Steed (E. DeBoise) Bespoke Suit, Odd Jacket, and Odd Vest Fittings (Winter 2009)

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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My favorite photo. I can't bring myself to get one of these, but it looks really cool. Were you even a little bit tempted to get rid of the basting thread and leave it this way, with the chalk marks? It would be like a super-cool version of this: The ghostly chalk outline of a DB waistcoat on the dark blue cloth looks really great. Maybe wear it once, to a party, and then send it off to be finished.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I would have liked that, but only had enough length of it to do the jacket and an odd vest.

The one piece back and patch pockets take up a lot of cutting real estate.




- B

Wear them together with chocolate or cream flannel slacks and you're redeemed.

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Originally Posted by yachtie

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Wear them together with chocolate or cream flannel slacks and you're redeemed.

Dang...great suggestions!

- B

What's up with the back, near the blades? Is it posture in the pictures? Is it cut very loose there? It looks like there is an excess of cloth.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Wait...small "l" or big "L?"

- B

Clearly...you...I...meant.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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...The two tweed jackets are done up on the softer side (I don't meant construction, but cut). There is no front cut or dart. There are no sidebodies, only the underarm cut that is not visible when the arms are lowered. In these particular cases, moreover, there is no back seam. Yet, even so, I think you can see that there is a lot of shaping to the jackets even at this stage. There is a lot of cutting and tailoring craft here, I suggest. Unlike what is pretty much the case on Savile Row these days, Edwin's coatmaker is "in-house," an employee and not an outworker. I think that helps in complex cases....
Is such shaping durable to wear, moisture, cleaning?

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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It would only be a problem if people are taking flash photograph of your ass, and then only in the photograph...
The front sometimes, but not the back, not that I know of. Thanks.

Single forward pleat on the pants?

Originally Posted by dopey

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I don't post photos of me wearing clothes or clothes I wear or even clothes I don't wear in interesting combinations. Rather, I provide textual suggestions and ask interesting questions to serve as mental thought inspiration and a font of commentary for the sartorially aspirationaling dresser.
fixed

Roped shoulders your r not.
I would go for natural shoulder 2-but or 1-but suit with lower gorge, for your body type.
Out of these I like the look of DB suit on you, but the rest makes you look a bit heavy and architectural.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I think SoCal has deconstruction covered already.

And for those of you whose eyes are not as practiced with this sort of thing, if you look closely, you can see the outline of the lapel facings for the vests, and the pinch representing the pleat that will go into each bottom pocket.

And no: no loud linings for me. If I want something like that, I'll go see Paul Winston for something truly Waspy.


- B

Does this mean the lapels on the waistcoat will be sewn on, rather than rolled? Any reason? I like rolled with flannels, otherwise I leave it as tailor's choice. Since he is doing sewn, how will they be laid out - matching the plaid, or to look as if they were folded over?

Nice touch on the jacket pocket pleats. I hadn't noted that first time. I had a sportcoat like that with pleats in all three pockets. It was silk and wore out. I was saving it to have it copied, but my wife disappeared it.

Will there be a band (like a wide besom) at the top of the pockets? That is what mine had on all three (I urge pleats for the breast pocket as well).

I went a different route on my recent sportcoat order - bellows hip patch pockets with button closures. Yours are more suave. I wanted more rustic (and really wanted the bellows).

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These all look superb. Did we ever get to see the finished double-breasted dinner jacket you had on the go? If not a dinner jacket, it was certainly a dark DB coat.

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I think Edwin would normally match, but we were dealing with limited fabric here, so we'll see. I don't have a preference, but now that you have me thinking about it again, I might change my mind... . . .
Matching (where the lapel is laid on the body so all the lines line up) is always done with sewn-on shawl lapels on waistcoats. I can check when I am home, but I am pretty sure that my Dege tweed suit waistcoat has the lapels sewn on to look like they were folded (as if they were normal lapels). Of all my lapelled waistcoats from Dege, probably a half-dozen or so, only this one has any pattern more elaborate than a donegal. After some reflection, I would do it this latter way if you are getting notch lapels on the waistcoat, but I am curious to hear of Edwin thinks otherwise. I am now wistful for pleated patch pockets. By way of comfort, I still have the LL Gun Club and BoB, along with the Cooper tweed, waiting to be made up. The Gun Club will be a sportcoat, but it seems kind of chunky to carry much in the way of tailoring gadgetry. Your version is right. The Cooper needs a bit more of an edge to it, but the BoB, as you have noted, could also be a nice vehicle for some frippery.