The Sartorialist: "Right Fit" for a DB suit

TheFoo · Dec 22, 2008

Originally Posted by Despos

What are dimplets, baby dumplings?

They are Tom Ford's speciality. Essential to the Look.

Originally Posted by CharlesAlexander

The peak lapels are little exaggerated for my taste, and I would have preferred a darker tie and better knot. The buttons also look a little weird.

What do you consider a 'better' knot and what's wrong with the buttons?

CharlesAlexander · Dec 22, 2008

Originally Posted by mafoofan

This is an Eredi Pisano suit? Makes sense. There's something very obnoxious about it.

Mafoo, I actually think you would look really good in this suit.

ThinkDerm · Dec 22, 2008

Originally Posted by CharlesAlexander

The suit's fit is fantastic and I love the fabric. The peak lapels are little exaggerated for my taste, and I would have preferred a darker tie and better knot. The buttons also look a little weird. I absolutely LOVE the pocket square and the fold.

Most importantly the look "fits" him. Overall a solid nine out of ten.

yeah, he looks good in it, despite all these "imperfections"

FWIW, i think the sleeves are a spot on fit.

itsstillmatt · Dec 22, 2008

Originally Posted by ThinkDerm

yeah, he looks good in it, despite all these "imperfections"

FWIW, i think the sleeves are a spot on fit.
You think that a person's arm should bulge out from the jacket just under the shoulder?

haganah · Dec 22, 2008

Originally Posted by iammatt

You think that a person's arm should bulge out from the jacket just under the shoulder?

This suit is RTW, non?

Despos · Dec 22, 2008

I would be very surprised if this was not RL. Those lapels have the disproportionate RL styling. The middle & lower buttons on the left front, Grimslades right, have been moved almost 1" further away from the front edge than the left side, Grimslades right.

Just for the record here is a simple explanation of the dimple on the sleeve under the shoulder.

Picture a circle as the armhole. Another circle as the sleeve. The sleeve circle is just 1/4" narrower than the armhole circle. This creates horizontal tension and the dimple occurs. Hold a pice of cloth in your hand and pull it horizontally, it will do the same thing. The other cause can be if the height of the sleeve circle is higher than the armhole circle. the excess length falls in and voila, a dimple appears.

Thats the explanation using circles, jerks.

vitaminc · Dec 22, 2008

Originally Posted by iammatt

I think we are looking to do it at the end of this week, or next weekend.

I think it is hysterical that people think the shoulder is too big. It is as though if the shoulder were even shorter, they think that his shoulder muscle would stop popping out. Makes a lot of sense

.

but if the shoulder is extended further with way more paddings added, it will throw off the balance of the sleeves (and look as those marsupials in NFL), no?

Originally Posted by grimslade

I think the misconception is that if the shoulder ended sooner, it wouldn't cave into the empty space above the deltoid. But what's funny is the way a misconception from AB's many threads is now infecting unrelated threads, and unnknowledge (groupthink) is being spread.

havent follow that ab trhead too closely, but were there any comments by legitimate tailors (as oppose to circle jerking igents) on how to solve that kind of problems?

TheFoo · Dec 22, 2008

Originally Posted by Despos

Thats the explanation using circles, jerks.

Ha, you just made my day

.

vitaminc · Dec 22, 2008

Originally Posted by Despos

I would be very surprised if this was not RL. Those lapels have the disproportionate RL styling. The middle & lower buttons on the left front, Grimslades right, have been moved almost 1" further away from the front edge than the left side, Grimslades right.

Just for the record here is a simple explanation of the dimple on the sleeve under the shoulder.

Picture a circle as the armhole. Another circle as the sleeve. The sleeve circle is just 1/4" narrower than the armhole circle. This creates horizontal tension and the dimple occurs. Hold a pice of cloth in your hand and pull it horizontally, it will do the same thing. The other cause can be if the height of the sleeve circle is higher than the armhole circle. the excess length falls in and voila, a dimple appears.

Thats the explanation using circles, jerks.

So how do you fix that kind of problem? widening the sleeve circle?

A Y · Dec 22, 2008

Originally Posted by Despos

What are dimplets, baby dumplings?

They are a secret cut by top master tailors with ponytails.

The suit looks too tight to me.

--Andre

CharlesAlexander · Dec 22, 2008

Originally Posted by mafoofan

What do you consider a 'better' knot and what's wrong with the buttons?

The knot just looks a little sloppy, I would have preferred a very neat FIH. The buttons themselves are OK, it's the position of the buttons that's a little weird.

But I am nitpicking, overall I love the look.

cuffthis · Dec 22, 2008

Other than the 2 buttons on the sleeves, this is classic RL to me. The shape of the peak lapels as well as the fabric point me clearly in that direction.

To be further definitive, I say RL from the early 1990's/late 1980's.

Infrasonic · Dec 22, 2008

Originally Posted by iammatt

You think that a person's arm should bulge out from the jacket just under the shoulder?

Manton · Dec 22, 2008

Hard to judge fit with that pose. From what I can tell of the cut, I don't think it works for him, and it is certainly not something I would choose for him (or for me).

grimslade · Dec 22, 2008

Originally Posted by Despos

I would be very surprised if this was not RL. Those lapels have the disproportionate RL styling. The middle & lower buttons on the left front, Grimslades right, have been moved almost 1" further away from the front edge than the left side, Grimslades right.

Just for the record here is a simple explanation of the dimple on the sleeve under the shoulder.

Picture a circle as the armhole. Another circle as the sleeve. The sleeve circle is just 1/4" narrower than the armhole circle. This creates horizontal tension and the dimple occurs. Hold a pice of cloth in your hand and pull it horizontally, it will do the same thing. The other cause can be if the height of the sleeve circle is higher than the armhole circle. the excess length falls in and voila, a dimple appears.

Thats the explanation using circles, jerks.

I'm so confused. Which buttons were moved?

The Sartorialist: "Right Fit" for a DB suit

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