Please critique new suit and shirt

whistler · Jan 12, 2009

I had this charcoal suit and white shirt made by ANS Fashions, a Hong Kong tailor.

A guy from ANS Fashions occasionally visits cities around the world and does measurements for "bespoke" suits and shirts.

When he visited my home town about 1 month ago, I got measured up for this suit and shirt, and they have just arrived in the mail. The jacket was copied from another of my MTM jackets that I like.

The guy from ANS Fashions will visit again in a couple of weeks to make any necessary adjustments. I would appreciate any comments on the fit of the suit and shirt.

Suit fabric is super 150s wool.
Tie is Fendi.

porcelain monkey · Jan 12, 2009

Looks good overall. I am by no means an expert, but I might see a couple of things. One sleeve - your left - may be a bit long, and the pants could be a bit long. I see some pulling on the back, but it is hard to tell what that is because the front looks good. A side picture might help determine if the sleeves look OK. From the back it looks like some fabric is bunching around the back of your arms, but it could just be the way you are standing.

Edit: sorry, I did not scroll over to see your other pictures. The sleeves look a little off, but I don't know enough to tell you why. Also, it looks like the seat needs to be let out a bit. Does it feel tight?

Luca Brasi · Jan 12, 2009

I'm sure this could be nit-picked by someone more knowledgeable but I think the suit looks smashing to my layman's eyes. Fabric looks really nice too.

The shirt however could really use some taking in, unless you really want a baggy fit. I'm talking both arms and body. From the side picture it looks like it could even be a little big in the neck.

AntiHero84 · Jan 12, 2009

Looks like it's amateur day.

The jacket fits very well in the waist and shoulders, but I agree the sleeves could be shortened a bit. Most of the guys on SF like to see a fair ammount of cuff. Pant legs could also be shortened if you wanted, but a little break never hurt anyone. The shirts could definitely be taken in, but only if you want the slim fit look. And I agree, the sideview of the collar looks strange.

How many fingers can you comfortably fit into your collar while wearing the shirt?

Aside from the minor critiques, I think the suit and shirt look very nice. While you may get criticism on the boards, IRL you will look very well put together.

Sleats · Jan 12, 2009

Front wise the suit looks ok but the back looks like the guys have just altered a standard size jacket pattern and reduced the back seams to make it fit your waist size rather than grade it all the way around giving it an over tailored look at the back which draws attention to the fact that the shoulders are slightly too big.

but I am sure still better than RTW and comments are of course only my opinion on it but hope you get lots of use out of it.

Shirt fit looks quite off, obviously depends largely on how much fabric you like but for my taste I would lose a good few inches on the body section of it and on the arms to reduce the puffiness of it.

whistler · Jan 12, 2009

Originally Posted by porcelain monkey

Also, it looks like the seat needs to be let out a bit. Does it feel tight?
I agree the jacket appears to be pulling at the seat, although it doesn't feel tight when I'm wearing it.

Originally Posted by Luca Brasi

The shirt however could really use some taking in, unless you really want a baggy fit. I'm talking both arms and body. From the side picture it looks like it could even be a little big in the neck.
Yes, I also think the shirt is too baggy. I'll have to get them to take it in.

Originally Posted by AntiHero84

And I agree, the sideview of the collar looks strange. How many fingers can you comfortably fit into your collar while wearing the shirt?
I can fit two fingers into the collar. Is this too much? I agree the collar looks a bit strange from the side.

Originally Posted by Sleats

Front wise the suit looks ok but the back looks like the guys have just altered a standard size jacket pattern and reduced the back seams to make it fit your waist size rather than grade it all the way around giving it an over tailored look at the back which draws attention to the fact that the shoulders are slightly too big.
This is interesting. I thought the back looked a little off but couldn't work out why. This was supposed to be a "bespoke" suit, but as you say they are probably just be working with standard jacket patterns. I also feel that the shoulders are just *slightly* too big.

grimslade · Jan 12, 2009

The back should be smooth. It isn't. It's too tight through the waist and too loose around your shoulder blades. This is not a nit--it should be fixed. The sleeves are pitched too far back, which is why they are rippling across the backs of them that way. The shirt collar is a 1/2" too big and the pants have a slight balance issue, although pulling them up a bit in the back might help that.

I am not a tailor, and some think me clueless, so this critique is for entertainment purposes only.

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Please critique new suit and shirt

whistler

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porcelain monkey

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Luca Brasi

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AntiHero84

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Sleats

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whistler

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grimslade

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