Rally under your flag- War is upon us! The Great Drape/No Drape Poll!

Originally Posted by gdl203

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I did. That's what made me worried. Especially the use of capitalized clan names.

I think the clan lines were drawn by someone else, and Vox just picked up the ball to play with it for a while, for fun.

If this were a made-for-TV movie, the title would be Drape and the Fat Man.

Originally Posted by jefferyd

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The silhouette, styling choices aside, should flatter, conceal, enhance..... I have super-wide hips which the strong shoulders help to conceal. I would put someone who had overly strong shoulders in a very soft shoulder. Every jacket should be cut differently according to the client's taste and build. Unfortunately for me, drape has become a hot button because of the "ideal bespoke silhouette" thing, as if any one silhouette could be ideal for everyone, especially one which adds bulk to the frame.

FTW! Bingo!

Originally Posted by jefferyd

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Those are great, yachtie!

Thank you!

When does the pole close? I am going with groupthink to show itself before I know what I prefer.

Originally Posted by Manton

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I think the clan lines were drawn by someone else, and Vox just picked up the ball to play with it for a while, for fun.

If this were a made-for-TV movie, the title would be Drape and the Fat Man.

OK fair enough - so I'll just add this to the list of all the snarky behind the scenes secrets I'm not cool enough to know. I'll stick to playing dumb and gently pushing other people's buttons for another 10,000 posts

Originally Posted by gdl203

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OK fair enough - so I'll just add this to the list of all the snarky behind the scenes secrets I'm not cool enough to know. I'll stick to playing dumb and gently pushing other people's buttons for another 10,000 posts

Hey, congratulations! Should we start a thread to commemorate this auspicious occasion?

Originally Posted by gdl203

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OK fair enough - so I'll just add this to the list of all the snarky behind the scenes secrets I'm not cool enough to know. I'll stick to playing dumb and gently pushing other people's buttons for another 10,000 posts

It should be pretty obvious that among FNB's many obsessions, one is "drape" and all those who profess to like it. He is the one who forces otherwise on-topic threads into drape v. clean showdowns, and posts stupid pictures of people eating excrement in response to seeing a drape suit.

Because, as I wrote in another thread, he will never get over it.

Where's the poll option for draped mohair fresco?

hmm...

Yachtie, the blue db blazer is the best looking one I've seen you post yet.

Originally Posted by Manton

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It should be pretty obvious that among FNB's many obsessions, one is "drape" and all those who profess to like it. He is the one who forces otherwise on-topic threads into drape v. clean showdowns, and posts stupid pictures of people eating excrement in response to seeing a drape suit.

Because, as I wrote in another thread, he will never get over it.

It's obvious to some people

Thanks grim. No celebration please - makes me feel old (and unproductive)

Originally Posted by Manton

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I think the clan lines were drawn by someone else, and Vox just picked up the ball to play with it for a while, for fun.

But the pretense could have been so much fun. A draped conversation vs. a clean one, you might say.

Originally Posted by gdl203

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It's obvious to some people

The only way you could have missed it was to have him on ignore. Don't tell me you have also missed the fresco obsession?

Originally Posted by DocHolliday

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+1. I liked specimens in both, but tend to prefer clean overall. I don't get the extremely drapey stuff, but if someone likes it, great. To each his own.

It's not like many people these days understand the basics of fit, much less the nuance of drape v. clean.

You love drape. Shall I hit you with the heavy artillery?









The thing is, while a clean front is the bread and butter of RTW, a draped jacket today only really exists in bespoke guise. Given that it is a bespoke look, it is exceptionally hard to divide the intrinsic elegance of the look from the idiosyncracies of the individual wearer that cannot help but be overlayed on top of the underlying style.

Il Vecchio shows it close to its natural state in my opinion. Ease and elegance. Mariano Rubinacci has some of this same flavor, Luciano Barbera as well. Whatever you might think of him, action shots of the younger Prince Charles show the same ease of inhabiting his tailored clothes...in fact, his clothes are the only things not stiff about him.

That is also the reason why (I think) when they are posted, bespoke looks with draped jackets make more of an impression. It does not guarantee elegance, but it is a very good route to it, and perhaps a simpler route.

In fact, I think it is quite hard to look modern in a bespoke clean coat today...more often than not, where a draped jacket might look sloppy, it still looks comfortable, while there are many bespoke clean fronted jackets make a man look like he's in a sausage casing or armour. Gianni Agnelli and Prince Michael of Kent look great in theirs (as does Yachtie)...but I think you have to be a be more superhuman with your clothes to carrry it off as a bespoke look unless you play it safe and mimic off the rack.

All the guys...and I mean all of them...who post in WAYRN in RTW are in clean fronted jackets. The ones who dress well at the top of the charts like you actually have no option to dress in a draped coat, or to feel its typically light contruction realized in the body-conforming art of bespoke tailoring.

I have always been careful to note that properly made clothes of any style should be expected to be comfortable in stillness and in action. But...given equal levels of execution...there is a tad more freedom with a draped jacket, the importance of which is greater for the wearer than the viewer. That tad extra of freedom is not the be all and end all of comfort and fit, but it is still something that offers something...extra.


- B

Originally Posted by vitaminc

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Sorry if I took it too literally.

Sorry to be late to the big-endian/little-endian party, but for those that weren't computer geeks, the dispute which originated in Gulliver's Travels (having to do with which end of a hard boiled egg you open - which is ridiculous because obviously it's the little end) has been co-opted by computer scientists to describe the way in which a byte is arranged in memory. There are advantages and disadvantages to each system which is why the debate has raged on for so long.

The condescension is ascending quickly. It may be funny if there weren't some sincerity in these comments.

Originally Posted by jefferyd

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Drape as a stylistic choice is one thing. I don't think drape looks bad, but I don't think it is particularly flattering, either. I have never had a client ask me to make him look ten pounds heavier, which is what drape tends to do.

The silhouette, styling choices aside, should flatter, conceal, enhance..... I have super-wide hips which the strong shoulders help to conceal. I would put someone who had overly strong shoulders in a very soft shoulder. Every jacket should be cut differently according to the client's taste and build. Unfortunately for me, drape has become a hot button because of the "ideal bespoke silhouette" thing, as if any one silhouette could be ideal for everyone, especially one which adds bulk to the frame.

Fred Astaire chose drape cuts because he was probably self-conscious about his thinness and was hoping drape would bulk him up. I think it only makes his face look even thinner relative to his body, thus drawing more attention to what the drape is meant to conceal. It looks terrible, if you ask me. Even his dress coats are cut with as much drape in the chest as possible. I think looks odd because it fights against the very nature of the body coat.