Cantabrigian
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If you also assume that everyone who visits with a tailor posts about it on a message board, your assumption above would be correct.Originally Posted by dopey
Dopey, when you're on, there's no one better.
I met with Lucca a couple days ago. I found it very interesting but didn't think anyone else would.
A couple observations. (1) Lucca's a solid guy - cool, easygoing, etc. I figure that if I had spent my whole life with a pretty sweet future in the bag that I'd be a dilweed but he apparently chose a very different path. He seemed a lot older even though we're actually the exact same age.
(2) He definitely prefers a style somewhat different from his father's and is concious of that fact. The one suggestion he made was less drape in the chest - though he didn't say it like that. Right then I knew that we didn't have too much to talk about. Add to that the fact that he likes some super fine Loro Piana cloths and I was already worried about the day when Mariano retires. Though he did get some points back by recommending I get a suit in a gray donegal.
I'm going to get suit from the light gray LL Brisa cloth whenever that finally comes in.
The jacket he was wearing looked really good but, again, was cleaner and hip-er than what I like.
As I've thought about it a bit in my forumgeekier moments, the cut that Lucca wears strikes me as being in between the heavily draped Rubinacci style and what I've seen of MaFoo's sportscoat.
The common elements seem to be: a generally very soft construction with a soft, extended shoulder (usually camica-ed) and a non-flared skirt.
From there, I've seen two variations: the cleaner though not too lean (Lucca, MaFoo, Uppercase) version which has a more natural shape in the chest and a more suppressed waist and then the drapier Mariano / Iammatt version (though SF Matt has a pretty trim waist on his stuff too).
I guess there's a third version - they accidentally sent me someone else's suit. Lucky for them, this dude has a much, much bigger waist even though we're about the same height - I so I sent it back but not before having a good look at the suit.
I was surprised by how structured the shoulder was but, from what I could gather about how the guy looks, I think that's probably a good call. There are few things that I think look worse than a big dude wearing a soft, extended shoulder.
This isn't a very good photo for what want to show but hopefully it will illustrate my point about there being a couple different version that differ mostly in the chest:
Lucca:
Chi-town Matt:
The man himself:
(I know there are much better photos for illustrating what I want - let me see if I can find one)
I like both since I think they do both as well as anyone does those two styles. I know which one I prefer to wear - mainly for practical reasons - but really appreciate both.
