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Zegna "MTM" experience

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by NBankston, Mar 30, 2005.

  1. Mr Checks

    Mr Checks Senior member

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    I hate to show my ignorance here, but as a relative newcomer to all this, I'm having difficulty distinguishing between: (A) MTM and,
    (B) a RTW suit that is altered by a tailor.
     


  2. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    I don't get it either.
    I always thought the MTM process was some sort of "homothetic" sizing from an existing pattern : i.e. the coat doesn't exist in 37", a MTM program will "create" a 37" from a 36" pattern extrapolating measures.
    Obviously, you should also be able make minor adjustment to coat's length, shoulder length on an existing pattern and feed the machine these measurements to cut the coat. This is not what an alteration tailor will be able to do, since reducing the length of a coat will unbalance button stance, pockets, waist pinching position ...etc.
    A machine however, should be able to do it, given you actually add or remove 1-2 inches from an existing RTW which should be enough to correct all issues you might have with a RTW suit if the cut already fitted you reasonably well.

    This is my understanding of MTM, bu I may be wrong.

    Luc
     


  3. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    Cut the word pattern; replace it with the word model. In MTM programs, you choose from a model (eg, 3-btn, 2-btn, lapel style), you select custom options (eg, ticket pocket, functional buttonholes on cuffs), you choose a fabric from a swatch book, your measurements are taken, and a suit is made like that. A pattern is not cut down from a size 38 to a size 37. A model is made to your measurements.
     


  4. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

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    Well, that's actually even better than I thought. But obviously from people on this forum, this may not be the case with every MTM programs out there...
    For instance, is Prada doing this ?

    Luc
     


  5. NBankston

    NBankston Member

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    Quote (johnapril @ Mar. 31 2005,07:38)
    "Cut the word pattern; replace it with the word model.  In MTM programs, you choose from a model (eg, 3-btn, 2-btn, lapel style), you select custom options (eg, ticket pocket, functional buttonholes on cuffs), you choose a fabric from a swatch book, your measurements are taken, and a suit is made like that.  A pattern is not cut down from a size 38 to a size 37.  A model is made to your measurements"

    I am very suspicious that this is the case with Zegna.  The label in my supposedly MTM jacket says 48.  The receipt states a 48 jacket.  I am not a 48.  I tried on the 48 (for the measurements) which needed to be altered significantly.  The tag in the pants says 46.  The receipt also says 46 pants.  I tried on the 46 (again for measurement purposes), these too required significant measurement modifications to fit.  The jacket and pants arrived separately, several days apart.  Why would this be the case if they were made together to my specifications?  And, finally, the turnaround was less then 4 weeks.  I figure I got their standard pattern with a few minor alterations.
     


  6. uppercase

    uppercase Senior member

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    If you're not happy, take it back.
    You'll either get your money back, an offer to make new suit or, if only minor alterations are needed to make you 100% happy, they will also do that.
    My first Zegna MTM was all wrong and they made me a completely new one.
    The new one was just right, much, much better than the first try.
    They want a satisfied customer.
     


  7. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    That's totally screwed up.  I'd return it and get your money back.

    If they refuse to set things right, I'll stop doing business with them.
     


  8. NBankston

    NBankston Member

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    I appreciate the moral support.  I will let you know how things turn out.
     


  9. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    That is completely unacceptable. There is no size tag on a MTM garment.
     


  10. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    Well, that's not exactly true.
     


  11. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    Originally Posted by zjpj83,Mar. 31 2005,11:37
    That is completely unacceptable. There is no size tag on a MTM garment.
    Well, that's not exactly true.
    Edit: I have never seen a size tag on any MTM garment that I have ever owned.
     


  12. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    I have an Oxxford MTM (MTM for someone else who opted not to pick it up, I gather. Luckily had almost precisely my own body measurements.). It had a size tag in it. Don't know if this is normal or not.
     


  13. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    I guess it varies from maker to maker, though I fail to see why a MTM garment should have a size tag (since what it really should read is "size 41.5")

    Can anyone who has Zegna MTM comment on Zegna specifically.
     


  14. mxb95

    mxb95 Active Member

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    I don't believe any of my Zegna MTM suits have sizes marked in them, but I will confirm this evening.
     


  15. newyorker

    newyorker Senior member

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    Agreed. And that is a subtle allure of MTM/bespoke. Rich people never have size tags on their clothes, indeed they should not know their size [​IMG] If you walk into a closet filled with clothes without size tags, you should get a very clear message. I'm not rich but still, I don't have size tags on my business shirts and business slacks. So many my theory is screwed up.
     


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