Crittenden - The Worlds Finest Hand Tailored Clothing

looks really nice but can't compare with Brioni bespoke I'll tell ya

First Jhane Barnes and now Critt Rawlings. This is exciting stuff, and hopefully will change perceptions out there that only the Italians can execute fine hand tailoring!!

Originally Posted by okdc

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Where would we this collection? I googled it and only came up with a small shop in Indianapolis. Any ideas? Thanks.

I think you will start to see the garment at most Oxxford stores.

can you treat us with some more eye candy though?

Originally Posted by tlfurbay

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I think you will start to see the garment at most Oxxford stores.

???? Are you saying Oxxford will sell a garment with better handwork for less money at their existing stores? That doesn't make sense.

Originally Posted by AMAR420

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looks really nice but can't compare with Brioni bespoke I'll tell ya

Really, have you seen the hand tailored coat or the casual soft coat collection? The hand tailored is hot off the press. The casual soft coat collection has been around for a few seasons.

The hand tailored collection has twice the hand work of Brioni. Heck, the long seams on the back of the sleeve are picked by hand!

Originally Posted by dopey

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???? Are you saying Oxxford will sell a garment with better handwork for less money at their existing stores? That doesn't make sense.

No, I am sorry you misunderstood me. I was referring to small independent stores.

Oxxford will freak when they see this coat!

Originally Posted by tlfurbay

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Really, have you seen the hand tailored coat or the casual soft coat collection? The hand tailored is hot off the press. The casual soft coat collection has been around for a few seasons.

The hand tailored collection has twice the hand work of Brioni. Heck, the long seams on the back of the sleeve are picked by hand!

Handwork doesn't inherently make the garment better. I'm not saying these are worthless (my only knowledge of the brand is through this thread), but just adding pickstitching and lapped seams to a coat won't change anything except make it more time consuming to alter.

Originally Posted by tlfurbay

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IMO fit it is the most important factor for a coat. You can have all of the hand work in the world but if it does not fit, it is not worth any price.

I agree with your comparison of fit to handwork, but I do no agree that fit is the most important factor.

The most important factors, in my opinion, are the basic design and aesthetics of a coat. Those compose the starting point, preferably in the context of a whole look.

Then, those aesthetics need to be applied individually to a human body using the best techniques of construction and fit that are possible at a price point.

Those techniques, at higher price points, will include human hands cutting, sewing, and knowledgably (both technically and aesthetically) assembling the garment and then fitting it to a real person at various stages of construction where adaptations are most successfully done.

Hand-sewing is only one element, and if used in a context that does not take advantage of its capabilities (which really is in a full bespoke garment, or something close to it, executed by someone trained in a bespoke environment) some, or even a lot, of the hand-sewing achieves only superfluous decoration at best, or devolves into a marketing gimmick at worst.

- B

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Originally Posted by AMAR420

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can you treat us with some more eye candy though?

Sorry for the extra pics...

Hmm...just looked at this photograph that you posted of a Crittenden blazer:

http://www.styleforum.net/attachment...5&d=1208376713

Here's a Solito:



I picked the Solito because (1) it does not have the best sewing in the world but (2) a Solito is an authentic, nearly entirely hand-sewn garment, long seams and all, produced in a living bespoke tradition for men used to wearing bespoke garments.

To me, there is no comparison: the sewing on one is far cruder than the sewing on the other. Just to pick one example: look at the edge stitching on the collar.

I do not mean to dampen your enthusiasm...if the design of the garments are good and one is getting some decorative or even meaningful structural hand-sewing at this price level, it will be a very interesting option for many people.

As for, "The World's Finest Hand Tailored Clothing," well...

- B

Originally Posted by RJman

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Damn. Makes me ashamed for being wordy.

- B

Originally Posted by tlfurbay

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Sorry for the extra pics...

lovely

Originally Posted by neyus

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hopefully will change perceptions out there that only the Italians can execute fine hand tailoring!!

Yes, some of the most exciting artisanal handwork I've seen (besides the Italians, British, and Japanese) have come from Vietnamese women and Mexican men. These folks, there is a gentleness to them . . .

Given the disdain for the low $ that a western artisan might make, I'm seeing Asia and elsewhere as where new handwork artisans will come from . . . aways from now before the focus is there, however.

- M