Fitting a Suit to Your Body Type

beirut · Aug 12, 2008

Hello SFers!

I'm currently in the process of transforming myself from a rag wearing college student into a well-dressed, well spoken academic, but I've run into some problems along the way. After lurking in The Forum for a few weeks I've learned a great deal about suit materials, construction, and styles, but I still don't understand how to pair suit features to my body type.

I'm 6'1", but I weigh only 122lbs. I guess you can say I'm a bit "skeletal." Is it stylish for me to appear tall and skinny, or should I try to avoid elongating my form further? What type of shirt collar, button height, lapel width, tie width, and other suit features would complement my slim form to accomplish this (why? I really want to learn)?

Douglas · Aug 12, 2008

Jesus eat something.

Reborn · Aug 12, 2008

I thought I was bad at 5'10 135lbs...

Orange · Aug 12, 2008

There's only so much clothing can do for you. The problem I see here is that it is doubtful that any designers design clothing for people of such a small niche. At least for mens designers, you might have more luck with womens clothing.

haganah · Aug 12, 2008

That sounds truly disgusting. Talk to arnach, he's a body builder with a drop of 4 though and can help.

beirut · Aug 12, 2008

My body type is caused by a rather severe case of Crohn's disease, so it isn't changing any time soon. Actually, I eat 8 large meals a day to keep this "bulky" size.

I'm willing to go MTM, if not bespoke, to find a suit that fits. My problem right now is that I don't know what features would complement my shape going into it. I LOVE three piece suits, although it's still unclear to me whether they are a fashion faux pas or not, but I'm not sure if a vest would contrast my body type too much. Any advice at all would be appreciated.

vitaminc · Aug 12, 2008

Originally Posted by beirut

Hello SFers!

I'm currently in the process of transforming myself from a rag wearing college student into a well-dressed, well spoken academic, but I've run into some problems along the way. After lurking in The Forum for a few weeks I've learned a great deal about suit materials, construction, and styles, but I still don't understand how to pair suit features to my body type.

I'm 6'1", but I weigh only 122lbs. I guess you can say I'm a bit "skeletal." Is it stylish for me to appear tall and skinny, or should I try to avoid elongating my form further? What type of shirt collar, button height, lapel width, tie width, and other suit features would complement my slim form to accomplish this (why? I really want to learn)?

1. start eating.
2. talk to some trainer about bulking up.
3. in the mean while, stay away from anything that makes you appearing tall and skinny.
4. Shirt collar should compliment your face shape, which I would've guessed very pointy and bony, so spread collar could round it down a bit.
5. button stance should be set slightly higher, lapel should appear wider with lower gorge to give you some chest.

how would you go about buying a suit that fits you is going to be a major problem...

estevener · Aug 12, 2008

I think 3pc is too strong of a statement to make coming fresh out of college, although it will give you some width.
Pinstripes are probably out for you, but why not go for a microherringbone or nailhead, a small pattern for your first navy/grey suit.

For your specific needs you'd probably be best going straight for bespoke, it sounds unlikely that MTM will be able to suit your unique physique best. I'd check out Mytailor.com or WW Chan. mytailor does make it easier to get your orders online though.

Orange · Aug 12, 2008

If you do go the route of bespoke I'd advise you to go to the ones recommended in Hong Kong. They probably have had their fair share of slim clientele and would be used to making suits for a similar body type.

SirSuturesALot · Aug 12, 2008

Originally Posted by beirut

My body type is caused by a rather severe case of Crohn's disease, so it isn't changing any time soon.

Ouch.

randallr · Aug 12, 2008

I am from Kalamazoo...actually Portage

fusherino · Aug 12, 2008

a guitar euthusiast was just telling me about kalamazoo guitars today. anyways, i am confident you can find something off the rack to fit you reasonably well. my brother was about 125 lbs when he started wearing suits, albiet a few inches shorter. he was shopping in the nordstroms boys section. i dont know what will work best, but i image youhave to go try things on in person. or maybe look for somethign from dior from bluefly? good luck

overdog · Aug 12, 2008

Originally Posted by fusherino

a guitar euthusiast was just telling me about kalamazoo guitars today. anyways, i am confident you can find something off the rack to fit you reasonably well. my brother was about 125 lbs when he started wearing suits, albiet a few inches shorter. he was shopping in the nordstroms boys section. i dont know what will work best, but i image youhave to go try things on in person. or maybe look for somethign from dior from bluefly? good luck

I don't know about that. I am 6'2, about 165 and I have a hard enough time to find something off the rack in my size. The OP sounds like he would need something like a 34L or 36L, and they just don't make those.

TheFoo · Aug 12, 2008

I'm skeptical of rules attempting to match fits and styles to body types. It matters much more that something fits right.

Anyway, a lot of rules just seem plain wrong to me. Larger fellows are often told they should wear longer, narrower point collars. The result is usually pretty egregious. I suspect a secret coalition of men's fashion magazines and menswear salespeople come up with these things.

philosophe · Aug 12, 2008

I'm very sorry to hear you're struggling with Crohns.

A few suggestions:

Be comfortable with your body shape. Make the most of what you have and don't bother with vain or impossible wishes for something else.

Try spread collars

Avoid pinstripes and other striped patterns--they'll make you look even taller and skinnier

Look for fabrics with some texture and pattern. This goes for everything.

Wear nice shoes. They'll make everything look better. Polish them frequently!

Wear clothes that really fit. Baggy clothes will make you look even skinnier.

Given your height and weight, you probably will need MTM clothing. Find a good men's shop and work with a competent salesman.

If you can afford Italian shirts, manufacturers like Barba may work well for you--lots of Italian shirts are very trim. Try shopthefinest.com.

Good luck!

Fitting a Suit to Your Body Type

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