Denim 101 for Men's Clothing

whacked · Jan 23, 2009

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I did a one hour hot soak when I got them...suckers are long! Which is also why they suffer the indignity of cuffing when where them with this blazer. It's exactly that LVC vibe that I use to justify doing the Opie on them.

I have to decide soon which way I'm going with them, though. Do you hate the cuffs like everyone else?

- B

Were you double cuffing them? IMO single and shorter cuffs would be an improvement. Of course both require you to hem the jeans to 1-2.5" longer than usual inseam; the upside is that you can then occasionally switch to uncuffed and have mad stacking actionz.

TheFusilliJerry · Jan 23, 2009

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I used to wear them really low and tight back in college. I looked like a jackass. I'd look like a jackass and a dufus if I tried that now; imagine trying to tuck an OCBD (or any shirt, for that matter) into jeans hanging off your hips.
wonder how long these stayed tucked in

voxsartoria · Jan 23, 2009

Originally Posted by whacked

Were you double cuffing them? IMO single and shorter cuffs would be an improvement. Of course both require you to hem the jeans to 1-2.5" longer than usual inseam; the upside is that you can then occasionally switch to uncuffed and have mad stacking actionz.

I double-cuffed them today, which I only do with that BB blazer to show ankle. Normally I single cuff these.

Jeans with a 34 inseam fall just right for me...these collabs that Sugarcane did for Self Edge, though, only came one way: 39. Even after a hot soak, there's a lot still there.

I've never had to hem jeans, and without anyone around here with a chainstitch machine, I hesitate to hem these up. And someone my age wearing denim with mad stacking action might be sillier than I am already.

I'm still thinking about it. I don't look my age so it might work...maybe an experiment is in order.

- B

greekonomist · Jan 23, 2009

Chainstitch machine? How do I find someone with a chainstitch machine? I need to have a pair of jeans hemmed.

AlanC · Jan 23, 2009

I'm glad to see this as it's something of a pre-endorsement of a planned ensemble of mine. I just dropped off a tweed db with patch pockets and half belt RLPL sportcoat (db Norfolk?) off with the alterations guy. It seemed just the thing to go with jeans.

I also think the cuffs would look better taller. I also dropped off a pair of RRLs to be hemmed. No chainstitch machine, but I'll have to suffer through.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Casual Controversy Friday

http://vox.smugmug.com/photos/460187915_pbs4D-X2.jpg
http://vox.smugmug.com/photos/460187922_RsEYP-X2.jpg

BB Black Fleece navy camelhair DB blazer
BB Black Fleece OCBD
Kent Wang cotton pocket square
Sugarcane for Self Edge denim, model SEXSC06
Flat Head belt in tan
Dore Dore socks
Alden #8 shell cordo longwings, Barrie last UFW*
Cartier band in yellow 18k
Seiko Spirit, white face, on grosgrain band

voxsartoria · Jan 23, 2009

Originally Posted by AlanC

I also think the cuffs would look better taller.

Interesting. So you posit that moving to the 50s, and doing a full Beaver, could work better than going to the 60s, and doing a partial Opie...hmmm...intriguging.

Here's shot of a family walking past the Monsanto House of Tomorrow at Tomorrowland in 1960:

- B

voxsartoria · Jan 23, 2009

Originally Posted by greekonomist

Chainstitch machine? How do I find someone with a chainstitch machine? I need to have a pair of jeans hemmed.

AFAIK, Blue in Green in NYC and Self Edge in SF have their own.

I haven't found one in Boston.

- B

KObalto · Jan 23, 2009

bmulford · Jan 24, 2009

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I've never had to hem jeans, and without anyone around here with a chainstitch machine, I hesitate to hem these up. And someone my age wearing denim with mad stacking action might be sillier than I am already.

I'm still thinking about it. I don't look my age so it might work...maybe an experiment is in order.

- B

http://www.selfedge.com/chainstitching.php

for $15 you can have them chain-stitched to your liking. I'm sure you knew that, but others may have been wondering where to have it done.

KObalto · Jan 24, 2009

Okay, I just got my RRLs off Ebay NWT but there is no tag with country of origin or washing instructions. There was a paper label that stated I should wear them 30 days before either dry cleaning or washing, but it doesn't state what temperature you should use to wash them or whether you should dry them. Dry clean jeans? Do they shrink when you wash them? I got the jeans based on the recs in this thread and they put my 501s to shame. Any recs on care? Thanks?

dfagdfsh · Jan 24, 2009

Vox: I would leave them as is. I usually wear mine cuffed once, but I like stacking. I think the chunky heavy cuff looks fine.

You should wear raw jeans (if possible) fot at least 4 months before washing.

A Guy from Shanghai · Jan 24, 2009

Originally Posted by KObalto

Okay, I just got my RRLs off Ebay NWT but there is no tag with country of origin or washing instructions. There was a paper label that stated I should wear them 30 days before either dry cleaning or washing, but it doesn't state what temperature you should use to wash them or whether you should dry them. Dry clean jeans? Do they shrink when you wash them? I got the jeans based on the recs in this thread and they put my 501s to shame. Any recs on care? Thanks?

Usually, there should be a small whiteish tag at the center of the waistband stating the country of origin (RRL, AFAIK is made in usa).and size.

I believe all RRL are sanforized. So they won't shrink much, if not any, at all. I tried "hot soak" for a pair of 7FAM & a pair of AG in the past. I took measurements before and after, and they were exactly identical. (I was hoping to get some shrinkage at the waist area).

I believe people dry clean their jeans to preserve the indigo.

JO3B · Jan 24, 2009

please don't dry clean sturdy denim. its just cotton. its meant to take a beating, and it benefits from it. the most i'd do is turn the denim inside out in the wash. if you're worried about shrinking, skip the dryer. if you're really worried about shrinking, wear them a little moist so that they have no where to go. also remember that within reason, denim that shrinks in width (ie, waist or thighs, etc NOT length) will stretch back to wherever it was previous to the wash (not true for raw denim shrunk to fit) these are not precious suit pants. live a little in 'em. results may vary:

greekonomist · Jan 24, 2009

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

AFAIK, Blue in Green in NYC and Self Edge in SF have their own.

I haven't found one in Boston.

- B

Originally Posted by bmulford

http://www.selfedge.com/chainstitching.php

for $15 you can have them chain-stitched to your liking. I'm sure you knew that, but others may have been wondering where to have it done.

Thanks. How bad would it look to have them hemmed without chainstitching?

JO3B · Jan 24, 2009

chainstitching creates a roping affect that would only be subtley apparent with a regular stitch. its more about authenticity.

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