logsdail or raphael?

^^^ Does Chris come up with a slightly different lapel for each of your orders? I wouldn't be surprised if he's playing some mind game with you.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Believe it or not, this list is not really that specific. Other than your preference for structured shoulders and a 'clean' suit (I assume you mean no drape), nothing points in the direction of one tailor over another. With regard to waist supression, there will be a point at which your tailor will tell you it is simply incorrect to supress more; the same goes for the height of your armholes. If he's a good tailor, no matter his method or style, he will give you as much shape as possible.

Double vents, flat front pants, 'year-round' fabric--none are distinctive requests.

A really good way to annoy your tailor is to come up with a whole list of nit-picky requests and requirements.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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^^^ Does Chris come up with a slightly different lapel for each of your orders?

We have some fun, yes.

Originally Posted by yachtie

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No need to PM, I'm not ashamed:

No drape, no problems.

I really like your first photo - the sport coat.

Its kind of a mix between peak & notch lapel in a way... very nice

Originally Posted by voxsartoria \t\t\t\t\t \t\t\t\t \t\t\t\tThe Tailor to the Stars???? - B

Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke

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david letterman is the one most referenced
I saw a suit Nino was making for letterman to match one worn by another star he is doing a show with. I have bumped into several celebs there. Most memorable was Sharon Stone, most surprising was a former rapper turned producer. Nino is surprisingly versatile.

Originally Posted by yachtie

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A really good way to annoy your tailor is to come up with a whole list of nit-picky requests and requirements.

I agree. I think it is not a bad idea to provide a framework to your tailor and then from there let them make suggestions based on their experience of doing this for a living.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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^^^ Does Chris come up with a slightly different lapel for each of your orders? I wouldn't be surprised if he's playing some mind game with you.

I have little if any input as to the styling. Yachtie is the designer.

There is a small difference in body proportions here.

AB is a 42 or 44 chest with a 31" waist.

Y is a 48 chest with a 1" drop

Raphael makes a nice straight built up shoulder. The guys who use him and post here do not ask for or get that shoulder, they get unpadded.

This will be my only serious answer to any of your threads, not that you care.

Do yourself and your wallet a big favor. Do not buy anything bespoke. Do not buy anything right now period. Try on as many different brands as you can, as much as I hate to tell someone to go and waste salespeople's time. You do not know what you want. What you are doing is the equivalent of going into a restaurant and telling the waiter that you want a "tasty meat dish" and then asking him a million quastions about the duck/beef/chicken/wild game/fish etc etc. Every tailor you mention is different from the last. Logsdail and Raphael are two diff. looks. Corvato could not be futher from Ford. You like Ford, then you don't like Ford. Then Despos, then this one. Stop it. Another piece of advice since he will not say it to you, if you take the same approach with Carl, he will promptly send you on your way and not bother with you. There are people on these interwebz that have developed negative reputations with NYC tailors and they will not deal with them and there is another guy that was the equivalent of you but in the shoe arena and there are shoe sellers that will not sell to him. Don't become one of those guys.

Originally Posted by AvariceBespoke

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What more of a direction do I need to provide? Can you be specific on what you have told your tailors you would like?

I agree about there being a limit to waist supression & high armholes - I will rely on a good tailor knowing the limits to both of those.

Obviously, "year-round" fabric is not distinctive but what am I to say now w/o looking at cloth? I will obviously need to look at selection.

My point isn't that you should have a clearer set of instructions or preferences; it's that much of what you are asking for is self-evident. That means one of two things to me: (1) your preferences really are very general, or (2) you just haven't picked up on how to identify the finer points.

So, you will have a harder time picking a tailor in the first place (people are making fun of you because it sounds like you are doing so at random), you will be less likely to know why you are unhappy with something, and the tailor won't have any meaningful guidance from you. I disagree that one should have to battle his tailor to get happy results, but it does seem that tailors work better when clients can have meaningful dialogues with them.

Originally Posted by edmorel

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This will be my only serious answer to any of your threads, not that you care.

Do yourself and your wallet a big favor. Do not buy anything bespoke. Do not buy anything right now period. Try on as many different brands as you can, as much as I hate to tell someone to go and waste salespeople's time. You do not know what you want. What you are doing is the equivalent of going into a restaurant and telling the waiter that you want a "tasty meat dish" and then asking him a million quastions about the duck/beef/chicken/wild game/fish etc etc. Every tailor you mention is different from the last. Logsdail and Raphael are two diff. looks. Corvato could not be futher from Ford. You like Ford, then you don't like Ford. Then Despos, then this one. Stop it. Another piece of advice since he will not say it to you, if you take the same approach with Carl, he will promptly send you on your way and not bother with you. There are people on these interwebz that have developed negative reputations with NYC tailors and they will not deal with them and there is another guy that was the equivalent of you but in the shoe arena and there are shoe sellers that will not sell to him. Don't become one of those guys.

I disagree with just about everything you say here as it conveys both poor logic and a misunderstanding of what my intentions are & what I've said.

Originally Posted by yachtie

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No need to PM, I'm not ashamed:

No drape, no problems.

Very nice! Congrats to both of you!

Originally Posted by edmorel

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There are people on these interwebz that have developed negative reputations with NYC tailors and they will not deal with them

I wonder if this is supposed to be a reference to me. I know that this is often alleged about me on the FNB forum, but everything I have read there is a lie. Not even a misunderstanding or an exaggeration but a lie. If you want to know the truth, just ask.

Originally Posted by yachtie

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A really good way to annoy your tailor is to come up with a whole list of nit-picky requests and requirements.

Agreed. But that's why it's good to know your preferences beforehand; most of them are taken care of the moment you pick which tailor you want to work with.

Originally Posted by Despos

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I have little if any input as to the styling. Yachtie is the designer.

I wouldn't say that, I really like the ticket pocket you suggested on the latest one.

There is a small difference in body proportions here.

AB is a 42 or 44 chest with a 31" waist.

Y is a 48 chest with a 1" drop

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yep, I'm a chub. Need more salads.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Agreed. But that's why it's good to know your preferences beforehand; most of them are taken care of the moment you pick which tailor you want to work with.

Now if only OP would start a thread asking for comparisons between different tailors...