Harrisons of Edinburgh fabrics

Originally Posted by Manton

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Sator, when did you add militancy about metalurgic-weight cloth to militancy about frock coats and the evils of black tie at formal dinners?

I see you don't get about much these days, do you?

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...pic.php?t=8266

Not long after, Alden started this thread:

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...pic.php?t=8275

Now, kindly go off and put your name down for 10m of that good stuff.

I am quite warm and toasty in 14 ounce flannel or 16 ounce worsted.

16 Oz is my new general minimum. I look at anything less and I find it feels shockingly flimsy. That said, some of H Lesser morning trousering with a touch of silk in them feel much more full bodied than the 13 Oz suggests. A couple of the nicer designs in the Harrison's P&B Universal in the 15/16 Oz range are also appealing. There was a time when the whole of Sydney and New York city routinely went to work in 18-20 Oz cloth. It was just taken for granted.

Originally Posted by Sator

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I am putting in an order now for a 4m length of the 18 Oz Oxford grey micro-herringbone - enough for a three piece. If they offered it in 20-22 Oz, I would have taken it, but the 18 Oz design seemed to be more tightly woven than the 74179 20 Oz charcoal grey twill, or 74178 18/19 Oz Oxford grey twill, both of which seemed a bit too softly woven for my taste. I own a sample of Minnis 22 Oz cavalry twill that is very tightly woven, so I am certain that the sponginess is due to the weave rather than being a general characteristic of 20 Oz cloth.

I am ordering a couple of lengths of morning trousering. Alas, they are only offered in a puny 15/16 Oz, but I know of no merchant offering anything heavier. I was particularly taken with 74154 and the subtle lavender pinstripe in it. I've seen colour in old fashion plates but this is the first time I've found morning trousering like it in the flesh. I knew the moment I saw it that I simply had to have it. It was the first one in the two books that leaped out and grabbed my fancy like that.

Go for it, spoil yourself - try a genuinely full bodied cloth. You'll love the razor sharp lines and silhouette. You obviously appreciate it when it comes to trousers, so just imagine how good a coat will turn out.

yes i am really tempted esp by the mid grey herringbone, i have the two twills you mentioned waiting for pants to be made some times too

the birds eyes are nice in that book too but might be a little light for you hehe - but lot of options still!

hope you'll post the results

Originally Posted by Manton

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I am quite warm and toasty in 14 ounce flannel or 16 ounce worsted.

You are such a snowflake

I should add that my discovery of genuine full bodied cloths has been a revelation to me. I really have Alden to thank for the insight. Once you have tried it there is no going back. I don't even look at 13 Oz books any more.

The other day in 36 C/97 F heat, I found myself on the receiving end on a blast of hot air. In my 16 Oz three piece, it was like water off a duck's back. If I were wearing 9 Oz fresco that heat would have gone straight through.

Originally Posted by Sator

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The other day in 36 C/97 F heat, I found myself on the receiving end on a blast of hot air. In my 16 Oz three piece, it was like water off a duck's back.

I feel I am on the receiving end of another blast of hot air.

Flatulence troubling you of late, Will?

Originally Posted by iammatt

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I saw two members wearing triple check suits at the same time. They were so cute, like the Bobsey twins.
The similarities while wearing triple check are compelling

Originally Posted by Sator

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When I was in Jungmann & Neffe in Vienna I came across some incredible overcoating that felt like it was about 36 Oz weight. It felt like carpeting. I nearly brought some. Now that could have stood up on it is own.....

I think your post re: Jungmann & Neffe could do with some editing, especially the part where you noted with some glee how you 'corrected' the salesperson regarding the Vicuna cloth that you claimed had to be vintage since it was made in Peru, and that LP had a lock on the market.

Check your facts again because you are wrong.

I asked at Jungmann and they said that it was pre-ban vicuña overcoating. It said vicuña on the selvedge but carried no merchant or mill name on it - whether Harrisons or Loro Piana. Of course, there is a illegal vicuña, though I didn't stand up and accuse them of selling that. I was a little suspicious but it felt fine enough to be vicuña.

If you know specifics about the bolt in question (you've doubtless seen the bolt in question at the store yourself) do tell. Enlighten me.

