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I stopped at Venanzi during lunch and spent some time talking to the proprietor, Eugene Venanzi. I thought they had a lot of beautiful things, particularly their cashmere ties. The taste level seems a bit higher than at other high-end Manhattan men's stores. Eugene seemed like a nice man--but maybe a little too eager to 'teach' me. I was surprised to learn and hear a few things:
1. They sell RTW suits manufactured in Italy, but they also create bespoke suits entirely in-house (including trousers), with the exception of buttonholes. They do not sell MTM. From what I could tell, it was true bespoke. Eugene discussed other New York bespoke tailors and seemed to be generally cynical, although I can't remember exactly who he did or didn't like.
2. Eugene did not believe that the sleeves of my double-breasted suit were shirt-set and insisted that the shoulder was padded. He categorized my suit as Roman in style, not Neapolitan. He also seemed to think the extra fabric between the shoulder and chest was a mistake.
3. He was more familiar with Rubinacci as a RTW retailer than as a bespoke operation.
4. Apparently, Oxxford no longer handstitches lapels.
5. He believes the Sicilians are the most talented tailors in Italy--more so than the Neapolitans.
I don't think he was necessarily right about everything, but he seemed very well-versed and welcome to conversation. I don't know why I started this thread. Just bored.
Thoughts?
1. They sell RTW suits manufactured in Italy, but they also create bespoke suits entirely in-house (including trousers), with the exception of buttonholes. They do not sell MTM. From what I could tell, it was true bespoke. Eugene discussed other New York bespoke tailors and seemed to be generally cynical, although I can't remember exactly who he did or didn't like.
2. Eugene did not believe that the sleeves of my double-breasted suit were shirt-set and insisted that the shoulder was padded. He categorized my suit as Roman in style, not Neapolitan. He also seemed to think the extra fabric between the shoulder and chest was a mistake.
3. He was more familiar with Rubinacci as a RTW retailer than as a bespoke operation.
4. Apparently, Oxxford no longer handstitches lapels.
5. He believes the Sicilians are the most talented tailors in Italy--more so than the Neapolitans.
I don't think he was necessarily right about everything, but he seemed very well-versed and welcome to conversation. I don't know why I started this thread. Just bored.
Thoughts?