• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

The Anderson & Sheppard Expatriates Thread

ThinkDerm

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Jun 5, 2008
Messages
13,361
Reaction score
1,085
Originally Posted by voxsartoria
Couple more full body DeBoise silhouettes:

288439451_c5sPP-X3.jpg


292885520_jQnyo-O.jpg


- B


Really looks great, the grey nicer than black, and the orange PS makes it pop! and come alive.
 

novqilin

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2007
Messages
192
Reaction score
0
Originally Posted by M. Alden
The LL tweeds, including the Alden gunclub, are tweeds and not worsteds made to look like tweeds. I suspect the confusion stems from the association of tweed with the hairy, woolly, loosely woven variants from Harris or Shetland. The other style of tweed, known as "border" or "sporting" is equally tweed, a woolen spun Cheviot with a high twist finish that gives it a less hairy look. Examples of these "estate" tweeds can be seen in many border weavers' works and in the once available tweeds from Hunters of Brora.

Worsteds made to look like tweeds do exist. One of the well known examples is the excellent Glorious Twelfth book from Harrisons. This is a merino wool worsted spun cloth ie one in which the short staple length fibers have been combed out to give a flat and lustrous sheen.

Sporting tweeds are normally machine woven and this picture from the londonlounge site attests to the fact.

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...hlight=gunclub

Such machines are required to produce the twist sought for by gentlemen that require a solid, long wearing product. Harris tweed cloth is also made on machines but machines operated manually and are they are consequently more loosely woven. These tweeds make up in charm what they lack in staying power.

An experienced bespoke customer is normally alert to the use of the word "handmade" and realizes that this appellation can have value if applied to such acts as stitching, sewing, pressing, or carving, engraving, sculpting etc. Using one's hands to run a sewing machine or a manual loom is another thing entirely.

There are some good Shetland products on the market and the ones from Scabal pictured in this thread deserve particular merit. I too have had my eyes on the gunclub but for the time being I am expecting delivery on a brown herringbone from this book. At the clothclub, we have issued our first Shetland cloth and I had a chance to fit it this week.

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...pic.php?t=7902

I think our members will be very pleased.

M Alden


very useful info ! thank you !
 

novqilin

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2007
Messages
192
Reaction score
0
Originally Posted by academe
Vox-

I love the look of those soft shoulders by the way... Just had a quick question about the fabric of your tweed suit. What weight is it and which textile company? I know you may have mentioned this before but I seem to have missed it...


somehow I had a feeling that the A&S silhouette look quite differently on White guys and Asian, the length and the chest esp
 

academe

Distinguished Member
Joined
Feb 14, 2008
Messages
1,872
Reaction score
234
Originally Posted by novqilin
somehow I had a feeling that the A&S silhouette look quite differently on White guys and Asian, the length and the chest esp

How so? I think the silhouette would look slightly different depending on a particular individual's build... Andre Yew is a member here who is a Mahon climate. May want to see if you can dig-up photos of his garments for comparison...
 

Manton

RINO
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Messages
41,314
Reaction score
2,879
SB silhoutte. A bit "roomy" compared to what I get in NY, or what I see posted from Italy, but very, very comfortable.

p1030742le0.jpg
 

voxsartoria

Goon member
Timed Out
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
25,700
Reaction score
180
Originally Posted by novqilin
somehow I had a feeling that the A&S silhouette look quite differently on White guys and Asian, the length and the chest esp

It is possible that different bespoke makers might have styles that are most suitable for one build or another, and by approximate generalization, for men from different parts of the globe. For example, it is often asserted that aspects of how the Italians adapted SR style for their own interpretations pre WWII included solutions for a shorter build.

That being said, there are tall, short, slim, fat, long-legged, long-torsoed people everywhere (but we hope, not all of these qualities at once...). I think that most good bespoke makers can adapt to a wide range of body type.

Originally Posted by academe
How so? I think the silhouette would look slightly different depending on a particular individual's build... Andre Yew is a member here who is a Mahon climate. May want to see if you can dig-up photos of his garments for comparison...

Andre posted a shot of one of his DB suits earlier in the thread.

- B
 

Manton

RINO
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Messages
41,314
Reaction score
2,879
Andre Yew is Asian? I thought he was named after the tree.
 

RJman

Posse Member
Dubiously Honored
Spamminator Moderator
Joined
Dec 10, 2004
Messages
19,159
Reaction score
2,086
Originally Posted by Manton
Andre Yew is Asian? I thought he was named after the tree.

I thought momentarily he might be Rumanian -- you know, Andreiu.
 

A Y

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Messages
6,081
Reaction score
1,037
Originally Posted by Manton
Andre Yew is Asian? I thought he was named after the tree.

My parents, those jokers.
laugh.gif


--Andre
 

Manton

RINO
Joined
Apr 20, 2002
Messages
41,314
Reaction score
2,879
An interesting experiment: four pics of the same coat, on the same day.

Leaving the house:
p1030742le0.jpg


Early evening. Not sure what is causing the wierd buckling in the right shoulder:

p1030758tt8.jpg


p1030761nz7.jpg


Here it is without:
p1030781ki9.jpg



Note that it looks significantly different in every pic. Every pic shows some "flaw" or other, yet I can say that having worn it now many times, and taken it on a long trip, the fit and balance are spot on (with the exception of the sleeve length).

A cautionary tale about trying to glean too many conclusions from Internet pics.
 

yachtie

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 11, 2006
Messages
4,455
Reaction score
26
Originally Posted by Manton
An interesting experiment: four pics of the same coat, on the same day.

Leaving the house:
p1030742le0.jpg


Early evening. Not sure what is causing the wierd buckling in the right shoulder:

p1030758tt8.jpg


p1030761nz7.jpg


Here it is without:
p1030781ki9.jpg



Note that it looks significantly different in every pic. Every pic shows some "flaw" or other, yet I can say that having worn it now many times, and taken it on a long trip, the fit and balance are spot on (with the exception of the sleeve length).

A cautionary tale about trying to glean too many conclusions from Internet pics.


The canvas "works" over the course of the day. They probably all do.
 

novqilin

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2007
Messages
192
Reaction score
0
Originally Posted by Manton
An interesting experiment: four pics of the same coat,

A cautionary tale about trying to glean too many conclusions from Internet pics.


Hmmm... Right. I do see that lighting make a big difference.

but the silhoutte appears quite consistent to my eyes ... , well except the second pic
 

The Doctor

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2006
Messages
153
Reaction score
3
Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley
Lovely cloth MC!

yachtie - I'm not familiar with Harrison's Moonbeam - any pics?


I've made several from this bunch and it makes up really well. Sent this to a customer in Vancouver but I didn't want to let it go. It feels like cashmere. (I'm modeling)


HPIM0353_edited.jpg


Edwin DeBoise

www.steed.co.uk
 

Eustace Tilley

Timed Out
Timed Out
Joined
Sep 27, 2007
Messages
6,441
Reaction score
323
Nice - Moonbeam is fantastic stuff imo. I just had a sportcoat made in dark navy with rust checks (the last swatch in the book).
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 55 35.5%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 60 38.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 17 11.0%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 27 17.4%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 28 18.1%

Forum statistics

Threads
505,177
Messages
10,579,199
Members
223,891
Latest member
irvingburne
Top