Ordering from Anderson & Sheppard

After much thought I have decided to place an order for a suit with Anderson & Sheppard. I must admit that I came to this decision mainly due to the myth surrounding A&S and their cut.

Though, I do have one major concern. Past customers on the forums and beyond have said that A&S is not too keen on fittings and isn't receptive to customer comments and suggestions. Experience with US tailors has shown that I typically need four ior five fittings on my first suit, and I would hate to have to accept an A&S suit after just one or two fittings if it isn't perfect.

Is this a valid concern? Also, are they more flexible these days on accepting styling requests?

They are very professional at getting the fit right, so you're unikely to need four or five fittings. Usually two or three for the first suit, and it's rare to need more than one after that.

As to requests, it depends on what you're asking, and whether their system has improved (as I've heard it has) so they don't forget your request altogether. If you want a ticket pocket, fine. They might even make a 4x1 DB for you under protest. But when I was going there they were not a place where you could request a buggy lined jacket.

Originally Posted by Will

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They are very professional at getting the fit right, so you're unikely to need four or five fittings. Usually two or three for the first suit, and it's rare to need more than one after that.

As to requests, it depends on what you're asking, and whether their system has improved (as I've heard it has) so they don't forget your request altogether. If you want a ticket pocket, fine. They might even make a 4x1 DB for you under protest. But when I was going there they were not a place where you could request a buggy lined jacket.

Thanks Will. How about a simpler request, such as a leaner fit at the waist? Is that something they would consider, or would they always defer to their house cut?

You'd need to ask but I'll bet they make the house cut no matter what they tell you they'll do. It's in the genes.

I recently had a suit made at A&S, and they could not have been more helpful. I wanted something close to their house style, but they were quite happy to ask my opinions and try to accomodate these. There was also no sense at all that they were in a rush to get me out without adequate fittings - the strong impression that I had was that their main goal is to leave customers feeling very satisfied with their suits rather than trying to short-cut the process. They seemed like perfectionists. I am planning to go back shortly for a second suit.

Originally Posted by Will

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You'd need to ask but I'll bet they make the house cut no matter what they tell you they'll do. It's in the genes.

QFT!

Will, you have a way with words.

To the OP, I'll say I have no personal experience with A & S, but I"ve learned here and on AAAC that A & S is #1 in mystique. Dig you even consider another
tailors of high repute or just go straight to A & S.

Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric

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After much thought I have decided to place an order for a suit with Anderson & Sheppard. I must admit that I came to this decision mainly due to the myth surrounding A&S and their cut.

Though, I do have one major concern. Past customers on the forums and beyond have said that A&S is not too keen on fittings and isn't receptive to customer comments and suggestions. Experience with US tailors has shown that I typically need four ior five fittings on my first suit, and I would hate to have to accept an A&S suit after just one or two fittings if it isn't perfect.

Is this a valid concern? Also, are they more flexible these days on accepting styling requests?

It definitely matters whether you are seeing them in the US only or whether you order through London. If the former, expect to get one fitting: a forward fitting, after which your clothes will be shipped to you. If you go to London, you will get a skeleton baste and two or three subsequent fittings.

This appears to be A&S on the Sartorialist - looks pretty good (minus the haircut...)

Originally Posted by Manton

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It definitely matters whether you are seeing them in the US only or whether you order through London. If the former, expect to get one fitting: a forward fitting, after which your clothes will be shipped to you. If you go to London, you will get a skeleton baste and two or three subsequent fittings.

Their visiting tailor routine depends entirely on the fit at the forward fitting. Particularly the first time they'll want to make adjustments. By the second suit they'll usually ship after the forward fitting.

Originally Posted by Manton

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It definitely matters whether you are seeing them in the US only or whether you order through London. If the former, expect to get one fitting: a forward fitting, after which your clothes will be shipped to you. If you go to London, you will get a skeleton baste and two or three subsequent fittings.

Once again, this seems evidence that the traveling tailor experience doesn't really provide the same result as visiting a local tailor. If the product A&S delivers to its local customers benefit from the extra fittings, it seems the same should apply to what they send overseas. Either the local fittings are functionally useless and just for show, A&S is sloppier fitting local customers and makes up for it with more tries or overseas customers are getting a less well fitting product.

Originally Posted by tattersall

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This appears to be A&S on the Sartorialist - looks pretty good (minus the haircut...)

Morrissey is looking very young for his years.

Originally Posted by dopey

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Once again, this seems evidence that the traveling tailor experience doesn't really provide the same result as visiting a local tailor. If the product A&S delivers to its local customers benefit from the extra fittings, it seems the same should apply to what they send overseas. Either the local fittings are functionally useless and just for show, A&S is sloppier fitting local customers and makes up for it with more tries or overseas customers are getting a less well fitting product.

Well, it's partly driven by economics: their business model just does not allow for multiple overseas fittings. Partly, they just think they can pull it off, or most of the time. But if you talk to them, they will admit that they prefer to see new customers in London, just in case. But that after your pattern is worked out, whether you started in London or anywhere else, they will pretty much always give you only one forward fitting, which is what they think is all they need.

Originally Posted by tattersall

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This appears to be A&S on the Sartorialist - looks pretty good (minus the haircut...)

You must have not gotten the memo: it is obligatory on the clothing Interwebz to hate A&S.

Originally Posted by Grammaton Cleric

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Also, are they more flexible these days on accepting styling requests?

The Anderson & Sheppard of today is certainly more more flexible than in times past.

As I've mentioned before ... I became a client in the late 70s ... but after taking delivery of a sport coat (made of a house tweed that is a brownish green w/ blue windowpane ) in 1996 ... I stayed away for a while. I returned in 2005 or 06, selected a house tweed (same pattern as that in 1996 ... but this time in a light gray w/ brown windowpane) and began to talk to John Hitchcock about the detailing.

The firm accommodated single-button ... actually, John asked if I'd like it that way ... perhaps because I was wearing a single-button coat Richard Anderson made for me. Then when it came time to select the lining ... I was stunned when Matthew pulled out a number of samples including a soft buttery yellow. I choose that yellow ... something the old A&S was not likely to have had on the premises ... much less offered as a choice.

I might add the firm also accommodated my request for working buttons on the sleeves ... which was not originally an A&S preference. The A&S of yesteryear made a button hole ... but it was sewn shut. Of course, that way one couldn't even consider the vulgar option of leaving a sleeve button open. I guess I just prefer to have my options ... even vulgar ones.

Not the best picture in the world -- I'm neither experienced at or into photographing myself in my clothing -- but below is the coat ... illustrating both the single button & the color of lining.