Large Men In Suits

pitboss12 · May 9, 2008

I was laid off recently and have been forced to get myself back into interview mode. This means prepping my suits for multiple rounds of interviews. However, during this process I realized that I have gained a lot o weight in the past year or so. I was a 44/46R. Now I'm looking at a 48R . Wearing such a large jacket feels odd. While it is not too tight or loose, it just seems big, probably because I'm not used to seeing so much fabric on me.

I understand the concepts of fit from reading SF threads for the past few months. Those concepts are fine when applied to slim guys but I don tknow if they can all be applied when considering larger guys. Can you please post or direct me to pictures of well suited large men to help me visualize the fit cues that I should be following?

By the way, I am hitting the weights and running in my freetime. I just wont get back to where I was by the time I (hopefully) start getting interview requests.

Thanks for your help and sorry for the long post.

Kamala · May 9, 2008

http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/search?q=reza

Golf_Nerd · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by pitboss12

I was laid off recently ...

... during this process I realized that I have gained a lot of weight ...

... those concepts are fine when applied to slim guys but ...

... by the way, I am hitting the weights and running in my freetime. I just wont get back to where I was by the time I (hopefully) start getting interview requests.

Thanks for your help and sorry for the long post.

Hello,

getting laid off is a big chance to change life.

Your life must have been strange that you have realized NOW to have gained weight.

Everbody is talking about the slim thing. A fitting suits is more impressive than a bad fitting suit (not everybody is looking like George Clooney but a suit will help fat guys too).

They will not hire you for wearing a suit!

If you have a lot of weight stop running and start walking (to loose weight you have the rest of your life).

We never get back to where we started!

globetrotter · May 9, 2008

boy, I hate to hit you with this - but when you are interviewing for a job it is very very important to be trying to lose weight. I was interviewing 2 years ago, and I am sure that several places really really liked me on paper, but then didn't offer me a job because they were turned off by my being fat. good luck.

pitboss12 · May 9, 2008

Kamala -- Thanks for the link.

Golf -- A busy schedule, all 3 meals rushed and at a desk, and 16 hour days for a year will do it to you. Going full speed until a few months ago.
I was a regular on the local 5k circuit, so running is my thing. I ate like I was still running but didnt expend the energy I was taking in. By the way, I dont understand what you mean by "They will not hire you for wearing a suit!" Can you clarify?

Globetrotter: I am aware of the stigma. That's why I want to try to minimize the effect with clothing while I work on correcting the problem.

Any more pics?

Thanks.

bigbris1 · May 9, 2008

Pick out the best suit you have that is right for interviewing & set a goal to get back into it.

I wish you the best with your career change.

globetrotter · May 9, 2008

from mantons book

globetrotter · May 9, 2008

watchingdetails2002 · May 9, 2008

Thanks for asking this question. In this day and age they judge us by the cover and not the qualifications. I love watching this site but I am a large man and have run into the prejudice by others on the slim side of life. I might be heavy but honestly you can't catch anything from me! Here is what I have learned you dress for your size.... Don't wear pleats on your trousers, Fit your suit coat for the widest part on your body. Heavy men carry it in different places. You don't have to dress like you are wearing a potatot sack. Try this link for Rochester Big and Tall. http://www.rochesterclothing.com/sto...UURHDQ**.node2

globetrotter · May 9, 2008

ok, I may get torn appart here - this is me in a bspoke suit. considering that I am obese, I think that this is a pretty good fit and drape.

dba · May 9, 2008

Golf_Nerd;1049823 said:
Your life must have been strange that you have realized NOW to have gained weight.
QUOTE]

Not necessarily, it can sneak up on you quickly. I have gone up and down in weight quickly during period in my life (eg. 160 to 142 in 2 weeks) and went from 40R to a 42/44R in the summer of 2006 (150-180) so I can definitely understand where the OP is coming from.

My advice though would be to stay big because it would be easier to take in should he lose weight rather than the other way around. I am kind of in that boat now in that i bought a little on the large side so will need to have my suits taken in a bit as I am back down to 160 and expect to stay in that neighborhood for a while as I've stabilized.

But to agree with Bigbris, definitely the most important thing will be to look good in the suit you do select fit-wise! You need to ask yourself how soon do you expect to be interviewing? I would say leave yourself 2 weeks to find a suit and get it tailored. So if you're not going to be interviewing for a month or so, keep exercising and see what happens with your body. If you just want to buy a cheap OTR sale suit then it's not so much of an issue but I am looking at it from the standpoint you may be buying a nioce suit you plan to use repeatedly at least through the job search process and maybe beyond.

Good luck! Maybe if you supply some pics, others here will be able to give recommendation on styling to fit your build.

EDIT: I forgot to mention sizing may vary from manufacturer to manufacturer so don't get hung up on a particular number. In 2006 threotically I went from a 40R to 42R which I can wear in many suit but brands manufactured in Italy that I have tried, such as Polo, Gucci, Brooks bros, I have opted for 44R because the shoulders felt snug on the 42's. You definitely don't want a suit you don't feel comfortable in. Personally, I place practicality ahead of appearance.

Burzum · May 9, 2008

I'm not an expert all I can suggest is...

Emphasize the vertical over the horizontal - I'm going to asume most of the weight is in the traditional weight gathering area for men (the stomach).

SB - pinstripe, point collar, if you use a bulky tie knot go to a slimmer one - Half Windsor, Pratt (Shelby) Knot or FIH. As said above stay away from pleats, falt front or just a single pleat if need be. Going to a larger collar size for breathing room and so it doesn't pinch the neck, or one of those sliding collars (?) (you probably did that anyway).

A good bespoke tailor should be able to do it all for you - but I expect you have more important things to spend your money on at this point in time.

Stay away from collar bars (you probably don't use them anyway).
Avoid cuffs on the trousers, again you probably don't wear them.
Stay away from DB always looks awful on larger guys or the big boned as some of us say.

Personal view - stick to 3 button notch lapel and when standing keep it buttoned (middle B). So that way people wont see any shirt rise or pant drop exposing the area your trying to hide. It should also hide the fact your tie is taking on a convex shape.

Although jumping from 46 to a 48 I don't think you would look really heavy. More like you just had a big christmas I guess.

Thats all I got...

dba · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by Burzum

Stay away from DB always looks awful on larger guys or the big boned as some of us say.

I don't have any problems with big guys in DBs as long as they are comfortable in it. I agree, they do accentuate the horizontal axis somewhat but personally I think they can look better on wider gentleman as the buttons are up front and on display instead of looking like they are trying to roll off to the side. Some guys are big and are accepting of their weight so would kind of give off the attitude "I am fine with who I am, deal with it." I can't tell from globetrotter's pic if that's a DB or not on my monitor, but he looks quite happy. I think height may be a bigger factor in selection of a DB suit anyway as the jacket can sometimes appear longer and could dwarf a person of limited stature.

Does anyone else have any thoughts on this? I'm 50/50 on whether I like DBs on myself. I am in the 5'8"-5'9" and 160 lb. range.

globetrotter · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by dba

I can't tell from globetrotter's pic if that's a DB or not on my monitor, but he looks quite happy. I think height may be a bigger factor in selection of a DB suit anyway as the jacket can sometimes appear longer and could dwarf a person of limited stature.

.

DB - I'm 5 4, and about 250 pounds in that picture. I like DB because I have pretty big shoulders, and I found DB to be flattering, but this is an issue that is hotly debated here. that's also a bespoke suit - no way in hell I could have found a DB suit that would fit me off the rack.

dba · May 9, 2008

^Well then I guess the vertical extension mind tricks of the DB worked as I would not have guessed you were only 5'4".

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