Heavy Weight Overcoating

brescd01 · Jan 3, 2009

I was thinking a double-breasted overcoat from birds eye fabric as depicted in the famous picture of the Duke (this fabric has been characterized as tweed by Michael Alden but it does not look at all like tweed), but where to get 900 gram-plus fabric (besides the London Lounge Cloth Club)? Even if I were a member, the Cloth Club fabrics are selected by Alden and have lengthy delivery times (some of their projects have dragged on for years).

Will · Jan 3, 2009

Originally Posted by brescd01

but where to get 900 gram-plus fabric (besides the London Lounge Cloth Club)?

You could also ask yourself whether a Philadelphia resident really needs a ten pound overcoat. Though I suppose the cardiovascular benefits of wearing one would be significant.

NoVaguy · Jan 3, 2009

Originally Posted by Will

You could also ask yourself whether a Philadelphia resident really needs a ten pound overcoat. Though I suppose the cardiovascular benefits of wearing one would be significant.

It can get really cold (below freezing, even occasionally below sub-zero) in Philadelphia.

Mark Seitelman · Jan 3, 2009

Have your tailor call Isles Textiles (516-480-0948). Stanley Cohen does not deal with the retail public, therefore, have your tailor call.

Isles handles British cloth. A request for a very heavy cloth might fall outside the usual books and inventory, but Mr. Cohen might be able to special order it.

Good luck.

Will · Jan 3, 2009

Originally Posted by NoVaguy

It can get really cold (below freezing, even occasionally below sub-zero) in Philadelphia.

Moscow is really cold. Philadelphia is moderate.

No reason the doctor should not have what he wants but for temperature control an 18 ounce topcoat is more than enough.

nordicstyle · Jan 3, 2009

Originally Posted by Will

Moscow is really cold. Philadelphia is moderate.

No reason the doctor should not have what he wants but for temperature control an 18 ounce topcoat is more than enough.

Maybe he wants to wear it without any other clothes under it?

NoVaguy · Jan 3, 2009

Originally Posted by Will

Moscow is really cold. Philadelphia is moderate.

No reason the doctor should not have what he wants but for temperature control an 18 ounce topcoat is more than enough.

I think there is a difference between normally being moderate and capable of being really cold. Philadelphia is moderate by Moscow standards, I guess. But it is capable of being really cold - especially, if, say, one goes outside during the evening after sundown, perhaps to catch a play downtown. I can see some utility for a 32 oz/900 g overcoat if one has a lifestyle that involves a lot of walking.

As it is, my double breasted sterlingwear peacoat is 24 oz, and I can feel the chill when the temperatures drop below freezing.

OxxfordSJLINY · Jan 3, 2009

Originally Posted by Will

You could also ask yourself whether a Philadelphia resident really needs a ten pound overcoat. Though I suppose the cardiovascular benefits of wearing one would be significant.

Actually, ten pounds (which is 160 ounces) is 4,960 grams, not 900 grams (which is 30 grams shy of three pounds). Three pounds, or 930 grams, FWIW, is 48 ounces.

Manton · Jan 3, 2009

Good grief.

Anyway, Bresch, I happen to know that Fox occasionally runs lengths of 43 ounce flannel. You should call them and say, "The next time you run a length of that, add four meters [or whatever you need] to the order, and I will pay for it."

They have done this for others, so I see no reason why they won't do it for you.

However, you will have a hard time finding anyone to make it. I know a guy in NY who has a length, and last I heard, he had taken to every tailor in NY, and they had all said that they couldn't work with it.

Sator · Jan 3, 2009

Originally Posted by Will

Moscow is really cold. Philadelphia is moderate.

The Russians from Moscow and Siberia I know complain that Sydney is cold in the winter because there is little heating and buildings are draughty. Traditional clothing suited for really freezing temperatures is widely available in Siberia, and indoors it is so over heated it is like a sauna. Not so in places like Sydney that aren't set for cold snaps.

The other thing is that your body becomes so acclimatised to warm weather that when the temperature drops you notice it more. I have been to places that are constantly sub-zero and you do get used to it.

Will · Jan 3, 2009

Originally Posted by OxxfordSJLINY

Actually, ten pounds (which is 160 ounces) is 4,960 grams, not 900 grams (which is 30 grams shy of three pounds). Three pounds, or 930 grams, FWIW, is 48 ounces.

A DB overcoat requires five meters of cloth if it has patch pockets and all the trimmings. There is some wastage but there is also the weight of the lining and canvas.

If I'm doing the arithmetic correctly, 900 gram fabric is 30 ounces per meter. Each meter of 30 ounce cloth weighs a bit less than two pounds. Five times two is ten.

Film Noir Buff · Jan 3, 2009

You need to get the real McCoy (Or is it McCoyavich?) and treat yourself to a Soviet style military/KGB coat. Probably bullet proof and will scrape the leather off a car seat.

Sator · Jan 3, 2009

The other thing that people who really want to make their overcoats warm shouldn't forget is that you can get your tailor to put in interlining in the coat. You could, for example, get hold of of some flannel, cashmere, or wool/cashmere blend suiting and then get your tailor to bast it in as an extra layer between the overcoating panels and the lining. In the chest the tailor could bast the interlining to the "wrong side" (inside facing towards you) of the canvas. The interlining need not be cut to the same pattern as the overcoat, as you can just line select parts of the coat, if you choose. However, that is extra work for the tailor and potentially costly.

edinatlanta · Jan 3, 2009

Originally Posted by Sator

The Russians from Moscow and Siberia I know complain that Sydney is cold in the winter because there is little heating and buildings are draughty.

+1.

Because of that, winters (or at least winter nights) in Oz can be pretty tough.

Especially if your place (like mine did) had large sliding glass doors to capture the view and stone floors.

brescd01 · Jan 4, 2009

Manton, can you elaborate? How did Alden get his tailor to use his fabric for his "practical coat?"

By the way, 6 lbs plus trimmings @ 900 grams, Will. Don't ask me to explain.

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