Suggestions and comments for a London Lounge Gun Club jacket

voxsartoria · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by Manton

To the original question, 3 roll 2, 3 open patch is the way to go.

I don't know about the 3 roll 2 for me...I tend to reserve that for my juvenile preppy wear, either fake (Borrelli) or real (Chipp). I think I'm going to save my 3 roll 2 bespoke action for an upcoming Naples trip in 2009, because I think 3/2 looks even better with more open quarters. On me, at least, I still feel that a true three button works better with the more closed SR quarters.

On top of that, I find that it ends up being a 3/2.5 after a bit of wear.

Originally Posted by Manton

As I recall, this stuff is like 650 g, so it can easily be done unlined. I have no idea what the benefit of that would be, though, except the knowledge in one's mind that it is neato to have unlined coats. If the tailor upcharges for unlined (as some do), then skip it.

I'm pretty sure that I'll be persuaded into a full lining, and yes, the "neato" aspect of seeing the more of the bones of the jacket is one of the things that appeals to me...sort of like a display back of a mechanical watch.

- B

John Ellis · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by dopey

I would actually like to discuss this very point with them, which is what I had in mind when suggesting they be pointed to this thread. They take what they do pretty seriously and it is a small craft business. They know more about what they make than I do so it worth getting their views on why their stuff is the way it is and what it is intended for.

I think they would be interested but I'm bound to say amidst all this dissing of Breanish you'd wonder why A&S ever made any jackets in it at all.I n my mind how long I've seen my acquaintance wearing his jacket and it has to be several years. When last I saw him which was earlier this year his jacket did not appear to be hanging in shreds on his body. In fact it looked no differen than the last time I saw him wearing it. As I said above these jackets are not going to be worn in sheep wrestling contests. No doubt the structure of the fabric brings some problems when it comes to the tailoring but this hardly amounts to a reason not use it. Sorry I'm not going to converted from love affair with the bunny fluff because some think it's not going to last for fifty years.

itsstillmatt · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I'm pretty sure that I'll be persuaded into a full lining, and yes, the "neato" aspect of seeing the more of the bones of the jacket is one of the things that appeals to me...sort of like a display back of a mechanical watch. - B
I recently saw a nice tweed jacket made up with minimal lining and unlined sleeves. it was definitely a success.

Concordia · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by John Ellis

I think they would be interested but I'm bound to say amidst all this dissing of Breanish you'd wonder why A&S ever made any jackets in it at all.I n my mind how long I've seen my acquaintance wearing his jacket and it has to be several years. When last I saw him which was earlier this year his jacket did not appear to be hanging in shreds on his body. In fact it looked no differen than the last time I saw him wearing it. As I said above these jackets are not going to be worn in sheep wrestling contests. No doubt the structure of the fabric brings some problems when it comes to the tailoring but this hardly amounts to a reason not use it. Sorry I'm not going to converted from love affair with the bunny fluff because some think it's not going to last for fifty years.

I just got one this winter, and agree with you completely. Yes, it gives. Yes, I might have to have someone take it in a bit after the first cleaning/pressing.

Who cares? I also like single-ply V-neck sweaters, but don't pretend they are the perfect solution to every clothing situation. A&S seem to have figured out how to tailor the stuff: that is one firm more than none, and more or less all I need.

There is also a length of gun check in my drawer waiting to be made up, and a bunch of other equally nasty tweeds already hanging up and ready for me to wear. They have a different application. Horses for courses.

Concordia · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by iammatt

I recently saw a nice tweed jacket made up with minimal lining and unlined sleeves. it was definitely a success.

I find this intriguing, but I do not know why. Perhaps it is the prospect of feeling virtuous as I go without the fripperies of satin. Or enjoy the quiet satisfaction of having my back scratched by something from Scotland every time I shift in my seat.

Manton · May 9, 2008

Aren't the problems associated with the Breanish in this thread simply inherent in all Shetlands? I had thought that these problems were both part of Shetland's charms, and a cost of doing business.

Or is Breanish somehow not as good as other Shetlands?

yachtie · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by Manton

Aren't the problems associated with the Breanish in this thread simply inherent in all Shetlands? I had thought that these problems were both part of Shetland's charms, and a cost of doing business.

Or is Breanish somehow not as good as other Shetlands?

The LL best of both seems much more beefy than the Breanish sample I saw at Chris's. It's a good deal softer as well (all lambswool). I really like Lovat quality.

dopey · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by Concordia

I find this intriguing, but I do not know why. Perhaps it is the prospect of feeling virtuous as I go without the fripperies of satin. Or enjoy the quiet satisfaction of having my back scratched by something from Scotland every time I shift in my seat.
Ask him, He's from Scotland.

6a00b8ea06ece0dece00c2251c31a2549d-500pi

dopey · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by yachtie

The LL best of both seems much more beefy than the Breanish sample I saw at Chris's. It's a good deal softer as well (all lambswool). I really like Lovat quality.
I don't think this is true. The Breanish tweeds are softer and spongier (a good thing).

Pariolino · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by dopey

Ask him, He's from Scotland.

Does he post, on the message boards?

Manton · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by yachtie

The LL best of both seems much more beefy than the Breanish sample I saw at Chris's. It's a good deal softer as well (all lambswool). I really like Lovat quality.

That not a Shetland, not even close. Breanish is a Shetland.

yachtie · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by Manton

That not a Shetland, not even close. Breanish is a Shetland.

So, a shetland is open woven and scratchy? What I saw wasn't soft nor spongy.

Manton · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by yachtie

So, a shetland is open woven and scratchy? What I saw wasn't soft nor spongy.

No, it's loose and open and soft. The loose weave and woollen yarns make it a little hairy, with stray fibers on the surface, but I would not call it scratchy. Certainly not scratchy like Harris or thornproof.

I think the LL Best of Both is just straight "tweed" no qualifier. If it is anything else, it is a cheviot.

Concordia · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by Manton

Aren't the problems associated with the Breanish in this thread simply inherent in all Shetlands? I had thought that these problems were both part of Shetland's charms, and a cost of doing business.

Or is Breanish somehow not as good as other Shetlands?

Breanish is even better than other Shetlands, for the reasons you cite.

itsstillmatt · May 9, 2008

Originally Posted by yachtie

So, a shetland is open woven and scratchy? What I saw wasn't soft nor spongy.
FWIW, here is a scan of relatively traditional shetland.

Suggestions and comments for a London Lounge Gun Club jacket

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