Threadbearer
Distinguished Member
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2007
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I'm a thin guy with an 8" drop, so lately I've been having many of my shirts taken in. My tailor does great work, but he won't offer much advice. With him it's usually, "Whatever you want, Senor Threadbearer. You want the side seams, Senor Threadbearer? No problem. You want the darts. No problem. Whatever you want."
I don't know what I want. Well, that's not true. I want the shirt to contour to my frame. What I don't know is the best way to do that. When I first started going to this tailor, he did side seams AND darts on the same shirts, and the results ranged from good to fantastic. But then he botched a side seam job by taking it in a little too much, and since then he has been inclined to stick with darts only.
Are there general rules of thumb for when you go with side seams vs. when you go with darts If so, what are they? I've been under the impression that you take in at the side seams when you want to bring the shirt in sideways, toward your hip bones. And I thought you used darts to get the shirt to follow the curve of your spine and sort of cling to the small of your back. Is that right?
Related question: When you take a shirt in using the side seams, do you also have to open up the sleeve seams and remove fabric under the armpits?
I don't know what I want. Well, that's not true. I want the shirt to contour to my frame. What I don't know is the best way to do that. When I first started going to this tailor, he did side seams AND darts on the same shirts, and the results ranged from good to fantastic. But then he botched a side seam job by taking it in a little too much, and since then he has been inclined to stick with darts only.
Are there general rules of thumb for when you go with side seams vs. when you go with darts If so, what are they? I've been under the impression that you take in at the side seams when you want to bring the shirt in sideways, toward your hip bones. And I thought you used darts to get the shirt to follow the curve of your spine and sort of cling to the small of your back. Is that right?
Related question: When you take a shirt in using the side seams, do you also have to open up the sleeve seams and remove fabric under the armpits?