Zegna Questions: Overall Opinion, Taxonomy of Labels

[unbelragazzo]

It seems like Zegna is better regarded on SF than other big labels - is that the case? Personally I find some of their jackets a little over-constructed in the shoulders, but my experience is somewhat limited. Also, what is the taxonomy of their labels? Z Zegna is significantly lower quality than the main label, yes? Zegna Trofeo has something to do with some fabric competition they hold? Zegna Su Misura just means made to measure (trying to translate loosely from the Italian)? Or is it a higher level of craftsmanship than your standard Zegna suit? Thanks in advance!

 

[Nicola]

There is a whole thread covering the labels.

Trofeo is an award winning wool. The cloth made from that becomes Trofeo cloth.

Su Misura is MTM.

 

[nich]

A quick search would tell you all you need and more about zegna lines.

Quick Sum-up:
Couture (Formerly Naopoli): Best zegna has to offer. Very rare to see a couture suits on the internet as they are very high quality as far as zegna is concerned. Amazing fabrics and lots of hand stitching. There is an article floating around where someone deconstructed a zegna couture suit.

Mainline Zegna: Fully canvased. Considered good quality among most SF'ers. Generally accepted as the more conservative of the zegna lines. Fabrics in these suits range from decent to great. Overall very pricy for its quality.

Zegna Su Misura: MTM zegna suits. This is done by appointment not via the internet. The quality of these suits varies greatly as they are mtm. The price is about a 20% markup from mainline.

Z zegna: The fasion forward line. These suits are fused and are typically don't have amazing construction. The fabrics of these suits range from terrible to ok. The main draws to this line are the brand name, the trendy cuts, and the OTR fit. This line is not worth retail. Go to NM and find some for $300 with a good sale.

Trofeo, Trofeo Silk, Trofeo summer, 14 mill 14, 15 mill 15
These are all fabric lines that Zegna makes. 15 mill 15 is the highest quality fabric line that zegna makes. On the tag of each zegna suit, there is a letter or number marking the rated quality of the particular fabric. The old suits ranged A-Z. Now it is a number system instead. The key thing to know about this is that zenga sells this fabric to other designers and producers. It is very easy to get fooled on ebay by someone selling "Zegna Trofeo" when that is the fabric not the designer. When you see the label, you will see cloth somewhere on it if it isn't a true zenga suit. I have seen these fakes in NM and Filene's Basement before.

Another way to spot a fake Zegna. When you look at a close up of the tag, you will notice that the E in Ermenegildo and the g in Zegna are not block letters. You should see the top and bottom of the E extending to the left and a line coming off the top of the g.

 

[unbelragazzo]

Thanks so much, nich! Extremely helpful summary.

 

[__PG__]

When looking at mainline Zegna, note that they will have a few diferent models or 'blocks'. The Roma model has a stronger shoulder and it fits me like a box (i.e. not at all). The Milano model has a softer shoulder and is much slimmer through the body (and fits me very well).

This is the tag for the current mainline Milano model (or FIT MILA.)

This is the tag for the current mainline Roma model (or FIT ROM.)

The fit of these two suits is needless to say, chalk and cheese so be careful when you talk about the fit or construction of a 'Zegna' suit as it can vary greatly depending on what model you are looking at.

Re: the Trofeo fabric. I thrifted an old Zegna Trofeo suit earlier this year. Judging by the lable and the cut/style of the suit...it would be at least five years old. The fabric is amazing and is in amazing condition, as judging by other parts of the suit it was worn quite often.