Denim 101 for Men's Clothing

farfisa23 · Dec 16, 2008

Originally Posted by iammatt

5EP.

did you get those in the city? if so, where?

mmkn · Dec 16, 2008

Originally Posted by mmkn

Gonna look into Earnest Sewn MTM jeans to really get my seat fitted soon . . . any experience out there?

- M

I went and tried their custom jeans program this past weekend.

Things that are custom are the choices of denim, buttons/rivets, stitching, and hem length.

The pattern is based on whatever size fits you in their various models of jeans, so that is not custom.

- M

Douglas · Dec 16, 2008

Originally Posted by mmkn

I went and tried their custom jeans program this past weekend.

Things that are custom are the choices of denim, buttons/rivets, stitching, and hem length.

The pattern is based on whatever size fits you in their various models of jeans, so that is not custom.

- M

Well that's lame. Hardly MTM at all.

itsstillmatt · Dec 16, 2008

Originally Posted by farfisa23

did you get those in the city? if so, where?
MAC.

Douglas · Dec 16, 2008

What is the recommended length for iGent jeans?

My 5EPs (the ones I railed about earlier but that I've been making a more conscious effort to wear) drag on the ground a bit because that's sort of what I asked for. It also allows for cuffing if I wish.

But I'm realizing I probably don't want to cuff because I tend to wear them with darker, dressier shoes when it tends not to work. And the backs of the leg openings are starting to fray, which I once thought was cool but now maybe not so much. I'd like to show off more of my shoes too. Should I go full iGent, no break?

I guess the likely answer is going to be "post pictures."

Tarmac · Dec 16, 2008

Originally Posted by Douglas

What is the recommended length for iGent jeans?

My 5EPs (the ones I railed about earlier but that I've been making a more conscious effort to wear) drag on the ground a bit because that's sort of what I asked for. It also allows for cuffing if I wish.

But I'm realizing I probably don't want to cuff because I tend to wear them with darker, dressier shoes when it tends not to work. And the backs of the leg openings are starting to fray, which I once thought was cool but now maybe not so much. I'd like to show off more of my shoes too. Should I go full iGent, no break?

I guess the likely answer is going to be "post pictures."

IMHO an older man who usually wears suits and dress shoes and then wears jeans on the weekend should hem them to trouser length, ie what your tailor would recommend.

lefty · Dec 16, 2008

I think stacking only works on skinny kids and skinny denim. I wear a cuff as it reminds of my first jeans many years ago and I like the look. If you're thin enough and wearing slim denim the no break hem looks great with boots. GS is a good example of that.

lefty

AlanC · Dec 16, 2008

Originally Posted by iammatt

So I bought these yesterday with the help of our erstwhile counselor. I think they'll end up being very good. Thoughts?

http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/1466/001kj2.jpg

I like it a lot, although I'd personally go for a little shorter inseam.

Just curious, what socks did you wear with that?

Douglas · Dec 16, 2008

Originally Posted by Tarmac

IMHO an older man who usually wears suits and dress shoes and then wears jeans on the weekend should hem them to trouser length, ie what your tailor would recommend.

OK then, another dumb question - it's OK to hem raw denim just like you would regular trousers, right? Unlike washed denim where you would detach the hem to try to keep it looking like the hem is faded with "vertical" creases...???

itsstillmatt · Dec 16, 2008

Originally Posted by AlanC

I like it a lot, although I'd personally go for a little shorter inseam. Just curious, what socks did you wear with that?
I think off-white cotton, but am not sure. I'm going to see what the length looks like after several wearings and a wash before I make any decisions on it. BTW, anybody have any suggestions for good gray or white

jeans?

Soph · Dec 16, 2008

Originally Posted by Parker

Great thread. Can't believe I didn't see this before. I think a lot of MC guys can learn a thing or two from the SW dudes. I'm in jeans a lot and the couple pair I always end up wearing are Levis 1947 LVC and Earnest Sewn Filson. I've also been into Levis 514 cut. Denim quality sucks, but they're cheap and fit well. I think a straight leg dark denim jean is essential for most guys. At some point you're gonna be in jeans, so might as well have something well-made and well-cut. I thought AHarris' post was great.

