Zegna "MTM" experience

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by NBankston, Mar 30, 2005.

  1. NBankston

    NBankston Member

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    Ordered a suit through Zegna's MTM program at the Zegna boutique in Chicago. I am very disappointed. The fit is no better than RTW. I strongly suspect that they simply gave me a RTW 38 regular jacket and 30 waist RTW pants. This is not what I understood I was going to get. During the initial fitting, I donned a 38 jacket and 30 pants and had their best tailor take measurements from these. We agreed to bring the shoulders in, the waist in, decrease the overall length, etc. The jacket I received fits me exactly as I remember the original jacket fit. Perhaps the waist is slightly more tapered. Anyway, I am 100% certain that my alterations tailor could have gotten the same fit with RTW.
     


  2. bry2000

    bry2000 Senior member

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    You just highlighted why I have never done an MTM suit. I have always suspected that I would get no better fit than taking a RTW with major and expensive alterations.
     


  3. newyorker

    newyorker Senior member

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    This is truly a shame. One wished that WWChan visited more often, eh?
     


  4. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Senior member

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    For the price you probably paid, they should have gotten things right the first time. Since they didn't, they should make things right, either by making you a new suit that fits or refunding your money.

    You are not buying a fused RTW suit at some mid-level department store--you are buying a (relatively) high-end suit from a major Italian label. Why accept anything less than perfect service?
     


  5. NBankston

    NBankston Member

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    Yes, indeed.  I did also order a suit from WWChan when Patrick was in Chicago earlier in the month.  I am hoping for a much better result.  If not, I guess my next step is Chris Despos.
     


  6. newyorker

    newyorker Senior member

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    I think you'll be happy. I don't recall hearing anything negative about W.W.Chan in StyleForum....
     


  7. NBankston

    NBankston Member

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    You are not buying a fused RTW suit at some mid-level department store--you are buying a (relatively) high-end suit from a major Italian label. Why accept anything less than perfect service? [/quote]

    Good question. Partly the reason for my post. I was wondering if all one can expect from MTM is mixing and matching suit and pants? My other concern is that their alterations tailor will make matters worse, and I'll end up with something unwearable. (I have an excellent alternations tailor who can tidy things up a lot.) On the other hand, if I can expect more, I certainly will demand better when I pick up the suit.
     


  8. Patrick Bateman

    Patrick Bateman Senior member

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    Mixing and matching suit pants is not made to measure. I think we can all agree on that. They should be modifying the stock pattern so that the deficiencies of the OTR model are minimized, although--in the real world--those deficiencies probably won't be eliminated completely. To the experienced eye, a MTM suit may still have some minor, very minor fit issues, but they ought to be so minor as to go unnoticed by those who pay less attention to clothes.

    I think, by definition, if they are giving you an OTR jacket and pants, they are not giving you MTM, and therefore--at a minimum--they should not be charging you a MTM price.
     


  9. novalis

    novalis Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Perhaps it is not too late to insist that Zegna redo the suit or at the very least make adjustments to the jacket as you had originally specified.

    Theoretically, MTM should be a cut above RTW in terms of fabric selection, construction, fit and silhouette. While MTM is not at the same level as bespoke, it can be an excellent choice (just as RTW suffices for many fellows). The key is working with a knowledgeable tailor/specialist, communicating your specific requests (perhaps even writing them down) and holding them accountable to your order.

    I recently upgraded from RTW and have been very pleased with my initial MTM jacket from Brooks Bros/Martin Greenfield. I was a little uncertain about it how it would turn out but it came out almost exactly as I expected - actually probably better than I had expected. But then again I was working with a conscientious fellow who listened to what I wanted and made sure he communicated that to the Greenfield folks.

    If done well, I think MTM can be a satisfying experience.
     


  10. zjpj83

    zjpj83 Senior member

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    You should not have to go to an alterations tailor. Zegna will make it better until it fits you properly. Zegna is your alterations tailor.
     


  11. NBankston

    NBankston Member

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    Thanks for the advice. I too felt that I should be getting much more. I haven't picked the suit up yet as the sleeves are being shortened and the pants are being hemmed. I will certainly demand that Zegna fix it or remake it.
     


  12. MilanoStyle

    MilanoStyle Senior member

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    Yep. I do not do MTM for the same reason. If you have v shape torse with big chest with large drop on the rip cage, you need a suit jacket front pannel cut really slim around waist seam. I think MTM does not do this since they work from "model body". Therefore all it's doing is, they will take the RTW jacket that fits your body and alter the seams. Esentially what you are getting is RTW jacket that is already altered for you from the factory.
     


  13. Mr_Sweden

    Mr_Sweden Active Member

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    You can take in the coat front on a Zegna MTM. I had it done the last time I ordered.

    /Mr S
     


  14. johnapril

    johnapril Senior member

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    Too bad. I just received my second suit using Zegna's MTM program and it fits perfectly.
     


  15. Charley

    Charley Senior member

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    (NBankston @ Mar. 30 2005,18:32) Ordered a suit through Zegna's MTM program at the Zegna boutique in Chicago. Â I am very disappointed. Â The fit is no better than RTW. Â I strongly suspect that they simply gave me a RTW 38 regular jacket and 30 waist RTW pants. Â This is not what I understood I was going to get. Â During the initial fitting, I donned a 38 jacket and 30 pants and had their best tailor take measurements from these. Â We agreed to bring the shoulders in, the waist in, decrease the overall length, etc. Â The jacket I received fits me exactly as I remember the original jacket fit. Â Perhaps the waist is slightly more tapered. Â Anyway, I am 100% certain that my alterations tailor could have gotten the same fit with RTW.
    Too bad. Â I just received my second suit using Zegna's MTM program and it fits perfectly.
    Some of the problems / corrections are more difficult than others. Tightening the shoulders is one of the more difficult ones. It changes everything about the collar, lapels, sleeeves, etc. And, shortening the coat is a similar problem as it alters perceived button height, pocket placement, and vent length. All compounded by moving the waist around. I've got similar issues with fit - and in the same general size. Compounded by slightly wider hips that cause the vents to screw up. I believe that these MTM things can be "oversold" as to the capabilities to get the fit right when so many things are floating around. Some people are simply easier to fit (body more to the industrial model) than others. Going with the RTW in a line that is a close fit in the shoulders - then using the very good tailor to adjust - may get the better fit with less aggrivation. It does not allow two custom components - fabric selection and button stance. The only way I can see to get all of it (affordably) is the WW Chan route. And even then, you will be on pins and needles until it arrives. (What will that fabric look like when made into a whole suit vs. swatch?)
     


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