terms of getting surface interest. This would be for a straight-up DB blazer, gilt buttons and all. --Andre
I wouldnt do a mohair blazer a duppioni silk one would be very stylish. Umm, err, I wonder if Scabal or Dormeuil dont carry something like this, give em a call. They may not sell toy uo directly but theyll check for you. Holland and Sherry do a very nice navy duppioni in their formal book, too dark for your needs but still very nice. You might want to wait for Harrison's Sunbeam which wont look a thing like silk but will be a great summer blazer fabric.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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As you recall, the Eloi first serve as food for the Morlocks, and then devolve over time into plant eaters who hop...much like, uhm, rabbits. Then, they are snuffed out by creatures that look like giant centipedes. Good times. - B
Trained to react to the smell of fresco

Originally Posted by james_timothy

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I like, FNB, the idea that the 30's was "the first time there was a dynamic international exchange of styles, fabrics, colors" but why then, during a great downturn in international trade? By the way, eg1, I think the Brits get Morlocks, Americans get zombies:

Well, the people depicted were living the good life and images of that were the narcotics of the thirties. That and retailers had to compete for fewer dollars. There were a lot of fads in the thirties that didnt exist in the 1920s; Alpine/Tyrolean culture, South American, Moroccan, even Chinese. Some of them were a result of ocean going tourists returning with trinkets, others were in sympathy such as with China engulfed by a rising sun.

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

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Well, the people depicted were living the good life and images of that were the narcotics of the thirties.

Umm..narcotics were the narcotics of the thirties...

Originally Posted by james_timothy

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And I think that fundamentalness is all in the mind- not yours, but in the thinkers of the last couple of decades.

At least I'd like to argue it- objectively, the most radical changes to the world happened in the first half of the 20th Century, not the second. Postmodernism might be a reaction to those changes, but it wasn't the cause of them. To make a caricature of it: Modernism as the single guiding idea of (my version of) the upper class died in the fires of WWI and WWII, not the heat of Vietnam or the Cold War.

I think there is a difference between sociopolitical change and intellectual change. They don't always match up, and great magnitude in one doesn't necessarily correlate with great magnitude in the other. Confusing the two, well, confuses things. Postmodernism may have arisen in tandem with less traumatic or significant sociopolitical changes than those that preceded it, but I would argue that its effect on popular intellectual thought has nonetheless been profound.

Anyway, regardless of the historical significance of postmodernism, it is undoubtedly the dominant form of intellectual analysis in the West today. Every major American university is testament to that. And Fuuma.

Originally Posted by LabelKing

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Maybe a turquoise Dupioni, or Goering powder-blue.

As in, Hermann? You're thinking Feldblau.