BTW why are you getting so worked up about it? The really heavy overcoating at Jungmann was wool.

Originally Posted by Sator

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I asked at Jungmann and they said that it was pre-ban vicuña overcoating. It said vicuña on the selvedge but carried no merchant or mill name on it - whether Harrisons or Loro Piana. Of course, there is a illegal vicuña, though I didn't stand up and accuse them of selling that. I was a little suspicious but it felt fine enough to be vicuña.

If you know specifics about the bolt in question (you've doubtless seen the bolt in question at the store yourself) do tell. Enlighten me.

BTW why are you getting so worked up about it? The really heavy overcoating at Jungmann was wool.

If I remember correctly, you stated that the salespeople told you it was from Peru and that it was new stock, and you corrected them. I am not talking about 'illegal' vicuna - if you check the relevant governing body that regulates the fiber, you will see that there is at least one Peruvian weaver who makes Vicuna cloth: Gruppo Inca.

Worked up about it? hahaha, if I were you would know about it.

No they didn't say it was new stock. When I walked in, I did ask in general if they had any vintage cloth in general and they said no. They said it was pre-ban vintage stock when I asked specifically about that item. However, the vicuna in question looked old with a yellowing selvedge. The really heavy woollen overcoating also looked old. I just don't know of anyone who weaves stuff like that now. The two items happened to sitting next to one another.

However, you could be right it may be from a Peruvian weaver. Perhaps the ladies in the store weren't certain themselves. However, there was no maker on the Selvedge.

Originally Posted by Manton

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Sator, when did you add militancy about metalurgic-weight cloth to militancy about frock coats and the evils of black tie at formal dinners?

Originally Posted by Sator

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I see you don't get about much these days, do you?

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...pic.php?t=8266

Not long after, Alden started this thread:

http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...pic.php?t=8275

Now, kindly go off and put your name down for 10m of that good stuff.

Not to mention screeds that lounge suits are for the beach.

Seriously, Sator, do you have Reynaud's or something?

I just absolutely love the immaculate clean, crispness of 16-24 Oz cloth. I think it is just absolutely amazing. As I say, I hardly notice the difference between 9 Oz fresco and 16 Oz worsted in 36 C. You reach a point where the cloth shields you from the heat. It makes me think these lighter "summer" weights/weaves are just a gimmick. Michael Alden loves to joke about the people who think a heavier cloth will cause something like a thermonuclear melt down. Usually, such people have never worn a coat of 20 Oz cloth in their life, but just know it will happen anyway. They are usually amazed how comfortable and effortless such cloth is.

I should also say I have always been highly sensitive to heat. I can't stand saunas. I hate sitting on the beach. I enjoy the local winters. That's why I wear heavier weights in the summer heat - for the same reason the sheep in the Aussie outback wear their coats in the heat. Insulation works both ways: to keep out the cold and to keep out the heat.

With that I will once more heap praise on the glories of the P&B Universal books from Harrisons. They are superb, absolutely superb. Forget the rest and get the best.

BTW It's hard to exhibit Raynaud's phenomenon when it's constantly 30 C/ 86 F. The usual recommendation is to wear gloves, not to wear 22 Oz clothes.

Originally Posted by Sator

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The other day in 36 C/97 F heat, I found myself on the receiving end on a blast of hot air. In my 16 Oz three piece, it was like water off a duck's back. If I were wearing 9 Oz fresco that heat would have gone straight through.

Originally Posted by Will

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I feel I am on the receiving end of another blast of hot air.

This is witty. I approve.

Originally Posted by Sator

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Flatulence troubling you of late, Will?

Originally Posted by T4phage

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I think your post re: Jungmann & Neffe could do with some editing, especially the part where you noted with some glee how you 'corrected' the salesperson regarding the Vicuna cloth that you claimed had to be vintage since it was made in Peru, and that LP had a lock on the market.

Check your facts again because you are wrong.

Originally Posted by Sator

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If you know specifics about the bolt in question (you've doubtless seen the bolt in question at the store yourself) do tell. Enlighten me.

BTW why are you getting so worked up about it? The really heavy overcoating at Jungmann was wool.

Originally Posted by T4phage

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Worked up about it? hahaha, if I were you would know about it.
It's OK, he'll probably run to the more advanced forum and mock you there.