guide to touching up your suit without wrecking it

mmkn · Nov 17, 2008

Originally Posted by jefferyd

Not sure what you mean by this.

Sorry, let's see if I can clarify.

This picture . . .

Originally Posted by jefferyd

pocket after

corresponds to this side . . .

It's not necessary (I'm just curious), and I'm not asking you to dissect a garment here, but do you have anything that shows an overly steamed seam . . . but on this side?

Thanks,

- M

mmkn · Nov 18, 2008

Originally Posted by jefferyd

I might point out . . . Obviously, fat tweeds won't show as much as finer fabrics will. Another reason to stay with heavy, hard-wearing goods.

Jd,

What would you consider "heavy, hard-wearing" cloth?

- M

tlmusic · Nov 18, 2008

Great post, OP! Thank you for taking the time to put it together.

Manton · Nov 18, 2008

Originally Posted by jefferyd

That's why this thread was called "how to touch up" and not "How to press your suit".

It still scares me. Will you hold my hand?

Holdfast · Nov 18, 2008

Originally Posted by Manton

I would be curious to read the comments of someone brave enough to try this. Post your experience. How well did it work? Tailors have always told me that pressing a suit well is a skill that takes a long time to learn, and that requires lots of practice and many demonstrations/corrections from an observing master.

That's why I have never tried. That and fear that I would screw it up.

I have to agree.

I love the OP's post; it makes fascinating reading. But I'm not going to dare pressing my stuff myself. Too much risk of something going wrong with what has always seemed a skilled task. I'm sure practice makes it straightforward. But I don't want to practice on my own stuff!

gdl203 · Nov 18, 2008

Originally Posted by mafoofan

You and Chris have me really paranoid about all the times I've steamed my jackets and suits in the bathroom. But I don't seem to have experienced any problems so far; what should I be looking for other than puckered seams?

Originally Posted by Cary Grant

Me too- I honestly don't think it's enough steam to matter- it doesn't get that hot. Just in there for enough minutes to relax a bit then out.

Same here.

The OP is a great post and is highly informative, for those who are brave enough and have the time to press their suits themselves.

I've been steaming my suits, jackets and pants for probably 10 years and I am very happy with the results - i.e. it takes the wrinkles out - and have never seen anything close to the bubbly seams that are pictured in this thread. Not sure what amount of steam was applied there and how long but I've never ever encountered such a result.

I almost never get my suits or jacket re-pressed - the best shape comes from steaming and wearing in my experience, that's how the suit/jacket conforms to the wearer's body.

gentleman amateur · Nov 19, 2008

Originally Posted by jefferyd

Not all fabrics have a pile and those do could pill from an over-aggressive brushing against the nap. If you have a spot to remove, go first against and then with, otherwise I would say just brush with the pile (which in most cases except some velvets goes down). I don't think it is necessary to brush inside the garment.

Thank you. I make my clothes. Well, not the tie.

try this
http://www.ifi.org/

Thanks for the response and thanks again for this excellent thread. I use a cleaners here in Japan that washes my shirts in cold water without starch, bleach, or softener and then hand irons my shirts. They also hand press my suits without dry cleaning them--at my request. I do use a double-sided Kent brush after every wear and hang and rotate.

I'll start to touch up my suits after this thread. How often should we get a professional full press--or can we ever learn this ourselves?

Wes Bourne · Dec 1, 2008

jefferyd, I remember reading somewhere that a 3 button jacket could be pressed/modified to a 3 roll 2. Is this correct? Should I even try to do this at home?

jefferyd · Dec 1, 2008

Originally Posted by Wes Bourne

jefferyd, I remember reading somewhere that a 3 button jacket could be pressed/modified to a 3 roll 2. Is this correct? Should I even try to do this at home?

You won't likely be happy with the results. To get the lapel to roll lower you really need to shorten the gorge a bit, and the chest piece will usually prevent you from lowering the breakpoint- some makers keep the chest piece well away from the roll line so you may be able to get away with it- you will have to press the crease out of the lapel, widen it a little bit and re-crease it. And then there is the matter of the buttonhole- for a proper 3 roll 2 the buttonhole should be made on the other side of the garment.

It can theoretically be done but it would look like a hatchet job.

J

Wes Bourne · Dec 1, 2008

Thanks J, I guess I'll just wear that suit as it is, until I really get tired of it.

dinted voice · Dec 4, 2008

I have a dilemma because I live in the middle of BFE. All the "cleaners" around here place the suit jacket on a machine that blows the steam and them press it by machine (NOT HAND!) if need be. What would you recommend? I think the fact of driving an hour and a half for a pressing seems a bit out there, but I don't want to wreck my suits either.

jefferyd · Dec 4, 2008

Originally Posted by dinted voice

I have a dilemma because I live in the middle of BFE. All the "cleaners" around here place the suit jacket on a machine that blows the steam and them press it by machine (NOT HAND!) if need be. What would you recommend? I think the fact of driving an hour and a half for a pressing seems a bit out there, but I don't want to wreck my suits either.

You should only be cleaning your suits once, twice tops, per year so a little touch-up in between wearings should be enough. You don't get out of BFE once or twice a year? Those things that blow the steam through them are just the most horrendous kind of torture for a suit......

raley · Dec 4, 2008

So where do you live/work now? Are you running your own shop now?

dinted voice · Dec 4, 2008

Originally Posted by jefferyd

You should only be cleaning your suits once, twice tops, per year so a little touch-up in between wearings should be enough. You don't get out of BFE once or twice a year? Those things that blow the steam through them are just the most horrendous kind of torture for a suit......

I should have elaborated. It is a MTM TaT suit I will be getting this weekend. I don't get them cleaned, etc that often just the initial pressing once it comes out of the packaging. I was more worried about the first pressing before I wear the suit.

jefferyd · Dec 4, 2008

Originally Posted by raley

So where do you live/work now? Are you running your own shop now?
Me? I live in Montreal now and work in the RTW & MTM business, with the odd smattering of bespoke.

Originally Posted by dinted voice

I should have elaborated. It is a MTM TaT suit I will be getting this weekend. I don't get them cleaned, etc that often just the initial pressing once it comes out of the packaging. I was more worried about the first pressing before I wear the suit.

Ah. Hope fully it won't be too badly creased- you may be able to get it into shape yourself if you are careful. One unfortunate thing about shipping like that is the sleeve can get creases which are very difficult to remove. PM me photos if you like and I'll give you my thoughts about it.

guide to touching up your suit without wrecking it

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