Matt, I like the 5EPs. Superb denim and details. Probably the best quality jeans I have.

As for the sport coat and jeans thing. I do it. But I still think of it as a style mullet: business on top, party down below. Pic from a recent WAYWT post below. Probably doesn't work with the tie, but I did it anyway. I think jeans look best with shirt-jacs and things like military or safari jackets in rustic fabrics.

Good show. I found ES Filson (16 inch hem) work great with jackets and a bit more dressed up. I hem them with just a slight break. Essentially they act as a trouser for me where grey flannels are just too formal and out of place. The fabric also seems to complement linen and cashmere jackets well. I don't do ties or pocket squares when doing the jeans/sportcoat hybrid.

Soph · Dec 16, 2008

Originally Posted by mafoofan

I dunno, Matt. They're a bit bunchy. I'd go more dad and less dude. Cool chair and shoes.

Yes, I'd agree.

As a side note, wool jackets don't work as well as with jeans as do cashmere, linen etc. style jackets. Casual detailing on jackets (patch pockets, ticket pockets, etc.) and ditching the pocket square and tie seem to work well. Where I live this is a standard dressed up, going out style.

Levi's 514 slims for the budget guy work well too.
ES Filson/Fulton can be had at great discount via several outlets.

Grayland · Dec 16, 2008

Originally Posted by Tarmac

haha I will try to help.

It is extremely unlikely that the pair of 10-year-old jeans you have in your closet are in any way attractive today. Unless you are a denim collector, the only thing you could have possibly bought 10 or 15 years ago which would still look good today are raw LVC 501 47s or raw Lees which would have been pretty hard to chance upon in 1995. If you got plain 501s in a stone wash, those look horrible now, yes they look like grandpa jeans. If you own Lucky, Seven, Diesel, etc, you may look more up to date, but in a douchebag way.

So we've established that the jeans you have probably look bad, so now, what should you get?

These days, the iGent wears straight leg jeans. Not boot cut, not tapered. Obviously, if you have an overarching need for something other than straight leg, go for it. But you are straying from the iGent Weekender manual.

If you don't have a pair of dark jeans, you should get dark. Gray jeans, white, cream, light wash, are all fine. But you should have a pair of dark jeans as a go-to pair.

Recommendations: I can think of decent $50 jeans (Uniqlo straightleg one wash or raw non-selvage), $100-ish (any slim dark Gap or Naked and Famous), $150-ish (entry-level japanese repro nonselvage, or APC, or LVC 47 raw), and $200+ (Japanese repro). Walking down the street, these can look remarkably similar. They are relatively narrow (8 inches or less on the cuff), straight leg, dark, and have minimal or no back pocket design.

If you are on a really strict budget, I recommend Uniqlo straightleg or Gap on sale. This should run about $50.00. I would also recommend Lees authentics from their official website if they have your size. Lee is slashing the hell out of their prices.

If you just don't want to be bothered too much, go get LVC 47s. They are only $175 and they are almost always available.

If you want to go balls out, do research on japanese repro and other denim-culture brands. My personal favorites are Flat Head (incredibly unique color and fade, but still subtle) Iron Heart (excellent middle-of-the-road cut, 21 oz heavyweight), and Oni Blue (super slubby straight-leg)

Very helpful, Tarmac. Thank you!

voxsartoria · Dec 16, 2008

Originally Posted by iammatt

BTW, anybody have any suggestions for good gray or white

jeans?

I have these...

Nom de Guerre classic fit in gray

...they're not selvedge but still nicely made.

- B

itsstillmatt · Dec 16, 2008

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I have these...

Nom de Guerre classic fit in gray

...they're not selvedge but still nicely made.

- B
Those are the ones I like. How do you size relative to 5EP or Ironheart?

Denim 101 for Men's Clothing

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