• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

logsdail or raphael?

AvariceBespoke

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2007
Messages
1,068
Reaction score
2
Originally Posted by Despos
I have little if any input as to the styling. Yachtie is the designer.

There is a small difference in body proportions here.

AB is a 42 or 44 chest with a 31" waist.

Y is a 48 chest with a 1" drop


What does that mean? what are you implying
 

aragon765

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 12, 2007
Messages
567
Reaction score
63
Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke
What does that mean? what are you implying

Where did that "head explode picture go??

oh wait, here it is:

HeadExplodeBig.gif
 

Manton

RINO
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Messages
41,314
Reaction score
2,879
Here are my impressionistic impressions of both:

For my first commission from each (many years ago in both cases), I did not specify any changes to their house style, I just let them do what they do.

The fit in both cases was perfect. Logsdail made a very "Savile Row" coat: straight shouldered, clean chest, nipped waist, trim hip. Raphael's sholder was padded, but more sloped, chest also clean, and hip trim. Overall, Raphael's coat was a bit leaner. The big differences were that Raphael's front canvas is super soft, Len's is quite a bit more substantial; and Raphael's silhouette is overall more rounded, whereas Len's is a bit straighter (if you wanted to insult him you might say "boxy").

Subsequently, they each made me coats into the styling of which I had more input. Raphael added some drape, which rounded out the silhouette a bit more, while keeping the waist and skirt the same. He raised the button point and gorge and collar, widened the lapels, and -- crucially -- toned down the shoulders. If I had to classify these, I would call them "Italianate" or something -- some combination of English and Italian, or the A&S style as reinterpreted by someone with Italian flair. They are not so full as A&S -- quite a bit slimmer, actually -- but just as soft, if not softer. In fact, the only coat I have felt with comparable softness is a Rubinacci (and, no, I have not groped Mafoo, just hugged him).

Len agreed to make me a padless coat, and this he did. Totally no padding at all. Raphael has not done that, though the padding he does for me is quite slim and unobtrusive. Len also modified the gorge, notch shape, button stance, and some other things. The coat is not draped, and the canvas is still rather substantial. The silhouette is more rounded than the first coat, but still straighter than Raphael's. The armholes are a hair lower, and there is not enough fullness in back, which makes the coat wear slightly tight. Len says he can easily fix this for the next one, and I believe him, but I have not "been in funds" sufficient to get another one lately. He is expensive.

Another thing is, as flexible as Len is, he really hates 3 roll 2, whereas Raphael quite likes it, as do I. Raphael also does a very nice shirt-sleeve shoulder. I never asked Len about that, it's possible he can do it, but I would bet that even if he can, it is not his favorite style. Then again, he does not like high back brace trousers, but he made them for me and did a great job, so who knows.

Len's vest, I should say, is the best fitting vest that I have. I have some very good vests, but they all have the same problem: they don't quite hug the lower back, and the bottom of the back rides up inside the back strap. Len's vest hugs the lower back perfectly. I am not sure how he did it, or why others have not.

I recently had lunch with a very devoted Logsdail customer and got to see Len's "pure" cut. Strong, roped shoulder. Clean, hard chest. (I could tell it was hard because it really did not ripple as they guy moved.) nipped waist and slightly flared skirt. Fit perfectly. Was very obviously "bespoke" from a distance, both in how presicely it fit and in how totally different it looked from any RTW suit you could imagine.

I realize that this post is going to cause one or two aneurisms on the FNB forum. If funeral announcements are posted, please let me know as I might make a small donation to the widow(s).
 

Despos

Distinguished Member
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 16, 2006
Messages
8,767
Reaction score
5,776
Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke
What does that mean? what are you implying

Drop is the difference between your chest and waist measure. 6" is the norm in RTW.

40" jacket has a 34 waist trouser, thus a 6" drop.

Y has a 48" chest and a 47" coat waist, 1" drop. You have at least an 8 to 10" difference between your chest and waist. I am noting that his fit and look wold be dissimilar to yours.
 

TheFoo

THE FOO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
26,705
Reaction score
9,841
Originally Posted by Despos
you are the eggman, I am the walrus

Would that make Yachtie one of your eggmen, or is he the fishwife?

Originally Posted by yachtie
Your belt thread sealed the deal on that one.

Nah. Now everyone just asks me if I still need a belt.
 

itsstillmatt

The Liberator
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Messages
13,969
Reaction score
2,086
Originally Posted by Despos
Drop is the difference between your chest and waist measure. 6" is the norm in RTW.

40" jacket has a 34 waist trouser, thus a 6" drop.

Y has a 48" chest and a 47" coat waist, 1" drop. You have at least an 8 to 10" difference between your chest and waist. I am noting that his fit and look wold be dissimilar to yours.

FWIW, you make Yachtie look much skinnier than that. Now get to work on him, and have him order normal lapels.
 

vitaminc

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
2,398
Reaction score
5
Originally Posted by adambparker
Come on now. You expect to resurrect a year-old thread that was absurd in the first place after the monstrosities you've created these last couple weeks and get serious answers?

No, this is much more fun.

EDIT: Yachtie, you are a kind and generous soul.


ya lets **** all over this thread!!!
 

yachtie

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 11, 2006
Messages
4,455
Reaction score
26
Originally Posted by iammatt
Now get to work on him, and have him order normal lapels.

?!? What're those? I actually got a good approximation of notches on the latest one.
 

TheFoo

THE FOO
Dubiously Honored
Joined
Feb 11, 2007
Messages
26,705
Reaction score
9,841
Originally Posted by iammatt
FWIW, you make Yachtie look much skinnier than that. Now get to work on him, and have him order normal lapels.

Agreed. On both counts. I don't care who came up with them, the lapels are playing with my mind.

Originally Posted by yachtie
Need a belt?

Actually, yes. I'm building quite the collection of J. Press ribbon belts. You can send me one for Christmas if you feel so inclined.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 55 35.5%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 60 38.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 17 11.0%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 27 17.4%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 28 18.1%

Forum statistics

Threads
505,160
Messages
10,578,964
Members
223,882
Latest member
anykadaimeni
Top