The Rubinacci Thread.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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The more I look at the examples of the Rubinacci DB suit, the more I like it...and I liked it a lot when I saw my first photograph of one.

- B

+1,000,000. I can't wait to see a vested Rubinacci suit (but with a low cut 1B, 2B or 3R2B SB jacket and a classic style SB vest, preferably 6X5B and preferably with a notch lapel, though 5B and 6B and/or w/o a lapel will do just fine).

FWIW, 3R2B is three buttons rolled to two buttons.

Whnay, I love the shoulders on the jacket. The sloping with a slight rope bump at the sleevehead looks really great. This is a bit different than Matt's shoulder style, but I like it.

Originally Posted by iammatt

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iammatt, I like pretty well everything about this jacket, especially the fabric. Is it a vintage cloth, or something from a book?





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Here are some of my favorites from Matt: The man himself:

Originally Posted by Manton

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FWIW, "front cut" (at least in SR lingo) does not refer to the front dart, it's just another term for side bodies. They typical A&S coat has one or two darts that end at the pocket. A front cut coat has a rear dart that goes from the scye to the hem, hence the coat has a sidebody or panel. The coat body will be made from six rather than four pieces.

I don't know if SR even has a term for a front dart that runs to the bottom, or even if any SR tailors ever do that. I don't recall ever seeing it.

Interesting to note, Manton. Anyway, my general comment stands: whnay's DB looks exceptional, and noting the differences from matt's (the front dart, the shoulders) just reinforces that the appeal of the LH suits posted here on SF isn't reducible to one particular detail or another.

Don't recall seeing Matt's tux before...it's perfect!

As a frequent lurker who mainly uses SF to find deals in B&S, I have only read that iammatt had a nice collection of Rubinacci bespoke clothing. That last post by whnay of pics from Matt's collection resoundingly proves it. I love the sportcoats especially. Two questions for you, iammatt, if you are kind enough to respond:

1) Are your cuffs 2" or are they bigger than that? I love them and have recently asked for 2" cuffs on several of my own things.

2) Why the longer rise? Was this your choice or Mariano's influence?---The only thing I think I would change is the pant rise on some of your outfits (I'm thinking particularly of one of the lighter gray suits from an earlier post in the thread). I love your jacket length, waist-supression, button-stance and the trimmer leg on your trousers. These all seem to harmonize well. The one dissonant element I notice is the longer rise on pants. It seems to shorten your lower body a bit.

Originally Posted by mpickens8982

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The one dissonant element I notice is the longer rise on pants. It seems to shorten your lower body a bit.

I thought a longer rise had the effect of lengthening the leg.

To my eye, the longer the rise, the shorter the inseam (assuming you wear the pant at the same spot on the waist). I find a longer inseam visually lengthens the leg.

Originally Posted by mpickens8982

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To my eye, the longer the rise, the shorter the inseam (assuming you wear the pant at the same spot on the waist). I find a longer inseam visually lengthens the leg.

Now, I'm not sure what we're talking about. I thought the "rise" was the distance between the bottom of the crutch and the top of the trouser. Thus a longer rise is higher waisted. And I thought higher waisted trousers lengthened the leg. Sorry for the confusion.

What I find so remarkable about whnay. and Matt's DB's are the elegance and grace of the lines. The fit seems perfect; shaped just enough to give form and definition to the body, but without any sense of tightness or constriction. Great stuff!

Originally Posted by RJman

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Also to attacking me...
Don't flatter yourself.

Sorry for any confusion on my end. We are operating from the same understanding of what rise means. To be more clear, I am not taking exception to where the pant is sitting on his waist. However, I think if the pant is going to sit there (which seems appropriate), the rise would look better shorter. Also, after looking at all the pics again, I really only find it noticeable on the light grey suit I mentioned earlier. None of the other pants seem nearly so long in the rise as those.

This jacket is awesome.

Everything that has been posted is quite nice but the following are my personal favorites.